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Just joined up from New Zealand. I hope I am in the right forum ? I have a British Built BTD6 that was sold new in NZ in 1967 it is Serial No 20015. At the moment it is in the workshop for a birthday and a general tidy up, repaint etc. It is a pure Diesel with glow plugs for starting other than that it is very similar to the old TD6 petrol start i had about 20years ago.

It hasn't been used much for the last ten years or so, and one steering clutch is seized so it will have to come out, and one track adjuster is broken. The threaded shaft has snapped ! On top of that both adjusters are seized to the point that I can't get the lock nut to move. Does anyone have a good solution to the broken shaft, and any magic solution to free up the adjusters. I remember having this issue with the TD6 and as a temporary fix I fitted a sleeve over the thread to keep the track tight.

Other than that the Dozer is in good condition, it starts and runs well, it has good quick release blade, and a hydraulic rear mounted winch, plus a full bush cab etc. The hour meter still works and it shows 1,800hrs.

Cheers

Dave Mac

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I couldn't move the track adjusters on my TD-14 when I got it, so I had an open ended wrench made with 2" receptacle on the other end so I could put a pipe in it.  I then laid the pipe on the drawbar of my 9N Ford & let the hydraulics do the work.  I was able to free them up enough to eliminate the hydraulic boost.  On my TD-14A both adjusters stripped & slammed back as far as they would go so I left them & fabricated spacers to keep the idle wheels tight.

Vic

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Neighbour fabs some hydraulic adjusters on all the machines he owns, might had to cut off the rod a couple inches sticking out of the nut and using an inside pipe diameter to just slip over the hex, the other would bolt to the idler bracket, grease and extend the ram

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Thanks guys, I like the idea of fitting a hydraulic adjuster set up. I wonder if anyone knows what system could be adapted to fit. I think some of the newer dozers had a grease operated hydraulic adjuster. Could be a really good mod.

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Dave, I have these on my TD6-62 and my TD9B. Lot's of heat needed to get the threaded adjusters to move, I had to get the lock nut cherry red to get the lock nut to move. These Hydraulic track adjusters are from Henderson Mfg. Texas, they no longer make them for the TD6/TD9, I have a neighbor that made a set out of track bushings.

IH TD6 Hydraulic track adjuster-Henderson.jpg

IH TD9 Hydraulic track adjuster-Henderson.jpg

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Hi Louie, thanks for the photos that gives me an idea on how they are fitted, so I really only need to find a suitable hydraulic cylinder.

Does anyone know what the thread on the adjuster rod is, and what size is the lock nut ?

 

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On 3/9/2021 at 10:46 AM, Dave Mac said:

and one track adjuster is broken. The threaded shaft has snapped

On a TD 6 if that happens you need to check how much flap there is in the slides for the front idler.  And if you do a better adjuster screw and they're flapping you can break the recoil spring retaining bolts and/or the studs holding the front of the recoil assembly.

 

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Hi Ian

I wondered about that front idler on the slide, I noticed the top of the slide is a bit knocked about on the outside edge behind the idler,I better check how much movement there is. The dozer was being used on a steep property that had some quite big rocks partly buried so the track gear was getting a hard time when the adjuster broke. Thanks for the advice.

 

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Hi Mike

I too am on the mainland, l live just South of Mosgiel at East Taieri. 
Sounds like you have a wealth of experience with old tractors, wow 30 projects ! A bit mind blowing. I too have been skinning my knuckles

working  on old tractors for many years, it’s a bit of an addiction. So far I restored a petrol Fordson, a diesel Fordson major, a TD6 and now a BTD6. Always learning !

Cheers

Dave

 

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Managed to get both adjuster lock nuts released with some heat and brute force, and the threads are good on the adjuster. However the thread inside the retainer on one side is stripped, to the point where you can pull the adjuster screw in and out, unfortunately this is on the side that is not broken. It has obviously been like that for a long time and the lock nut has been keeping the track adjusted simply by butting up against the track spring guide.  I guess the only real fix is to remove the retainer and repair it ?

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Could you use two piece shaft collars as spacers to hold it tight after you pull them tight.  You could machine or grind them to fit if necessary.  Sort of like stroke limiters on a hydraulic cylinder.

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Hi Rawleigh

Thank you for your input, that is in fact what I decided, in fact I have a local Engineering company making some collars today,  one is internally threaded to go on the broken adjuster shaft on one side, like a turn barrel, and the other is not threaded but will be secured by the lock nut at one end and by the lock adjuster at the other end, and clamped in place. I remembered that one of the adjusters on the old TD6 I had years ago had the same problem, and someone fitted a spacer, in the same manner, and it never caused me any problem for the five years I owned and operated it in the bush. So fingers crossed !

Dave

 

 

 

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Great fix by the sounds of it, pics be great to go along with to help others get the idea. Seems everyone has had some sort of issue with those adjusters

Mark

 

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  • 1 month later...

Hi All
This is what I have done with my broken track adjuster for anyone interested. I turned some billet mild steel and threaded it so it would go on the old shaft, then I turned down the adjuster end of the shaft so about an 1” fits snugly inside the the threaded steel. I am going to weld it in place at the adjuster end, so I can still adjust the tracks as before. By removing the two bolts and rotating the sleeve to suit. I guess time will tell how this works out ?

Cheers

Dave

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