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BTD6 steering clutch removal


Dave Mac
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15 hours ago, Dave Mac said:

It’s a 12v trickle charger, don’t use one of the modern ones that cycle. It only needs about 1.5 amps but constant. I guess you  could use a 12v battery with a variable charger to keep it charged. Positive lead is attached to the component being cleaned and negative to the anodes. Hope this is helpful.

Thanks I think I'll try it.   

About the Teflon tape , it doesn't stick like squeeze products. Covers can go off and on with reuse.  No mess no goo in your bolt holes

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I have put 150 amp DC from my welder into a larger electrolysis tank before. Talk about boiling off the rust!  I was very careful with it though. A  manual 12 volt charger overnight will work just fine. You can even use an automatic charger if you put a 12 volt battery and line between it and the tank. I have used washing soda for an electrolyte.  I have even heard of people doing a whole trailer by digging a shallow pit, lining it with plastic,  submerging the trailer frame and using a DC welder.  Remember it is a line of sight process and will not get inside holes or tubes unless you put an electrode in them.

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23 hours ago, Rawleigh99 said:

very careful with it though.

Funny you mention that.    I did a spring in a peanut jar yesterday  and  then     I did a second one with same kind of jar but this one had a paper label still on it  It MELTED.   Today I'm going bigger I have a pinion brg adjuster in a dish pan. In the bigger pan it is much cooler but also works slower.  I cranked up to 10 amp to speed up

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Be sure to remove anything alloy from a part before putting it in the bath ! I left an alloy grease nipple and it wasn’t recognisable when I pulled it out next morning. 😟 

 

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  • 4 months later...

Finally two overhauled BTD6 steering clutches ready to install. This took me much longer than planned mainly because of work priority’s and a Farmall M dragged me away from it for longer than it should have. 

However good things take time, and there is no real hurry, looking forward to getting this old girl, turning tracks again soon.

4737E6B1-A9F6-423C-AADC-7C26F789CCB8.jpeg

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Good job. I just got my 150B back together a week or so ago, steering and engine clutch. I had a gear lube leak on one side so I unbolted and retracted the stub shaft and swapped out the seal. On the second time together I unscrewed the bearing adjuster 2 turns then bolted the flange of it then turned adjuster back to the same notch. That got it. The bearing rode near the outside edge of the bore on that side. ....I hope you have a warm spot to put it back together

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Warm spot is not a problem this time of year, it is mid summer here in NZ, and machine is in a shed, so should be good 🤠

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On 1/3/2022 at 5:26 PM, Dave Mac said:

Warm spot is not a problem this time of year, it is mid summer here in NZ, and machine is in a shed, so should be good 🤠

You'll need a shady spot to work in. Here in southern Australia we're being hit with summer heat and humidity! 

I'm following your restoration of this British built crawler with interest.

Regards from Michael H.🔧 Australia

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  • 2 weeks later...

One clutch installed today, half way there. 
Interesting to note that unlike the TD6 the British built BTD6 has a dowel that fits in the steering clutch drum to mate with the sprocket drive plate so no need to mark the position, it only fits in one position.

D3F54634-D231-4BB9-BD7A-2A5BC2926DDC.jpeg

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That is interesting.... I didn't see why they used the irregular bolt pattern in the first place .....no high speed balance .....no timing to con ceder an evenly spaced bolt circle would have been fine there.. I just finished my 150 clutches..I used a thin wire to hold my stub shaft retainer ring bolts while I started them with the tips of two fingers..  looks like the BTD6 is about the same deal in the back end.    Looking good   It looks warm    I'm shoveling snow today

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Yes I think the British must have decided to redesign a few things to make it idiot proof, knowing that some owners will be doing DIY maintenance. The other big change in those BTD6 clutches is they don’t have the short shaft retainer bolts. Which makes life much easier. Instead the shaft has a collar that runs against a thrust bearing that keeps the splined end located in the bevel gear, once the bevel bearing retainer is bolted in place. Other than that I think the rest of the clutch assembly is the same as the TD6.

It is warm 86F here today, clear and calm.

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Hi. I did this on a btd6 and got the clutches back in but have now just found oil leaking from the final drive transmission  via the brake rods. Any ideas on how to fix this? Sorry to high jack the post. Gutted after a long refurb process... 

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Hi Dfb

Sorry to hear of your oil leak, I would be gutted to if that happened after all that work.

I guess if you haven’t done anything with the outboard sprocket drive, it is unlikely the oil will be leaking past that shaft seal. So it is most likely coming from the inboard bevel bearing retainer shaft seal, or perhaps the big O ring. I can see how the O ring could get damaged on installation. Unfortunately you need to remove the clutch to replace the seal but you should be able to replace the O ring by moving the retainer and shaft towards the drum I think.
Is the oil leaking into both clutches ? Did you do anything else at that end or was it just the clutches.

Hope this is helpful.

Cheers Dave

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9 hours ago, Dfb220 said:

Any ideas on how to fix this?

Does the 6 have a threaded brg. adjuster where the big ring seals to the bevel gear support bearing.  If so I found it helpful to back it out when bolting on the flange then screw the adjuster back in to the preset mark . This allowed the big O ring to seat in a good seal to the bearing bore, outer bearing race and end of adjuster.

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Yes the 6 does have an adjustable bevel gear bearing preload ring, that is locked by two bolts that are close together holding a lock plate. You need to be careful with that because those rings control the preload on the bearing and the bevel and pinion gear backlash. In fact my service manual warns not to remove those bolts.

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My 150/BTD9 book recommends bolting the adjusters on without seals before you put the clutches in. At this point you can check your bevel gear backlash and adjust if needed. Now they can be removed and assembled in the normal way. I kept track of exactly which adjustment notch I was in on the side that needed special attention to get the big O ring seated correctly. I tried it without backing off the adjuster and I ended up pinching the O ring  ........so it leaked gear lube. I had to slide the stub shaft back in so I could change the O ring go back with the modified tech-niche of backing off the adjuster before bolting down it's flange. I am glad I put the gear oil in to check for leaks before I put the big cover plate back on .

On 1/16/2022 at 12:35 AM, Dfb220 said:

found oil leaking from the final drive transmission  via the brake rods

Are the brake rods entering at the bottom of the steer clutch cavity on your machine? Are you leaking out of the final drive(one on each track)or the rear end bevel gears(one set in the middle) My brake rods come from the engine clutch cavity back down tunnels on each side of the transmission

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I'm still learning a bit with this machine so technical knowledge is still getting there with the comments. The oil is leaking down both brake shift tunnels when running. So not entering the clutch housing through the o ring I believe. I cant find anything in my manuals about the part/ seal between the brake rods and the drive. I'll take some photos in the weekend and have a further dig around

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On 1/20/2022 at 7:50 PM, Dfb220 said:

I'm still learning a bit with this machine so technical knowledge is still getting there with the comments. The oil is leaking down both brake shift tunnels when running. So not entering the clutch housing through the o ring I believe. I cant find anything in my manuals about the part/ seal between the brake rods and the drive. I'll take some photos in the weekend and have a further dig around

Hi Dfb

just wondering how you are getting on with your oil leak ? I installed the other steering clutch in the BTD6 today and I had a good look around at the brake rods/ tunnels and I can’t imagine how you could have transmission oil in there unless there is a leak somehow from the gearbox into the tunnels. If the clutch O rings were leaking there is no way the leak can fill the steering clutch cavity’s up to the brake rod level. Both plates on the bottom of the casting have drain holes to prevent that from happening ? In any event it would have to be a lot of oil.

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On 1/20/2022 at 12:50 AM, Dfb220 said:

I cant find anything in my manuals about the part/ seal between the brake rods and the drive

There is no seal because there is no penetration into the brake rod tunnels from an oil cavity

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  • 3 weeks later...

Another step forward today, steering clutches adjusted and working fine. I made an effort to seal the inspection covers, bolts etc; using anaerobic gasket sealer, I think part of the reason the clutch was seized is because rain water was obviously dripping on the clutches, So we will see !

C3EA48A1-9238-46F3-B0F1-578A0A5D7FF4.jpeg

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On 1/20/2022 at 7:50 PM, Dfb220 said:

I'm still learning a bit with this machine so technical knowledge is still getting there with the comments. The oil is leaking down both brake shift tunnels when running. So not entering the clutch housing through the o ring I believe. I cant find anything in my manuals about the part/ seal between the brake rods and the drive. I'll take some photos in the weekend and have a further dig around

Hi DFB

You have probably found the reason for your oil leak by now, but I thought I would let you know that those brake rod tunnels extend forward as far as the engine clutch area. and it is open to that area, because it houses the brake bell cranks on each side. So if you have an oil leak from the gearbox into the clutch housing, it will find its way down those tunnels and into the steering clutch bays. I only discovered this yesterday when I was greasing the clutch mechanism.  The opening is large and any oil would drain freely.

Hope this is helpful 

Cheers

Dave

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