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1066 dipstick relocate


CW from SD
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Hey everyone, this is my first post here, sorry if this is covered somewhere but I cannot find an answer.

We sold a 1066 a number of years ago that had been modified to check and fill the rear end/hydraulic oil on the back of the tractor near the top link of the 3 point hitch.  I'd like to do that with our '74 1066.  Is there a kit or any suggestions to do it without wrecking something? I tend to spill on the floor boards and don't like that.

Thanks ?

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The 86 IH tractors transmission fill port was on the rear rockshaft housing.  I've seen guys drill the cast housing and drive in a tube from an 86.  Or switch out the rockshaft housing.  It's not easy, and it's risky.  

Here's my suggestion: buy a dang funnel or one of those jugs with the spout out the bottom with a stopper you open with your thumb.  50,000 66 series tractors out there that guys use all the time and figured out how to fill it without making a mess.... at least only rarely making a mess.  I could do it at 12/13.  It's not worth the hassle. 

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Thanks for the reply, I've been doing it for 10 or 11 years, the funnel burped today and made a mess of the cab again, I obviously need a funnel with a breather hole on the side.  I like the idea of the thumb oil can though. And really appreciate the tip on the 86 tube.  Thanks again

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 Don't know what those 5qt jugs are called with the spout out the bottom, but that's what I use.  Just don't stick the hose down the fill tube and it won't burp.  Other thing I do is use a long funnel.  I carry a pocket screwdriver.  I put the screwdriver between the funnel tube and the fill hole to let air out between.  WARNING: don't forget about the screwdriver.... or get one with a head big enough not to fall into the trans.  No, I have never forgotten... that would not be fun to fish out. That fill port was NOT one of IH's better designs, especially if they had a cab.   

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We had those kits on our 1206 and 1566’s, it replaced the center link cover on the back and had fill spout, breather and dipstick. Was awesome. I would think you could take cover off and drill and tap hole and use pipe fittings to make a fill spot and use the dipstick in the cab still. 

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6 hours ago, CW from SD said:

Hey everyone, this is my first post here, sorry if this is covered somewhere but I cannot find an answer.

We sold a 1066 a number of years ago that had been modified to check and fill the rear end/hydraulic oil on the back of the tractor near the top link of the 3 point hitch.  I'd like to do that with our '74 1066.  Is there a kit or any suggestions to do it without wrecking something? I tend to spill on the floor boards and don't like that.

Thanks ?

when i do a complete hydraulic change i pump the oil in however there are times if your in the field that's not possible  then I use a burpless funnel it works ok for small amounts

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Take the clutch booster line loose, its above oil level and returns to reservoir. On tractors without clutch booster, take top center bolt out of attachment cover plate. No burping at funnel this way. 

We pump oil in most times unless in field. 

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The factory 66 series location was probably the all time worst location ever. Was amplified when you had a cab tractor.. funnel and the park latch interfere with each other. 

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9 hours ago, CW from SD said:

Hey everyone, this is my first post here, sorry if this is covered somewhere but I cannot find an answer.

We sold a 1066 a number of years ago that had been modified to check and fill the rear end/hydraulic oil on the back of the tractor near the top link of the 3 point hitch.  I'd like to do that with our '74 1066.  Is there a kit or any suggestions to do it without wrecking something? I tend to spill on the floor boards and don't like that.

Thanks ?

Welcome to the forum.  You can drill through the cast rock shaft cover if your are comfortable. The contour isn’t right but you can drill it. Grease on drill bit will catch chips. Or take the center link cover and modify it you can add zero pressure return if you want to run hyd motors also.

now here is a trick a old time Ihc guy showed me. Take the funnel you are using. Find a piece of 1/4 copper tube or brake line will work. About 2 ft or 2 1/2 feet long. Bend it to look like a candy cane. Hang it inside your funnel over top edge it will release air as oil is goin down. He actually brazed vent pipe into a funnel and had a extra bent up in case that funnel was gone

Edited by FarmallFan
Removed derogatory language
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2 minutes ago, dale560 said:

Welcome to the forum. Sorry your first reply was from that arrogant blow hard.  You can drill through the cast rock shaft cover if your are comfortable. The contour isn’t right but you can drill it. Grease on drill bit will catch chips. Or take the center link cover and modify it you can add zero pressure return if you want to run hyd motors also.

now here is a trick a old time Ihc guy showed me. Take the funnel you are using. Find a piece of 1/4 copper tube or brake line will work. About 2 ft or 2 1/2 feet long. Bend it to look like a candy cane. Hang it inside your funnel over top edge it will release air as oil is goin down. He actually brazed vent pipe into a funnel and had a extra bent up in case that funnel was gone

Or just buy a plastic burpless funnel doesn't get any easier than than , I also got a ventless 5 gallon fuel container that works well also self venting 

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John Deere's late 4020's were not much better. A small hole on the floor right in front of the seat. What was so stupid is on the older 4020's it was a big hole on the back of the tractor. I never could figure out what was the reason for that change.

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2 hours ago, dale560 said:

 

Go up to my response and check out the "thanks".  It was from the OP.  Nothing to be sorry about. 

Edited by FarmallFan
Removed derogatory language from quote
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Just wanted to let dale560 and J-Mech know that I have edit their posts. You may not get along with one another but resorting to name calling is childish. 

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Get you one of these Milwaukee pumps and it will solve funnel problems on these tractors. They aren't technically for oil but they work awesome for it and diesel fuel. I just wouldn't use on on gear oil.

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2 minutes ago, WishIhada1466 said:

Get you one of these Milwaukee pumps and it will solve funnel problems on these tractors. They aren't technically for oil but they work awesome for it and diesel fuel. I just wouldn't use on on gear oil.

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Is it battery powered so if your in the field it would work?

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1 minute ago, ksfarmdude said:

Is it battery powered so if your in the field it would work?

Yes sir. That's the biggest reason I bought it. A 9.0 battery works best. It will eat a 5.0 pretty quick.

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Just now, WishIhada1466 said:

Yes sir. That's the biggest reason I bought it. A 9.0 battery works best. It will eat a 5.0 pretty quick.

Very good I couldn't tell how it was powered but looked like a large battery on the side only drawback I see is  a lot of hose to prime do you have positive shutoff's to close for removing from container to container and on the end for the dipstick fill so you can keep the system closed ?

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7 minutes ago, ksfarmdude said:

Very good I couldn't tell how it was powered but looked like a large battery on the side only drawback I see is  a lot of hose to prime do you have positive shutoff's to close for removing from container to container and on the end for the dipstick fill so you can keep the system closed ?

No. Just open hoses. I have 10' on the suction side and 6' on the output. It primes easy. I just leave it run and move it from one bucket to the next. As soon as the hose gets back in the oil it draws it. It will pump 55 gallons of diesel out of a fuel tank to barrel in about 10 minutes. I love it. I paid $236 for the bare tool a couple months ago. Like most of my Milwaukee tools I wondered why I waited so long.

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25 minutes ago, WishIhada1466 said:

Get you one of these Milwaukee pumps and it will solve funnel problems on these tractors. They aren't technically for oil but they work awesome for it and diesel fuel. I just wouldn't use on on gear oil.

20210122_085124.thumb.jpg.936ce4148554abf8aff3cf7d15e52cd6.jpg

 

I have one of those also. Works great for that.

 

Erich

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I use the dipstick instead of a screwdriver and pour from a 2.5 gallon jug, like a herbicide jug. It works ok. Dad used to have funnels that were corrugated which let air out but I don't see them anymore.

I've seen a 1566 with an 86 top cover. I don't know what they did to make it work. It was nice with the cab.

I have seen worse hydraulic fill points...

Thx-Ace 

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