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Hello everyone. I'm new to the forum and new to the 1066. I just bought a 74 1066 with only 4200 hrs. I'm not the most knowledgeable when it comes to working on tractors. I have a good friend that is willing to help that knows alot more than me. Any way I need to move the rear wheel on the left side. It currently sits about a half an inch from the cab. The other side is farther out. I was curious if anyone knew the socket size for the wedge bolt? Next when I picked up the tractor it started up just fine. By the time I made the 6 hr journey home the tractor was dead. I got it jumped and off the trailer and parked it. I went back to go start it and it won't start. Can't seem to get enough to jump it. So I took the batteries out and them tested. The guy said they where good but where giving out 0 cold cranking amps. So I had the. Charge them for me and I put them back in. Well I still can't seem to get it started. It trys to crank but as I keep trying it gets slower and weaker. As if batteries are dieing. I talk to my buddy and he said from what I said the batteries seem to be no good. Any thoughts? Where the tractor sits on my property there is no power yet (waiting on power company to get supplies to put in power) also where I live in wyoming there aren't alot of places to go for tractor stuff. Any tips or advice is much appreciated. Thank you 

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I can't remember if it is a 3/4" or 7/8" 12-point socket.

In addition to the socket and a sturdy breaker bar you also need the wedge lock tool:

post-128-1231072738.jpg

Otherwise one wedge will pop loose and the other one will not move. There is no other way to pop it loose aside from this tool. You'd think all you'd need to do is hit it with a hammer, but it doesn't work.

The starting issue is either a battery or a cable problem. If you are not concerned about originality, I HIGHLY recommend getting a single Group 31 battery instead of the dual batteries. This eliminates two connections and 3' of cable that is a potential problem. All you need then is a short cable to the starter and a chassis ground.

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3 hours ago, Millemon88 said:

Hello everyone. I'm new to the forum and new to the 1066. I just bought a 74 1066 with only 4200 hrs. I'm not the most knowledgeable when it comes to working on tractors. I have a good friend that is willing to help that knows alot more than me. Any way I need to move the rear wheel on the left side. It currently sits about a half an inch from the cab. The other side is farther out. I was curious if anyone knew the socket size for the wedge bolt? Next when I picked up the tractor it started up just fine. By the time I made the 6 hr journey home the tractor was dead. I got it jumped and off the trailer and parked it. I went back to go start it and it won't start. Can't seem to get enough to jump it. So I took the batteries out and them tested. The guy said they where good but where giving out 0 cold cranking amps. So I had the. Charge them for me and I put them back in. Well I still can't seem to get it started. It trys to crank but as I keep trying it gets slower and weaker. As if batteries are dieing. I talk to my buddy and he said from what I said the batteries seem to be no good. Any thoughts? Where the tractor sits on my property there is no power yet (waiting on power company to get supplies to put in power) also where I live in wyoming there aren't alot of places to go for tractor stuff. Any tips or advice is much appreciated. Thank you 

There's a special wedge bolt tool available for the wedge bolt to loosen or tight them some tractors came with them maybe yours wasn't kept with the tractor as for the batteries do some testing for alternator output in the gauge is working on the dash was it showing any charging reading when you were driving it home? check the cables good make sure they are clean and in good shape if your starting it in very cold weather it does take good batteries to gett'em going alittle snort of ether helps too 

 

    Here's the wrench I was talking about 

IMG_20190212_165715821.jpg

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The tractor would have come with the wrench pictured above, a "cheater pipe" strapped to the left frame rail, and the wedge tool I pictured installed in one of the wheels.

HOWEVER, 99.9% of these have been removed from the tractors, and subsequently lost. That is if the dealer didn't remove them from the tractor when it arrived on the lot new, so they could sell it back to the farmer when the farmer tried to move the wheel, and couldn't because they didn't have the tool.

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15 minutes ago, 7and8and1456 said:

Can't stress it enough. Get an Operator's Manual !!!

I don't see an operators manual helping much on making repairs....

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the wedge bolt takes a 7/8" 12 point socket. good luck on breaking the wedges loose. I wanted to move one wheel on my 1456. wedge didn't budge. I ended up moving the wheel clamps to the other bevel instead of moving the wedges. Might work for you.

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9 hours ago, J-Mech said:

I don't see an operators manual helping much on making repairs....

It does give a good outline of how to adjust wheel tread couldn't hurt to have a manual handy for other things as well 

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I see good rubber,  paint on cab looks good, front grill and headlights are all there, and paint looks decent, so it appears this one was taken care of.   I don't know where that yellow loader came from.  

 

I also have to ask what's it cost to rent a dual tandem Gooseneck?  :)  I just bought one, so I need to know how many times I could of rented one instead of purchasing lol 

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It's a koyker k5 quick detach loader on it. And as for trailer it costed me 150 a day. But I used it for the weekend for a one day cost. Everything is there and it's in good shape. I just need to clean up the inside of the cab some and get the steering column area bolted back together. 

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13 hours ago, J-Mech said:

I don't see an operators manual helping much on making 

Correct. Need a repair manual. Lol

I'm gonna start with the battery question because I have a minute to type.  

If a battery has 0 cold cranking amps its junk. You need to charge both batteries with a charger independently and go have them re tested somewhere else. They are either good or bad. 

Now once you have that corrected check all your cables and make sure they have good connections and cables all look good. No bulges or burnt ends. And no walmart bolt on squeeze style ends. If they arent good replace them.  After that get yohrself a voltage meter of some sort. Cheap ones work fine for what you need it for. Your voltage should be 12v roughly at rest. Now start it and re test your voltage. It should raise to 13 roughly. Your alternator should put out enough to raise the voltage higher than it was at a rest. I'm just keeping it simple so tell us what you find out from here. 

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1 minute ago, Missouri Mule said:

You are correct. Need a repair. Lol

I'm gonna start with the battery question because I have a minute to type.  

If a battery has 0 cold cranking amps its junk. You need to charge both batteries with a charger independently and go have them re tested somewhere else. They are either good or bad. 

Now once you have that corrected check all your cables and make sure they have good connections and cables all look good. No bulges or burnt ends. And no walmart bolt on squeeze style ends. If they arent good replace them.  After that get yohrself a voltage meter of some sort. Cheap ones work fine for what you need it for. Your voltage should be 12v roughly at rest. Now start it and re test your voltage. It should raise to 13 roughly. Your alternator should put out enough to raise the voltage higher than it was at a rest. I'm just keeping it simple so tell us what you find out from here. 

 

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Thank you. I will be buying some batteries for it but first I will recharge and retest. Thank you. This is the first tractor I have had to work on. It's a learning curve for me. I was a underground miner before and I had to work on the equipment underground at times. This tractor will mostly be used for snow for now until get more settled. 

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13 minutes ago, Millemon88 said:

Thank you. I will be buying some batteries for it but first I will recharge and retest. Thank you. This is the first tractor I have had to work on. It's a learning curve for me. I was a underground miner before and I had to work on the equipment underground at times. This tractor will mostly be used for snow for now until get more settled. 

Sounds like your doing all the right things nice looking rig , good luck with it

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4 hours ago, Millemon88 said:

It's a koyker k5 quick detach loader on it. And as for trailer it costed me 150 a day. But I used it for the weekend for a one day cost. Everything is there and it's in good shape. I just need to clean up the inside of the cab some and get the steering column area bolted back together. 

$11,600 divided by 150 bucks a day equals about 77 times I could of rented a trailer.  Figure in I need a trailer about 3-4 times a year my trailer will pay for itself in 19 years lol 

Glad that's settled lol 

 

I agree with what's been said if a battery has no cold cranking amps they are shot.  May still show 12V but ain't worth anything.  

 

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3 hours ago, B.B. said:

$11,600 divided by 150 bucks a day equals about 77 times I could of rented a trailer.  Figure in I need a trailer about 3-4 times a year my trailer will pay for itself in 19 years lol 

Glad that's settled lol 

 

I agree with what's been said if a battery has no cold cranking amps they are shot.  May still show 12V but ain't worth anything.  

 

Wrong.... 8 tires every 5 years or so. Your still in the hole. Tack on atleast 2 sets of tires on your 19 years. ?

We wont get into brakes or floors, or lights. I'm saying 25yrs. But then you had to buy a whole new trailer... nevermind. Lol

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