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BTD6 steering clutch removal


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I hurt my back about 3 weeks ago so have avoided clambering around the dozer. I'm going to have to pull the clutches anyway so will strip it down. I cant seem to find a part number or picture in the manuals I have. I will upload photos when I can just for future reference to others.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Nearly there ! Quite a lot of progress this week, winch refitted, both fenders and seat structure in place, just the fuel tank and battery’s to go on now, then service the engine and it’s good to go. I will be leaving the Bulldozer blade and fitting off it until it has had a good test drive, it really needs to be worked for a few hours. 
Then a coat of red paint and she should be good.

4B7FF353-AB3A-4BEE-849F-247F01A161B2.jpeg

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......hydralic winch .....I assumed   PTO driven     ""Pacific    Car and Foundry Company  ""       (Carco )  winch....at least you don't have the  veritable forest of   lever  controls on your left side  gaurd...

..those  grousers are as wide as they come,for the that size BTD   Crawler....

..that tractor started  life   in the '"Harvester   Industrial    Yellow''  colour,     Dave....  with differing decals to its red predecessor's.....and you intend to paint it red ????

that, Sir is bordering on blasphemy...nothing more or less......sort of like painting a really tidy old Farmall  M ...one still lacking a steel belt pulley, green.....:rolleyes:.......or  worse,  Belarus  white.....

...almost seems you have come under the spell of the ''talking mule''....who see's everything in a different 'light'...:ph34r:

...Oh well......sigh

Your friend,  Mike.....:)

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4 hours ago, mike newman said:

......hydralic winch .....I assumed   PTO driven     ""Pacific    Car and Foundry Company  ""       (Carco )  winch....at least you don't have the  veritable forest of   lever  controls on your left side  gaurd...

..those  grousers are as wide as they come,for the that size BTD   Crawler....

..that tractor started  life   in the '"Harvester   Industrial    Yellow''  colour,     Dave....  with differing decals to its red predecessor's.....and you intend to paint it red ????

that, Sir is bordering on blasphemy...nothing more or less......sort of like painting a really tidy old Farmall  M ...one still lacking a steel belt pulley, green.....:rolleyes:.......or  worse,  Belarus  white.....

...almost seems you have come under the spell of the ''talking mule''....who see's everything in a different 'light'...:ph34r:

...Oh well......sigh

Your friend,  Mike.....:)

Hi Mike

You are right of course this BTD6 was originally yellow, I don’t know who painted it red, I assume it was the original owner who was probably a Labour supporter !!!

I will give it some thought, but I don’t want people confusing it for a Cat, so I might go half way and paint it Orange ? …………….🤭

The winch is hydraulic but it is connected to the Hydraulic pump on the front of the tractor.

I thought those grousers were wider than my old TD6, and so they are.

Cheers

Dave

 

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3 hours ago, ray54 said:

From Mike's comment about paint, did the British paint early dozers (before 1958- 60 )red the same as USA? Or did they paint construction/industrial equipment yellow before that. 

My understanding is it was only the later BTD6 that were yellow, Mike will know for sure.

I can remember a family friend buying a new BTD6 and it was red, but not sure of the year, I was only a kid at the time.

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This machine has two 6v battery’s connected in series to give 12 volts, that is standard for this model BTD6. However the manual refers to the system as positive earth, but this one is set up for negative earth, and it looks like it has been that way forever !

Does anyone know if the later BTD6 were negative from the factory ? This machine was built in 1967.

Not that it really matters now, most 12V systems are negative earth anyway.

 

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That is a tricky subject Dave. Going back all the way to Ben Franklin (American Inventor) the labels put on the two posts of a battery were disputed by Scientists.... I realized back when I first started welding in industrial situations that all welder manufactures were not standard on polarity labels. Example: Reverse polarity means + stinger  by most modern standards which means flow from stinger to ground + to -  . In a battery power flows from - to + so some older welding machines used - stinger for reverse polarity. If you google "DC electricity positive negative controversy" you can find more intelligent explanations but the POINT IS that not all peoples have always called battery terminals by the same names. Your book and your machine might both be right?@Dave Mac

By the way I like that hydraulic winch. I don't have a winch on my 150 counter weight only but I do have an old crane boom with a hyd. winch on it. I'm thinking retrofit?

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My auto sparky said it was probably changed to negative earth years ago, he said the British manufacturers held on to + earth for some reason long after 12 V became the norm.

That winch is very heavy, I can’t lift any part of it, I had to move it with an engine crane. It is very powerful, it can lift the rear of the tractor off the ground no problem.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Starting to look like a real tractor again, spent a whole day spot welding new formers into the underside of the hood, they were almost rusted away. The mind boggles how that happens on the warmest pat of the tractor and no obvious water trap ??? The outer skin is ok ! 
The engine must have been operating on high detergent oil, because I took the rocker cover off to adjust the tappets and the inside of the engine is like new, no sludge no residue !! Amazing for a dirty diesel, and I know this engine has not been apart for at least 25 years, and maybe not since new.

 

 

FCB20D62-7507-45E4-BFEE-F4A313BF7DC3.jpeg

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  • 1 month later...

Well back on this project today after being away for a month. Engine oil change and filter. Oil change on the Simms injector pump. New fuel filter and water trap on the fuel tank. So nearly ready to light the fire. Anyone have an opinion on using easy start ?

An expert !!! Told me not to use Ether because it will damage pistons and rings, the one I use is CRC engine start that only has 25% Ether. Problem is that one of the glow plugs doesn’t work and they are not available anymore. So the can of easy start is almost essential starting cold.

 

16365226-DD0A-4702-98C5-768A0362B189.jpeg

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4 hours ago, Dave Mac said:

Problem is that one of the glow plugs doesn’t work and they are not available anymore.

If IIRC you can use Toyota ones.  Also IIRC needs a slight thread mod,  IIRc there was a post on this here - earlier.

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Thanks Ian, will look at that option.

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I have a little Ford V4 Industrial that doesn't start well after setter a few weeks. I have a squirt bottle with gasoline that works well on that. Cheaper than a can of spray. Maybe easier on motor? I haven't tried it on a diesel but I do not see why not. Maybe a little engine oil in the mix?

Let us know on the glow plug deal . I hope Ian's recollection works out. If nun work because one  is out you can jumper that one.

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8 hours ago, just Dave said:

I have a little Ford V4 Industrial that doesn't start well after setter a few weeks. I have a squirt bottle with gasoline that works well on that. Cheaper than a can of spray. Maybe easier on motor? I haven't tried it on a diesel but I do not see why not. Maybe a little engine oil in the mix?

Let us know on the glow plug deal . I hope Ian's recollection works out. If nun work because one  is out you can jumper that one.

Thanks Dave, the faulty one is already disconnected and it starts fine on 3 glow plugs with a little help from the can of engine start when it’s cold. It starts on 3 cyl and smokes until it warms up and the other cylinder joins the party….. then it runs very nicely. It starts fine again while it’s hot without an Ether fix !
I will probably go with the Toyota glow plug modification kit, just to make life easier.

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13 hours ago, just Dave said:

I have a little Ford V4 Industrial that doesn't start well after setter a few weeks. I have a squirt bottle with gasoline that works well on that. Cheaper than a can of spray. Maybe easier on motor? I haven't tried it on a diesel but I do not see why not. Maybe a little engine oil in the mix?

Let us know on the glow plug deal . I hope Ian's recollection works out. If nun work because one  is out you can jumper that one.

Straight petrol doesn't have a good reputation as an aid for starting diesels.

But for something different -  We have a Kelly and Lewis VEB watercooled 5 hp diesel on a bore.  It is the only one I've ever seen.  Cold starting aid is an insert in the intake tract.  One end is open, the other has a felt pad that restricts the intake.  For cold starts you soak the pad in half petrol, half diesel and insert that end in the intake.  It rattles a fair bit when it fires but it has been doing it since 1955 and hasn't been in a shop yet.

That is NOT a suggestion for anything but a VEB by the way!

Re the Toyota glow plugs - I have a hazy recollection that might have come from one of the people from Oz that post here - maybe the bloke from Dubbo.

Here is a start

And

https://waggatractorparts.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=product&task=show&cid=1427&name=gpk4407&Itemid=&category_pathway=215

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Running today at last, started and ran well. Steering clutches and brakes working fine.🤠 no real issues at this stage, but I notice an exhaust leak from a hole in the bottom of the manifold, anyone have success welding a cast manifold ?

3C99B751-911E-4201-A8CA-294E0742E9EC.jpeg

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Thanks guys for your advice re welding the manifold. Well I decided to take the manifold off and take it to a local tractor workshop. It had two holes rusted out at the lowest points, obviously caused by years of sitting outside. When they were cleaned out they were about the size of a finger. The mechanics preheated the manifold and brazed two patches, and so far it worked out fine. I refitted it this afternoon and ran the engine until it got hot, no leaks, and it looks fine. Luckily the rest of the manifold is in good shape, no cracks and doesn’t appear to be thin anywhere else.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Now that the steering clutch issue is over (for now) I have been thinking about the huge number of hours required to complete this task and what I could have done to make it easier and faster.  I am not getting any younger and I know it now takes me longer to do anything, but I have had a lifetime of experience as an Engineer working on everything from Helicopters to motorcycles. ( no trains ) The biggest job is removing all the metal to get to the clutches.

Just recently I was looking at some old photos of new International tractors including the TD6  being assembled new in New Zealand, and I noticed the seat box section, guards and fuel tank were assembled as a unit before being fitted. So I wondered why I didn’t try removing and installing it as a unit, certainly a whole lot less bolts to remove. I  guess the weight factor could be an issue, but any front end loader or good hoist would work.  Hope I don’t have to try it, but it may help someone else who is facing this job.

I would be interested in any comments, maybe others already have this sorted.

Dave

 

 

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