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MCV Pump...


Coytee
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Can they be rebuilt?

Still waiting for weather to break before I dig into the possibility of pulling it out...  looks like you can buy one for roughly $400.  Last fall, I had the steering pump for my JCB rebuilt.  If this is bad, I'd have to think they can be redone, no?

Why are people (as best I can tell) replacing them verses having them rebuilt??

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Just a side question on MCV and hitch pump. Back at the dealership I sold 40-50 of the 1949302c1 mcv pumps a year. Around 225.00-250.00 at that time. i just looked and they are now over 800.00. Crazy. Just wondering what some of you guys are using and what luck you have had with them? I had several NOS IH pumps in my inventory so i haven't had to buy one yet. But when they are gone that's it.

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13 minutes ago, cedar farm said:

Just wondering what some of you guys are using and what luck you have had with them?

Used AG Parts pumps for at least 20 years.  No complaints yet. 

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Once they get scored inside they are basically junk  I would never think about rebuilding one not even sure if you could get the internal parts this day and age I bet there's hundreds of different model pumps and brands like TRW, Cessna, to name afew However I have rebuilt the PFC pumps before with great sucess   things are either remanufactured or new 

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3 hours ago, fspring said:

buy a agparts pump. rebuild the mcv too.

 

Yes, I would do that.  I'm not sure it's needed, I'm simply looking ahead about plan "B" in case the filter checks out.  Given this was bought used by me, I'm presuming it's going to need replaced (had to fix the sloppy shifter syndrome, replaced wiring harness, gauges.....  so I'm expecting this to be my issue absent something else proving me wrong.

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3 hours ago, fspring said:

buy a agparts pump. rebuild the mcv too.

Using your original springs, I like to only use new springs if needed. A couple gauges will tell you if you need them or not. Just make sure all spools work freely in their bores, polish them up a little if needed. 

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1 hour ago, CIHTECH said:

Using your original springs

Interesting....  I thought the conventional wisdom was to always replace the springs with new.

Are you suggesting to only do replacement springs as a function of money?  (if so, I'd rather replace them and know that I'm starting everything from a good/known position)

Are there circumstances where the new rings might not be as good as the originals, even with some hours being on the originals?

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My experience has been that they jump pressure too much or not enough, some aren't closed end and ground like the factory springs. I have just gotten along better polishing the spools and bores as needed. I have o-rings on the shelf so don't really need a kit, just the gaskets. Once up and running get my pressure readings, then if needed shim up pressure. 

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19 minutes ago, CIHTECH said:

then if needed shim up pressure

 

I see… so the spring holds something closed....adding a shim will increase the pressure needed to open the port. (I'm presuming based on what you've said)

I hadn't thought of that.  So you take things apart, do your work...  put back together and test it again after it's back together.  If the pressure is low, you take it apart again and add some shims as needed.

 

 

 

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I think all the springs can be removed from the outside of the MCV while it is installed on the tractor. But I’m not absolutely certain. Do check the pistons and bores. If the piston is catching in the bore it will not modulate smoothly. Pressure will build too high then piston will move too much and pressure will drop too low.

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A note about safety. Wear safety glasses if you need to look in the bore while the spring and piston are inside. I had a metal flake wedge in the bore with the piston. If it had come loose while I was looking in the bore it would have put my eye out. 

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1 hour ago, MarkG said:

I think all the springs can be removed from the outside of the MCV while it is installed on the tractor

I see (having never seen one apart, I had/have no idea)  I can see where that makes testing after the rebuild easier than having to take things apart again.

So let me go fishing for something....  I don't yet have the right gauge to test the pressure.  The book also calls for a snubber (I think is what it's called) and I don't have one of those either....  so right now, I can't test the pressure as per the book instructions.  My local hydraulic shop doesn't have any snubbers in stock (are they really necessary??)  

With regard to my steering being wonky, would one of these spring assemblies be worthy of pulling out to look under the cover and see if there is any obvious issue on the other end?  (Do one of these spring assemblies directly influence the steering circuit??)

Clearly I've misunderstood some things....  I've read where steering gets priority.  Well, my brakes work...my clutch assist works...everything seems to work as normal except the steering which is contrary to what I was presuming if it had priority.

 

 

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33 minutes ago, Coytee said:

Clearly I've misunderstood some things....  I've read where steering gets priority.  Well, my brakes work...my clutch assist works...everything seems to work as normal except the steering which is contrary to what I was presuming if it had priority.

Yes steering gets the first three gallons. Those are the same three gallons that feed the regulated circuit. Regulated is steering return. Leaks that affect steering but not regulated include steering relief valve, seals in steering cylinder and blown oring/gasket in mcv. The only way those regulating springs affect steering is the higher regulated pressure the less steering assist you have. Most people would never notice a difference.

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42 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

I switched to glycerin filled gauges years ago. Does the same thing.

Ah!!  The gauges I DO have.....are all liquid filled.  So, if I simply get the appropriate rating, I can bypass the snubber and be 'close enough'??

I did a quick google and learned there are two different types of snubbers....piston and (I forget).  The piston type being considered the better (more accurate?) of the two...and as I recall they were in the >$100 range which isn't an issue if I can find it!  However, if I can skip over it by using the glycerin filled gauge that saves a couple dollars AND makes it easier to procure locally.

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1 minute ago, Coytee said:

Ah!!  The gauges I DO have.....are all liquid filled.  So, if I simply get the appropriate rating, I can bypass the snubber and be 'close enough'??

I did a quick google and learned there are two different types of snubbers....piston and (I forget).  The piston type being considered the better (more accurate?) of the two...and as I recall they were in the >$100 range which isn't an issue if I can find it!  However, if I can skip over it by using the glycerin filled gauge that saves a couple dollars AND makes it easier to procure locally.

Works for me

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I've just ordered a 60 and 300 PSI gauge.  I'll need the connecting tubes to mount them.  I can show them the pictures to get the idea of the angles to bring gauges out and vertical.  What size connection would I tell them I need on the tractor side?  

Raining, cold and muddy outside so I'm not going to trek out to the tractor.

I have a connecting tube to take the pressure on my PTO.  Would it be the same size/style as that?  That would make things easy, I could take it in or perhaps even use it.  

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On 1/30/2021 at 2:37 PM, CIHTECH said:

Using your original springs, I like to only use new springs if needed. A couple gauges will tell you if you need them or not. Just make sure all spools work freely in their bores, polish them up a little if needed. 

Yep, exactly.  Ag parts  spring kit BEWARE!!   Wrong springs 

Danny and I had same experience.  

I should have jus stuck with the originals like I had done for 40 years and saved myself 2 days of grief and several mcv gaskets.

Ag parts knows about it also!

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8 hours ago, CIHTECH said:

Between the spring and regulator spool. 

I'll skip new springs in lieu of this logic (should I end up digging in there)  What are you using?  Simple washers?  Stack them until  you get the pressure reading you're after?  How do you fine tune it or, is getting it close enough.....good enough?

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3 minutes ago, J-Mech said:

Here we go again...…

 

1.  I respect your apparent knowledge
2.  I appreciate your interest and activity in policing threads, nobody likes dumbazz comments/questions
3.  If I knew all the answers (or probably 1/4 of what you know) I'd not need to ask
4.  Better to ask and clarify than to jump in and screw things up, no?
5.  I'm glad you've not asked any questions in my area of expertise....  you'd find yourself being treated with helpful knowledge instead of vituperative remarks.  Rest assured though, if I ever see you in my arena....  IF I respond, it will be in the spirit to be helpful and not condescending.
 

 

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