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5488 repairs. Going deep inside!


5488Duke
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Looks like it’s getting the attention it needs!   I will be watching closely, my brothers tractor is slipping in evens.    Take more pics if you have time!  It must never get cold there???

8 hours ago, 88seriesrestorer said:

You are not putting the "IH Updates" in are ya.  It will be costly and your ground will be cut down.  When u do the IH updates they go from 55t even gear to a 44t even which slows tractor way down.  Also when u want to down shift the gear is virtually nothing.  Reason.  Odd gear stays 39t.  The even goes to 44t thats only a 5 tooth diff instead of 55t which is 16t diff.  Huge difference

Mike- would this make them a turtle on the road?  Around 18 tops.    Dads 5288 4wd is super slow on road.   Have paperwork from previous owners they did trans a while back.  

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3 minutes ago, nate said:

Looks like it’s getting the attention it needs!   I will be watching closely, my brothers tractor is slipping in evens.    Take more pics if you have time!  It must never get cold there???

Mike- would this make them a turtle on the road?  Around 18 tops.    Dads 5288 4wd is super slow on road.   Have paperwork from previous owners they did trans a while back.  

Sure cause your losing 11 teeth off high gear.  

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On 12/20/2020 at 3:19 PM, 5488Duke said:

Noticed a slight hesitation earlier this year on the 5488 when pulling out on road in even gears. So tested things this summer and with full throttle in high range odd gears and full brake pedals let clutch out and tried to stall tractor. Now switch to even gears and did the same... no loss of engine speed and clutch all the way out. Ok we have a problem. Pics below digging into it to find everything we need and get parts ordered.  
 

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6FEF6E15-61CB-4C66-8184-FB1D8D405256.jpeg

3A50DFE4-165F-462B-A5F3-33D08F4B2EBF.jpeg

Looks like our 5088 two years ago. Hope all goes well in reassembling. Got all our parts from RRR.

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On 12/20/2020 at 2:19 PM, 5488Duke said:

Noticed a slight hesitation earlier this year on the 5488 when pulling out on road in even gears. So tested things this summer and with full throttle in high range odd gears and full brake pedals let clutch out and tried to stall tractor. Now switch to even gears and did the same... no loss of engine speed and clutch all the way out. Ok we have a problem. Pics below digging into it to find everything we need and get parts ordered.  
 

3F9C5BF2-3A3A-45B1-9DE0-9B6487235076.jpeg

38156F91-D5C6-4122-A3B3-1751A999926A.jpeg

F1F69E77-9848-4808-A4AF-33911072D4A5.jpeg

9D2E96D6-E001-459F-926C-C68E4AA040DF.jpeg

6FEF6E15-61CB-4C66-8184-FB1D8D405256.jpeg

3A50DFE4-165F-462B-A5F3-33D08F4B2EBF.jpeg

That’s a beautiful looking tractor!!!!! 

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You do not have the complete update to the speed transmission because you clearly still have the 55 tooth high drive gear, but it may have the coarse clutch plate splines which is what you need. The complete update changed the high drive gear to a coarse 44 tooth gear that replaced the 55 tooth gear for greater strength. This required changing the counter shaft gear and output gear (high drive) to match. The problem is they changed to the pressed counter shaft from the splined one at the same time so you can't just change the gear on the counter shaft to match as they never made the coarse tooth countershaft gear that was splined so you have to change all the countershaft gears.

   88series restorer said they changed the high drive ratio when they went to the 44 tooth gear, this is not true, the ratio is the same. The original setup had a 55 tooth driving the counter shaft and a 55 tooth output gear for a 1 to 1 ratio. The coarse tooth setup was the same but it had a 44 tooth drive and 44 tooth output so still 1 to 1 ratio, the tooth count on the countershaft has no affect on the ratio.

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11 minutes ago, Torque said:

You do not have the complete update to the speed transmission because you clearly still have the 55 tooth high drive gear, but it may have the coarse clutch plate splines which is what you need. The complete update changed the high drive gear to a coarse 44 tooth gear that replaced the 55 tooth gear for greater strength. This required changing the counter shaft gear and output gear (high drive) to match. The problem is they changed to the pressed counter shaft from the splined one at the same time so you can't just change the gear on the counter shaft to match as they never made the coarse tooth countershaft gear that was splined so you have to change all the countershaft gears.

   88series restorer said they changed the high drive ratio when they went to the 44 tooth gear, this is not true, the ratio is the same. The original setup had a 55 tooth driving the counter shaft and a 55 tooth output gear for a 1 to 1 ratio. The coarse tooth setup was the same but it had a 44 tooth drive and 44 tooth output so still 1 to 1 ratio, the tooth count on the countershaft has no affect on the ratio.

Can you explain why top speed was lower after update if changing the gears does not affect gear ratio? I'm not arguing, I just don't understand. I have a neighbor and has a 54 that had all the updates. I know because I did it back in the day at the dealership. After it was done the owner asked me, why did you slow the road speed down? I said, I replaced the gears according to the bulletin, I'd it slowed it down it was not my intention. I have a 52 that still has splined counter shaft. My tractor is noticably faster than the 54, I mean 4-5 mph faster at same rpm's. Same tire size, 20.8-38, and it's not the speedometer. Very noticable when you drive them.

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  • 1 month later...

So parts finally started arriving so I could start putting things back together.  
 

New flex plate and rear main seal
CF83D2D9-FE33-4BB3-A5A2-D1BF616E5141.thumb.jpeg.e15f9e0b05ec41c95ebae56384f4955e.jpeg

Master clutch discs getting very worn, so new clutch parts.  

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New disc and old disc 

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Master clutch ready to go back in  


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Hi/low or Odd/Even clutch pack torn apart  new discs and plates ready for reassembly with new bearings and seals. Discs were not that bad at all but found an oring  on piston that engages was cut.

99A721B9-66FC-4848-96B1-BBB0A50872D5.thumb.jpeg.c492970b14345cbd20ad2297dc66b656.jpeg2427B00E-36F6-4682-AE53-8802D5CDFF6A.thumb.jpeg.1bb0b30feaa2b4776e7c5ff41005d2d0.jpegC440E405-8CDF-4083-8229-B44E462A58B0.thumb.jpeg.cfe1093f80298149267af4c7c7dad0f0.jpeg07B10AA4-11F6-4260-AAE3-A303A2E1F293.thumb.jpeg.d26012ff9d1ddc2e52da1466c91fb719.jpegB1574641-6276-4665-8C31-7F352028F884.thumb.jpeg.c08e4cd83394e5d3012e9686ecd9fae8.jpeg

Front wheel drive shaft splines very worn and the coupler at front axle where those splines mesh had its splines almost gone! Would not have had MFD very much longer!

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Stay tuned for more updates as the week goes by!

Loren

 

 

C5B5A6AB-20CA-4C68-BF1B-7F8A797294B4.jpeg

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On 12/20/2020 at 2:19 PM, 5488Duke said:

Noticed a slight hesitation earlier this year on the 5488 when pulling out on road in even gears. So tested things this summer and with full throttle in high range odd gears and full brake pedals let clutch out and tried to stall tractor. Now switch to even gears and did the same... no loss of engine speed and clutch all the way out. Ok we have a problem. Pics below digging into it to find everything we need and get parts ordered.  
 

3F9C5BF2-3A3A-45B1-9DE0-9B6487235076.jpeg

38156F91-D5C6-4122-A3B3-1751A999926A.jpeg

F1F69E77-9848-4808-A4AF-33911072D4A5.jpeg

9D2E96D6-E001-459F-926C-C68E4AA040DF.jpeg

6FEF6E15-61CB-4C66-8184-FB1D8D405256.jpeg

3A50DFE4-165F-462B-A5F3-33D08F4B2EBF.jpeg

What am I not understanding on your pictures....On a couple the tractor is clearly on the left side of the shop as if you're sitting in the seat. Then the last picture it looks like the tractor is more to the right side of the shop..

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On 12/20/2020 at 2:19 PM, 5488Duke said:

Noticed a slight hesitation earlier this year on the 5488 when pulling out on road in even gears. So tested things this summer and with full throttle in high range odd gears and full brake pedals let clutch out and tried to stall tractor. Now switch to even gears and did the same... no loss of engine speed and clutch all the way out. Ok we have a problem. Pics below digging into it to find everything we need and get parts ordered.  
 

3F9C5BF2-3A3A-45B1-9DE0-9B6487235076.jpeg

38156F91-D5C6-4122-A3B3-1751A999926A.jpeg

F1F69E77-9848-4808-A4AF-33911072D4A5.jpeg

9D2E96D6-E001-459F-926C-C68E4AA040DF.jpeg

6FEF6E15-61CB-4C66-8184-FB1D8D405256.jpeg

3A50DFE4-165F-462B-A5F3-33D08F4B2EBF.jpeg

What am I not understanding on your pictures....On a couple the tractor is clearly on the left side of the shop as if you're sitting in the seat. Then the last picture it looks like the tractor is more to the right side of the shop..

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On 12/20/2020 at 2:19 PM, 5488Duke said:

Noticed a slight hesitation earlier this year on the 5488 when pulling out on road in even gears. So tested things this summer and with full throttle in high range odd gears and full brake pedals let clutch out and tried to stall tractor. Now switch to even gears and did the same... no loss of engine speed and clutch all the way out. Ok we have a problem. Pics below digging into it to find everything we need and get parts ordered.  
 

3F9C5BF2-3A3A-45B1-9DE0-9B6487235076.jpeg

38156F91-D5C6-4122-A3B3-1751A999926A.jpeg

F1F69E77-9848-4808-A4AF-33911072D4A5.jpeg

9D2E96D6-E001-459F-926C-C68E4AA040DF.jpeg

6FEF6E15-61CB-4C66-8184-FB1D8D405256.jpeg

3A50DFE4-165F-462B-A5F3-33D08F4B2EBF.jpeg

What am I not understanding on your pictures....On a couple the tractor is clearly on the left side of the shop as if you're sitting in the seat. Then the last picture it looks like the tractor is more to the right side of the shop..

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On 12/20/2020 at 2:19 PM, 5488Duke said:

Noticed a slight hesitation earlier this year on the 5488 when pulling out on road in even gears. So tested things this summer and with full throttle in high range odd gears and full brake pedals let clutch out and tried to stall tractor. Now switch to even gears and did the same... no loss of engine speed and clutch all the way out. Ok we have a problem. Pics below digging into it to find everything we need and get parts ordered.  
 

3F9C5BF2-3A3A-45B1-9DE0-9B6487235076.jpeg

38156F91-D5C6-4122-A3B3-1751A999926A.jpeg

F1F69E77-9848-4808-A4AF-33911072D4A5.jpeg

9D2E96D6-E001-459F-926C-C68E4AA040DF.jpeg

6FEF6E15-61CB-4C66-8184-FB1D8D405256.jpeg

3A50DFE4-165F-462B-A5F3-33D08F4B2EBF.jpeg

 

On 12/20/2020 at 2:19 PM, 5488Duke said:

Noticed a slight hesitation earlier this year on the 5488 when pulling out on road in even gears. So tested things this summer and with full throttle in high range odd gears and full brake pedals let clutch out and tried to stall tractor. Now switch to even gears and did the same... no loss of engine speed and clutch all the way out. Ok we have a problem. Pics below digging into it to find everything we need and get parts ordered.  
 

3F9C5BF2-3A3A-45B1-9DE0-9B6487235076.jpeg

38156F91-D5C6-4122-A3B3-1751A999926A.jpeg

F1F69E77-9848-4808-A4AF-33911072D4A5.jpeg

9D2E96D6-E001-459F-926C-C68E4AA040DF.jpeg

6FEF6E15-61CB-4C66-8184-FB1D8D405256.jpeg

3A50DFE4-165F-462B-A5F3-33D08F4B2EBF.jpeg

What am I not understanding on your pictures....On a couple the tractor is clearly on the left side of the shop as if you're sitting in the seat. Then the last picture it looks like the tractor is more to the right side of the shop..

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On 12/20/2020 at 2:19 PM, 5488Duke said:

Noticed a slight hesitation earlier this year on the 5488 when pulling out on road in even gears. So tested things this summer and with full throttle in high range odd gears and full brake pedals let clutch out and tried to stall tractor. Now switch to even gears and did the same... no loss of engine speed and clutch all the way out. Ok we have a problem. Pics below digging into it to find everything we need and get parts ordered.  
 

3F9C5BF2-3A3A-45B1-9DE0-9B6487235076.jpeg

38156F91-D5C6-4122-A3B3-1751A999926A.jpeg

F1F69E77-9848-4808-A4AF-33911072D4A5.jpeg

9D2E96D6-E001-459F-926C-C68E4AA040DF.jpeg

6FEF6E15-61CB-4C66-8184-FB1D8D405256.jpeg

3A50DFE4-165F-462B-A5F3-33D08F4B2EBF.jpeg

 

On 12/20/2020 at 2:19 PM, 5488Duke said:

Noticed a slight hesitation earlier this year on the 5488 when pulling out on road in even gears. So tested things this summer and with full throttle in high range odd gears and full brake pedals let clutch out and tried to stall tractor. Now switch to even gears and did the same... no loss of engine speed and clutch all the way out. Ok we have a problem. Pics below digging into it to find everything we need and get parts ordered.  
 

3F9C5BF2-3A3A-45B1-9DE0-9B6487235076.jpeg

38156F91-D5C6-4122-A3B3-1751A999926A.jpeg

F1F69E77-9848-4808-A4AF-33911072D4A5.jpeg

9D2E96D6-E001-459F-926C-C68E4AA040DF.jpeg

6FEF6E15-61CB-4C66-8184-FB1D8D405256.jpeg

3A50DFE4-165F-462B-A5F3-33D08F4B2EBF.jpeg

What am I not understanding on your pictures....On a couple the tractor is clearly on the left side of the shop as if you're sitting in the seat. Then the last picture it looks like the tractor is more to the right side of the shop..

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When you hit submit do it once and wait. If you hit the submit again and again till you get a reply or it moves out of the “reply to” screen it will post that many posts. 

OMMV, John 

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On 12/21/2020 at 6:15 AM, CIHTECH said:

Into a 7120 for med clutch in range trans..........2075408895_7120003.thumb.jpg.aa7d57b0731fb2e92597fdb7a2656e16.jpg

7120 002.jpg

There's a lot in your magnum picture that looks just like the stuff in my 88 series...I wonder why?? ? Interesting...could it be...haha

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3 hours ago, TB5288 said:

 

What am I not understanding on your pictures....On a couple the tractor is clearly on the left side of the shop as if you're sitting in the seat. Then the last picture it looks like the tractor is more to the right side of the shop..

The first pics with the sheet metal still on the tractor was in middle of shop when we took duals off.  Then moved it over to the left some and further back to do the split. Other pics its just the camera angle.

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So the transmission went back together today. Everything’s looking good so far. Finished the 3 point assembly up also. Arms leaking down and had an issue with planter on the 3 point not wanting to go down like draft was telling it to raise up. So checked that system all out and replaced all orings and master cylinder seals.   Now tearing axles off to check brakes and replace orings in brake master cylinder and new discs. 
she’s going to be all ready for the next 8000 hours.  
 

working on rebuild of synchro shaft, new discs and bearings. 
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Putting shafts back in front section 

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Setting bearing tolerances 

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Back onto engine section and ready to roll under cab and make the tractor one piece again  98E628A0-2ECA-4348-A7C3-B257470BD772.thumb.jpeg.64098055aba495635b8e7f2e90e5b129.jpeg

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ready to put 3 point back on

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off with the rear wheels and into the brakes to check them out

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Will finish brakes next week.  Until then will work on the tedious part of getting all the wires and hoses hooked up and fluids back in engine and coolant.  Then finish brakes and add Hytran and run pressure diagnostics to check everything out. Then set all parameters on 3 point hitch.  
 

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1 minute ago, J-Mech said:

I hope you soaked the new disks in hy-tran before you assembled the clutch packs.  

Yes those pics were the layout before starting assembly to just make sure we had all the pieces needed..discs, thrust washers, snap rings, teflon rings and rings etc.., but yes for any of you new to this process you definitely want to have fluid in those discs as a start up from empty system takes a little bit to get fluid up and into everything.  Soaked all the discs for clutch and sychro and master clutch.

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34 minutes ago, 5488Duke said:

but yes for any of you new to this process you definitely want to have fluid in those discs as a start up from empty system takes a little bit to get fluid up and into everything.

That's not why you soak them though.  You soak them prior because they are designed to absorb the oil.  If you install them dry, they are not submerged in fluid, and won't immediately soak up oil.  They would run dry for quite a while.  They need to soak around 30 minutes to fully absorb oil.  If they are dry on install, they won't hold, and when they slip it will tear the facing off or burn them.  Also, they will expand ever so slightly when soaked, so you want them soaked when you set the clutch pack gap.  It really has little to nothing to do with the time it takes to prime the system and work the air out. Not presoaking would mean almost guaranteed failure. 

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