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My BTD6 has a seized RH steering clutch. I have tried to free it with WD40 and driving it with that clutch lever right back, even tried pushing up against a tree but it won’t let go. I have watched the videos on you tube, and talked with a local who has removed one and he said it is an awful job and to avoid it at all cost !  Would appreciate some advice, is it really that difficult to get out ? Any pointers to make it a bit easier would be appreciated, I am not looking forward to that job !!!

I guess getting it out is not the only challenge, freeing it up might be another nightmare. This dozer sat outside for ten years without running, I am probably lucky it is only the one clutch.

 

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Dave, it's not the worse job in the world, it is time consuming, do you have the service manual for the tractor? It walks you through the procedure. It helps if you have small hands. 

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Dave, I would say if you have not done one before a manual would be handy - TD 6 - BTD 6 steering clutches much the same. There are a few things to watch out for. Prep work - seat - tank - battery - fuel lines - what ever else that will make access easer. Once top cover off a piece of heavy cardboard - ply to cover crown wheel opening. Mark flange to final drive pinion - bolts are off set - only line up in one position. The bottom pivot for throw out bearing shaft can be a pain - I like to drive machine up on to timbers to give a bit more wriggle room under tractor. You will need to make plates to compress spring - size of plates are in manual - good floor crane or lifting point above clutch being removed. It can be a very tight fit lifting clutch out - I have used a die grinder to take a bit out of the casing to squeeze it out. Once out a small press to compress spring to remove bolts - how easy - hard to take apart you will soon find out - ten years is a long time. One good side of the job is new parts are available - tractor parts.com - General Gear and Machinery - very help full crowd to deal with - have used them over the years. Very brief and am sure I have missed out a lot. Get your hands on a manual and have a good read  - help full if you have small hands - I see you mentioned your BTD 6 had under 2000 hrs - but I would be of the mind to do the other side as well. Just take care compressing spring when taking clutch apart.

       

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Check General Gears website for downloadable manuals on the clutches.  They sell clutch parts and usually have manuals or excerpts from manuals about clutch removal and repair on the bottom of the page for each model dozer.  Down load them and print.

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I don’t know what happened to my replies to the above posts, somehow they disappeared ? Anyway thanks to all of you for your advice, I have a BTD6 workshop and parts manual, and smallish hands so the next job will be that seized steering clutch, as soon as I have sorted the track adjusters.

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On 3/13/2021 at 12:11 AM, BTD6NZ said:

Dave, I would say if you have not done one before a manual would be handy - TD 6 - BTD 6 steering clutches much the same. There are a few things to watch out for. Prep work - seat - tank - battery - fuel lines - what ever else that will make access easer. Once top cover off a piece of heavy cardboard - ply to cover crown wheel opening. Mark flange to final drive pinion - bolts are off set - only line up in one position. The bottom pivot for throw out bearing shaft can be a pain - I like to drive machine up on to timbers to give a bit more wriggle room under tractor. You will need to make plates to compress spring - size of plates are in manual - good floor crane or lifting point above clutch being removed. It can be a very tight fit lifting clutch out - I have used a die grinder to take a bit out of the casing to squeeze it out. Once out a small press to compress spring to remove bolts - how easy - hard to take apart you will soon find out - ten years is a long time. One good side of the job is new parts are available - tractor parts.com - General Gear and Machinery - very help full crowd to deal with - have used them over the years. Very brief and am sure I have missed out a lot. Get your hands on a manual and have a good read  - help full if you have small hands - I see you mentioned your BTD 6 had under 2000 hrs - but I would be of the mind to do the other side as well. Just take care compressing spring when taking clutch apart.

       

I have done an internet search for BTD-6 Service Manuals and have found a place in Britain called AGRIMANUALS.COM who specialize in manuals for various British built tractors. I have bought books from them and they happily posted them to Australia. 

The British built BTD-6 was different from the US built TD-6 especially in the design of the engine. The BTD-6 had several updates during its producton and it's important to know at what serial numbers these changes occured.

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 none the less   .......both are SOB's   to remove the clutches....and when you remove those little row of studs around the clutch assembly....(the lower ones by brail...)  note carefully  the assembly sequence......!!!  There is a trap for young players right there.....

Mike

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Guys

Well I just got back to my BTD6 today after three weeks away, I have almost got the top cover off so I can remove the clutches, but I ran into a snag that someone might be able to help with. I have all the bolts removed and the Clutch control rod pivots but there are two dowels one on each outside edge that are about 1/2” threaded. See photo.

I have never seen this type of dowel before, there is nothing in the maintenance manual but they are called dowels in the parts manual.

I guess I need to get a nut to fit and tighten it so it pulls the dowel out ? They are both stopping the cover from coming off at this stage.

6CA02785-598F-48C8-95CA-0C2BA393D29F.jpeg

08D40310-9AFE-4FC4-BE89-D64A45F2EAA0.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

The manual calls for three 7/16 UNC bolts 2-5/8” long into the tapped holes in the steering clutch hub plate, and run them up tight to compress the clutch spring. Problem is I can’t get 7/16 UNC bolts that long that are threaded all the way. 
Is it necessary to compress the spring to get the clutch out of the tractor, and if so is there another way to achieve this ?

Dave

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1 hour ago, Dave Mac said:

The manual calls for three 7/16 UNC bolts 2-5/8” long into the tapped holes in the steering clutch hub plate, and run them up tight to compress the clutch spring. Problem is I can’t get 7/16 UNC bolts that long that are threaded all the way. 
Is it necessary to compress the spring to get the clutch out of the tractor, and if so is there another way to achieve this ?

Dave

Dave....and remember , note carefully the way those parts come out...after those studs are removed.....Harvester   set a little trap for the unwary.....upon assembly ...

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4 hours ago, mike newman said:

....and remember , note carefully the way those parts come out...after those studs are removed.....Harvester   set a little trap for the unwary.....upon assembly ...

Dave.....note the bottom line on my ''site thingy''  sigh

,,,so I will start again.....Those studs you mentioned are necessary...trust me....it is a prick of a job even  when all goes well.....I have a good old set of stocks and dies etc...but seemed to ''gall'' the threads a bit.....making those 7/16th  studs long enough...(HT)...so got the local machine shop to run some HT stock down...this did the job ..no worries..

You need hands the size of a ten year old kid...but with the squeeze of  a Socialist Finance Minister.....to battle those studs out...some you can barely see...

(Ok..now read the top line ....:))

Hope this helps

Mike

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Thanks Mike I have tried to extend the thread with a die, but as you say it doesn’t work too good. I will take the bolts to a machine shop and see if they can do it. Thanks for the warning on the IH trap, I will mark and photograph every step along the way.

Cheers

Dave

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13 minutes ago, busted knuckles said:

can't you buy a piece of all thread and cut it to length with a nut welded on it?

...I am sure you can.....bk......but most of the threaded bar you buy is usually not very high tensile....and unless you could be sure you are getting  the ''good stuff''...it is far more simple to thread a high tensile bolt, down to the specific length required

The simple act of welding a nut on a piece of threaded bar...further diminish's the inherent  strength of the bar...

Those clutch's   are SOB's   to remove without have a compression stud break off   half way through the act......

Mike

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