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986 3pt Crank Arm Bushing


Jesse in WI
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Like most 86 series tractors my 986 needs the bushing replaced on the LH side of the 3pt crank arm. Last year I replaced the seal and o-ring but that did not stop the leaking. What parts do you guys recommend replacing while I have this apart? Should I do bushings, seals, and o-rings on both sides and be done?

Also any helpful tips on the R/R of the bushings would be greatly appreciated.

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3 hours ago, Jesse in WI said:

Like most 86 series tractors my 986 needs the bushing replaced on the LH side of the 3pt crank arm. Last year I replaced the seal and o-ring but that did not stop the leaking. What parts do you guys recommend replacing while I have this apart? Should I do bushings, seals, and o-rings on both sides and be done?

Also any helpful tips on the R/R of the bushings would be greatly appreciated.

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Might as well you gotta pull the shaft all the way out for either bushing 

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  • 1 month later...

Get a piece of (min) 5/8" all thread.  Make up some large flat "drivers" large enough to go against the bushings.  Need to be heavy.  At least 1/4" thick, but 5/16", 3/8" or more is better.  Use the bolt and washers to pull the old set into the housing, and to pull the new set in.  

Separate note: I in the middle of switching the original 2pt/cat II, 3PH off and 856 and over to cat III.  Tractor has 13000+ hours on it with I'm confident over half used on 3pt.  (Tractor has been in the family since new.)  This swap required the lower bushings get changed because size changes.  The old one were not wore in even the least.  If your old ones look good, leave them alone.  

I don't recall whether the 986 had the cat II or III lower torsion shaft.  You may have to remove the o-ring retainers to remove the bushings. 

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I've replaced everything except the bushings so far and I can't stop the leaking on the left side. Unfortunately the bushings are the only thing left. I've put off doing this for 2 years now but I've wasted enough Hy-Tran on the floor of my shed to cover the cost of parts at this point.

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6 minutes ago, Jesse in WI said:

I've replaced everything except the bushings so far and I can't stop the leaking on the left side. Unfortunately the bushings are the only thing left. I've put off doing this for 2 years now but I've wasted enough Hy-Tran on the floor of my shed to cover the cost of parts at this point.

Leak may be something else.  Are the bushings wore?  Are they coated in a red material still? 

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5 minutes ago, Jesse in WI said:

Here's the left side. There are some scratches and a bunch of what look like cracks on the outer edge. 

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It's not the bushing.

How does the tube look? Pitted? 

Edit:  wait.... looks like the seal retainer is broken on the bottom.  Can you confirm? 

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10 minutes ago, Jesse in WI said:

Here's the left side. There are some scratches and a bunch of what look like cracks on the outer edge. 

IMG_20210403_110214103.thumb.jpg.beae436abbdfa33de842088b05fbc3a7.jpg

Bet 10 bucks the seal has a big groove wore into the tube.  A competent machine shop with a spray welder setup can build them up and turn them back to dimension.  Bit of a pain to set up but can be done.  

Edit) I see you posted literally as I did strange that shaft isnt work more.....I guess I lose 10 bucks lol 

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3 minutes ago, Cdfarabaugh said:

Bet 10 bucks the seal has a big groove wore into the tube.  A competent machine shop with a spray welder setup can build them up and turn them back to dimension.  Bit of a pain to set up but can be done.  

Tube is very hard.  Too hard to weld or even spray weld on.  It will break if you attempt this.  Guaranteed.  It's like welding an axle. 

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Seal retainer appears broken.  Circled in green.  Unless my eyes are playing tricks, this is your issue.  Replace the retainer. 

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Ok.  My bad.  Looked like it was broken.  But I see now the seal retainer is larger than the bushing. This is the cat II system. The o-ring rides on the lower link assembly.  There are 2 o-rings for the left side.  Had you replaced both?  Is the lower arm mount pitted? 

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Both the tube and the crank arm look fine to me from a pitting standpoint.

I'd really like to put in some new o-rings and put this back together. The other side of my brain says that I've got everything apart and I've got all the parts here so I should change the bushings as well so I don't have to take it apart again.

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I replaced everything and did not install the bushings like J-Mech suggested. I should have done it that way but I didn't ask. I ended up ruffing up one of mine a little bit. Hardest part was getting the old one out and the retainer. I ended up heating up the retainer a little bit and using a 5 lb slide hammer to get them out. Buy and extra O ring because they are easy to rip. There cheap.  When you send the tube threw it can tear your o ring from the round hole just in on your tube. I filled the edges down a bit so it wasn't so sharp. Good luck. 

 

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