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Blade removal TD14


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Hello everyone, 

I recently bought a TD14 dozer in need of new sprockets and tracks.  I'm not new to wrenching on old iron but am new to IH and could use some advice on how to proceed.   I have a shop manual and understand the procedure of changing the track and sprockets but am unsure how to go about removing the blade, a bucyrus-erie.  Does everything  need to come off, like the mounting brackets and hydraulic cylinders etc?  Any shortcuts that are helpful?  Thanks in advance, love this site!!

Colin

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Here's what my TD-14 looked like when I had to replace the popped rivets on the rear sprocket.  The hydraulic cylinder & brackets are mounted on the frame so didn't have to be removed.

Vic

52.jpg

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#1 locate and mortgage for the needed parts.

start soaking all parts /bolts as shown above.

then have said parts 3x checked to fit/match and in hand .

 

then proceed to disassemble   otherwise too much goes missing

have rollers idlers and other uc/frame repairs in mind and scheduled at this time

as its 90% to do again.

photos vid along the way

welcome

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Very helpful, thank you.  Fortunately, the previous owner somehow managed to amass a truckload of spare parts, so my house is safe.  For now...

colin

 

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BE is a little different setup than Vic’s 

Do you only need to remove the blade or C frame or push arms?

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24 minutes ago, hardtail said:

BE is a little different setup than Vic’s 

Do you only need to remove the blade or C frame or push arms?

I see the difference.  Mine is an Isaacson blade.

Vic

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Offhand I would say yes, similar to Vic’s but he went a bit deeper into it which you may want to also, the final bearing cages would wear thin and then balls would drop out and get lodged between gears breaking your finals, not sure if the bearings are readily available though, might pay to have a look once your in this deep?

You see a lot of weld on sprocket rings on old machines and it must have been to save some work on this repair, I’m sure they are still available, the welds are always shiny like nirod , KOO may have documented this at sometime but a lot of his cats are bladeless 

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Getting the blade off is going to be one of the easier parts of this job, knock out the 2 pins on the vertical rods that are at the end of the lift arms and then unbolt your trunnion saddle halves and back out, then I would strap your rams to the canopy for weight support and remove the lower hardware like Vic did, then you are going to need to unbolt the outer final bearing housing from the track frames and jack up and block the back of the crawler, having a multi shank ripper here would be invaluable but it doesn’t 

Are you doing this in a shop? Don’t know the final bearing numbers if your going in deep, Browns International might, think they are spendy if available at all, could look at machining modifications if not to an alternative, your bearing replacements should be max fill

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That all makes good sense, and thanks for the advice on the bearings.  Well I hadn’t planned on dragging it into the shop, but then I hadn’t planned on opening the final drives either.  Maybe I will.

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#5&9 balls drop and get caught between the teeth, other bearing failures the ball drop to bottom of case and the bull gear pushes then through the final drive case breaking it, the pinion shaft is rotating much faster than the bull gear so the cage wear is accelerated, they maybe all fine it just is such a big job it might be worth a look, the bearings maybe standard and available, I know they were max fill HD originally, finding proper quality bearings is getting fun nowadays, I will post an old link on a guy that did his 14 halfway down, good news is search engine came up with multiple TD9 threads on final problems but not many other models

 

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If I’m in this deep already , I’d be a fool not to look at those bearings.  I have a parts catalogue that lists the original bearing numbers and it looks like they cross reference to modern brands, so fingers crossed I can replace them without breaking the bank.  Snow is melting up here in the Great white north and I’m not planning to work in the muck, so it might be 2 or 3 weeks before I get into this job.

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Should have known by the canopy style, buddy has property by Salmo, another in Ione WA

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