Jump to content

BTD6 steering clutch removal


Recommended Posts

Well some good news on this project today, the dreaded drive shaft bolts that are awful to get at don’t exist on this tractor. The later model BTD6 must have had an upgrade, and now it has a simple dogged driveshaft that simply slides out of the differential side and back towards the clutch to clear the housing. This tractor was built in 1967 serial no 20015, I don’t know when they changed it but my manual still refers to the flange and those dreaded bolts. So no flange and no bolts, happy days !  
See photo.7E8666E9-2A4E-4D97-9787-343ECEE6DCA9.thumb.jpeg.afc37e408e5e1f75391b13a5fee21db8.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I decided not to fit those threaded stock bolts, instead I took 3 new HT bolts to the engineers and had them extend the thread. They are now installed in the hub and run up tight, and the clutch is disengaged.  I am pleased I did because one of them was tight all the way, and not sure how the welded on nut would have survived. Thanks Mike !  There is still not a lot of room to get the unit out, but it was late in the day and I was lifting it on a bit of an angle, will have another shot tomorrow and make sure it is level as it comes out. Hopefully !!

Cheers

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First clutch out today, makes a difference if you lift it slightly higher at the spline end, came out easy. Posted a photo 8DC27B84-A2EE-4742-9EB4-DF86110F18B5.jpeg.0d04edd6223d5b97a52670815a2f5270.jpegso you can see that the later BTD6 is easier because there is no shaft coupling bolts to skin your knuckles on. This side should come apart ok because it is not seized. Hope this is helpful.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Dave Mac said:

First clutch out today, makes a difference if you lift it slightly higher at the spline end, came out easy. Posted a photo 8DC27B84-A2EE-4742-9EB4-DF86110F18B5.jpeg.0d04edd6223d5b97a52670815a2f5270.jpegso you can see that the later BTD6 is easier because there is no shaft coupling bolts to skin your knuckles on. This side should come apart ok because it is not seized. Hope this is helpful.

if it is of any help, Dave....once disassembled......I used    a disc grinder , with the  paper  disc    to run the rust off the steel plates......a not to difficult job, but every so often  the paper disc would    'disc-intergrate'......got them pretty good , though.....

Did one (BTD6)   for a mate...spent a lot of time on the frozen  steel  disc's...and he never used it for eighteen months or so...It stuck again...and I had told him to slip the clutchs  from time to time...even just whilst sitting in the shed....he could have sliiped the clutches enough to dry out any vestige of moisture therein.....I am not doing that one again....!!!

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Mike I have got some of those paper discs, good plan I was wondering how to clean them up. So far everything including the bearings, brake linings etc are in good condition. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Struck a bit of a snag today pulling the clutch apart. The service manual says you should be able to remove the steering clutch hub plate and all the discs without removing the shaft, and completely dismantling the unit. The instructions are to remove the the three long threaded bolts we installed in the hub plate and put them in the three threaded holes in the pressure plate, and then put the unit in a press and slide a tube over the shaft and press the hub  while removing the three hub plate securing bolts. Have done all that but the hub plate won’t come off ? The discs seem to be moving so they are not stuck but the hub plate moves with them. This clutch was not seized, it was working ok, but I thought it best to check and clean anyway while it is all apart. I guess it could still be rusted somewhere !
Any thoughts/help gratefully accepted.

Cheers Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Holly Smoke ! That clutch was a pain to pull apart, and it is the good one that was still working o.k. Still I am pleased I pulled it, it was going to cause problems eventually.

The plates were ok but the hub plate was rusted to the hub big time, in the end I had to completely dismantle the unit and persuade the hub to let go with a big hammer and lots of WD40, while securing it in a press so I didn’t get attacked by that coil spring.

Good news is that nothing is broken, and it looks like a good clean up and we are in business.

Not looking forward to the next one because it is frozen solid !98932A5C-CA2E-465D-946B-D5DB8ABA40ED.jpeg.2575ca58190ee55ec4cb197dec61721b.jpeg

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

...good one Dave.....I figured that would be the issue...thus  perseverance   was the answer ....

..the rust can cause much grief......I am battling with a complete final drive (Hyundai 210  Excavator...)......After undoing  15/16th head size  x  30 studs holding the assembly on to the excavator "chassis....  all by 3/4 '' power bar and five feet of pipe.....this because the ''Ryobi  rattle gun wouldn't budge them.....'and two  hours later ...haven't budged that final  at all....The excavator. late model ,very tidy...brought by the Rainbow Station at 6000  hrs....has done considerable time at the Blenheim    Saltworks...only found this out few days gone.....so tomorrow its oxy/acetylene/ porta -power etc ....

Your driving discs look ok from the picture...that's all good...in the good old days...before the Socialist's destroyed the New Zealand Forest Service...we ran BTD8  's...rootraking etc.....As the discs   wore...fitted an extra one or two in....which kept the show on the road...

...and Dave.....a friendly comment....just be carefull with your little play on words there....""cause problems down the track''...You see....there are Canadian's on this fine RP site, and they could get very confused as to the meaning of that comment...OK ??...:D:rolleyes:

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Mike

Thanks for the heads up on the word play, I have changed it. 
I appreciate your advice and support, good value !
I wonder if sealing those steering clutch compartments would help keep water out, I was thinking say a rubber grommet or something in the drain hole, and remove it from time to time to let any accumulated condensation out. I know part of the reason the other clutch is seized is because someone left a brake inspection cover bolt out and the gasket was mostly not there, so rain water would have been dripping into the clutch every time it rained.

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Cleaning up these clutches is a huge job, most of them have rusty splines in the hub and drum. I thought I would try a home made electrolysis bath on the hub, and wow look at the rust coming off. Should be clean by morning without metal loss.

A2D1A58C-0F53-414A-86C0-9860B5930E61.thumb.jpeg.793575ac94bbe28f2791194a0f568f9f.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

No floods here Mike we are all good. Clutch is all cleaned up ready to install, I put a new drum bearing in, the old one had a hairline crack in the inner race. So I will replace both of them.

Slow progress at the moment, got busy at work but no worries, I want to have it going in the spring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Just about ready to refit steering clutches. I note there is a gasket under the cover plate called a main frame cover gasket, I can make a new one but it is quite big and time consuming, I was wondering what everyone else is doing. I don’t think I can buy a new one, but I guess the use of liquid RTV gasket might be ok here ?

your thoughts/ experiences would be good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is an anaerobic gasket maker that will bridge a 50 thou gap that John Deere uses on their final drives instead of a gasket.  There is a spray on primer that accelerates it, but i don't think this is absolutely necessary.  The nice thing about the anaerobic sealer is they don't skin over like RTV while you are getting the part in position.  They don't cure until the oxygen is removed when the parts go together.  Also the excess squeeze out does not cure so it is easy to clean up.  I think permatex and Locktite both make it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

46 minutes ago, Rawleigh99 said:

There is an anaerobic gasket maker that will bridge a 50 thou gap that John Deere uses on their final drives instead of a gasket.  There is a spray on primer that accelerates it, but i don't think this is absolutely necessary.  The nice thing about the anaerobic sealer is they don't skin over like RTV while you are getting the part in position.  They don't cure until the oxygen is removed when the parts go together.  Also the excess squeeze out does not cure so it is easy to clean up.  I think permatex and Locktite both make it.

Thanks Rawleigh that sounds like me, I will see if i can get some. Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Rawleigh99 said:

There is an anaerobic gasket maker that will bridge a 50 thou gap that John Deere uses on their final drives instead of a gasket.  There is a spray on primer that accelerates it, but i don't think this is absolutely necessary.  The nice thing about the anaerobic sealer is they don't skin over like RTV while you are getting the part in position.  They don't cure until the oxygen is removed when the parts go together.  Also the excess squeeze out does not cure so it is easy to clean up.  I think permatex and Locktite both make it.

The stuff that Deere sells is now just packaged locite brand. They stopped putting rtv and a bunch of other stuff in Deere packaging. My local Deere dealer has loads of it on the shelf. I think it’s called machined surface gasket maker or some such. I know Detroit Diesel used to have their own brand of anaerobic gasket too. I saw it pretty recently as well. A heavy truck dealer or parts place  could probably fix you up as well if you decide that stuff would work. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Dirt_Floor_Poor said:

The stuff that Deere sells is now just packaged locite brand. They stopped putting rtv and a bunch of other stuff in Deere packaging. My local Deere dealer has loads of it on the shelf. I think it’s called machined surface gasket maker or some such. I know Detroit Diesel used to have their own brand of anaerobic gasket too. I saw it pretty recently as well. A heavy truck dealer or parts place  could probably fix you up as well if you decide that stuff would work. 

Thankyou I have done some checking and Permatex anaerobic gasket maker is available locally, so we will give that a shot.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/10/2021 at 3:29 PM, Dave Mac said:

Just about ready to refit steering clutches. I note there is a gasket under the cover plate called a main frame cover gasket, I can make a new one but it is quite big and time consuming, I was wondering what everyone else is doing. I don’t think I can buy a new one, but I guess the use of liquid RTV gasket might be ok here ?

your thoughts/ experiences would be good.

Expanded Teflon is roll of gasket material in various diameters. Length depends on roll size. Some has sticky peal off. It can be over lapped at corners and joints. We used it on tank covers turbine covers things like that at a power plant. I will be using it on my IH 150B when I put my cover back on. Any industrial supply should have bearing houses as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, just Dave said:

I am interested in the electrolysis rust removal. What was your power source?

It’s a 12v trickle charger, don’t use one of the modern ones that cycle. It only needs about 1.5 amps but constant. I guess you  could use a 12v battery with a variable charger to keep it charged. Positive lead is attached to the component being cleaned and negative to the anodes. Hope this is helpful.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...