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Rustproofing new trucks.


wild one
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This might be like an oil thread, but I am going to ask anyway. If purchasing a new truck in the rust belt, is rust proofing worth while ? I have heard several body guys say its worth every penny, but I have never had a vehicle that was rustproofed and always thought it was a waste of money.

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I had my F250 under coated with Krown oil Undercoating. pretty happy so far but the truck is only 2 years old.  They spray it inside doors , tailgate and cab corners.   I have seen many vehicles with the ziebart style that the rust got under and just went wild.  

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I go to a local place that uses oil with some “additives “ they have been doing it for 30-40 years. Ive tried NH undercoating and fluid film. I find thise 2 don't hold up to the spray and eventually rinse off. 
carreras hot oil rustproofing recommends 2 times a year, spring and fall. I think diligence and persistence is about all you can do. Each system has merit, but some seem to work better than others. Ill stick with the hot oil. 

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My old man would have put zeibart in his cereal if they would have sold it to him for that...............he would do every vehicle, and rust would get under it and go to town, then trying to fix it with that crap on it................yuck.  I personally think used motor oil is about the best if you clean and use it often enough.  Myself, I think being able to clean it and the vehicle able to dry out, is more important.  The brine now sticks to everything, and the dirt sticks to that which corrodes stuff even faster, a good hot water pressure washer would be a better investment IMO. 

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Oil coating does wonders, been doing this for almost 15 years.  Had a 94 ford F150 in Michigan that it virtually stopped the rust, after blasting and painting the underside.  I never did any body work when I sold it in 2014 and it looked pretty good.  Canada was doing most of the work till recently, I prefer Oil Guard but as already mentioned there are Krown places in Michigan now.

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I started spraying new trucks down with warmed (to thin it) Cenpeco motor oil (new oil) in the ‘90s. Works great. But the oil deteriorates rubber so after only 2-3 years I had cracked and very poor looking body bushings, shock and shackle bushings, etc.  So I switched to Hytran, thinking it may be better on the rubber, but it didn’t seem to be. Then I tried fluid film, didn’t like that,(I’m in NY here, lotta salt, only keep a truck 5-6 years, but many trucks around here have a Lot of rust by then).  I had one coated with the heavy black coating type stuff, hard stuff, like spray on bedliner, not the soft asphalt stuff that peels) and I didn’t like it as it looked too “blah” under the truck. Everything was just black. Had to re coat it every year to keep their warranty against rust up, and after four years... hat stuff was 3/8” thick under there. Would have been terrible to work on. I now use a Krown type oil that the undercoat place sells me-in bulk out the back door for $40/gal.  I do them in the fall early, then again mid winter, then hot water pressure wash it off in the spring. What little of it is still on there. If you have them spray it, $125/yr, they provide a paint warranty against “perforation” for 6 years I believe.  My buddy took them his truck the day it was new, and every year after, for 6 years, and last year they did pay for a new fender to be put on his truck. (Although it had rusted through....so I’m not sure what that says about their product) but it’s what I use. Oh, if you buy a GM, it will have that crappy black wax as a coating on the frame, with just bare metal under it. All of the oil type undercoatings will Dissolve that wax, leaving you a mess. And the black type undercoatings won’t stick to it, because it’s a soft wax, that sucks. But if you buy a ford or a dodge with a painted frame, you’re good to go.  Maybe ‘21 gm’s are different, 

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Me being on the west coast don't have the rust belt pounding that you guys get, that said when I got the truck in 07 I had the bed sprayed with linex, being a dually I had the front 1/4s up to the belt line done with linex, the undercarriage I had done the same day so no dirt or water underneath, if I have it out in rain or traveled gravel etc. I spray down all underneath, I wash and brush everything beginning of every year and reapply the undercoat with rattlecan undercoat which is fine after the initial job in 07.

My jeep not so much, just keep it sprayed down and washed underneath, the fenders and bumpers are all plastic so no paint not much care needed on the daily driver.

Just my 2 cents worth.

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I do that too!  My 2014 F150 is 46K and is parked for the winter!

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29 minutes ago, stronger800 said:

Oh, if you buy a GM, it will have that crappy black wax as a coating on the frame, with just bare metal under it. All of the oil type undercoatings will Dissolve that wax, leaving you a mess. And the black type undercoatings won’t stick to it, because it’s a soft wax, that sucks. But if you buy a ford or a dodge with a painted frame, you’re good to go.  Maybe ‘21 gm’s are different, 

That stuff sucks, my friends 09’ 550 dump which he uses to plow and sand with has what looks like a new frame on it. My 14’ has what looks like ocean salvage . It blows. 

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1 hour ago, TP from Central PA said:

Myself, I think being able to clean it and the vehicle able to dry out, is more important.  The brine now sticks to everything, and the dirt sticks to that which corrodes stuff even faster, a good hot water pressure washer would be a better investment IMO. 

X2. I  pressure wash my 2001 7.3 f350 after EVERY salt exposure.  Still have it, and very little rust.  But it’s not my daily driver. 

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I own a GM now...my first...probably my last.  I had no idea there was not some sort of a paint under that black wax crap.  I googled/called/searched and then bought myself a case of 12  aerosol can$ of that same junk, to try to do halfazzed touchups to the frame....on my brand new truck.  Considered using a degreaser and  pressure washer to strip it, then paint it. But I don’t like the truck enough. 

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Fluid film or wools wax.  Do it religiously, and get it behind/into the body panels because that’s where the rust starts.  I have a straw with a 360 degree orifice and I put 2 cans into each rocker every year, and that is just for starters.  I also bomb the entire underside but that’s not the important part if you want to stop or slow it. 

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I fluid filmed my 2012 GMC.  The factory Daubert coating reacted from the fluid film and after a year I had a mess .  The rest of the underside held up so good  from the fluid film , the service manager called me after I traded it  to ask what did you do?  The  underside of the bed  was brand new if you took a  rag and wiped the fluid film away and that was 5 years later.  I  now have a 18 GMC and I had  it sprayed with NHoil undercoating  .  I was under it  last week and after 2 NJ and NY winters, it's  like new.  I also took my 18 home  and right into the garage.  I pulled inner fender wells, all the brakes, rotor's etc off and coated everything  with cosmoline.  Still looks very good.  

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The oil didn’t eat the daubert  wax right off? (I couldn’t think of that name, but I bought $200 worth of it I think it was).  I  bought two gallons of fluid film and liked it on my ford that I used it on (new truck) but I didn’t like the smell, and I did a test with it on a buddys gm waxed frame...and it dissolved it and dripped off. Bare metal. No bueno.

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We have a new  Alumaduty... I hit it with the Krown type oil,  will hit again mid winter, and wash it off in the spring. I fill the doors. Fill the box cross tubes. All the under cab braces and supports.  Same automotive undercoat gun and flex wands that I’ve used forever. Local shop would do it cheaper....but I think I do a more thorough  job. 

 

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9 hours ago, TP from Central PA said:

My old man would have put zeibart in his cereal if they would have sold it to him for that...............he would do every vehicle, and rust would get under it and go to town, then trying to fix it with that crap on it................yuck.  I personally think used motor oil is about the best if you clean and use it often enough.  Myself, I think being able to clean it and the vehicle able to dry out, is more important.  The brine now sticks to everything, and the dirt sticks to that which corrodes stuff even faster, a good hot water pressure washer would be a better investment IMO. 

Funny! I've got an '87 C70 that has Ziebart plugs all over. Pieces of that truck's body regularly fall off in the yard. Useless stuff.

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10 hours ago, Paystar5000 said:

I had my F250 under coated with Krown oil Undercoating. pretty happy so far but the truck is only 2 years old.  They spray it inside doors , tailgate and cab corners.   I have seen many vehicles with the ziebart style that the rust got under and just went wild.  

I’ve switched to the Krown also. I used to use old motor oil thinned and sprayed through a garden sprayer but it’s easier to have someone else do it! You need something that seeps in between the layers of metal that will keep the saltwater out. I can cut a door skin or box side off a truck that’s a year old and find corrosion starting if nothing has been done to them.

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I have a friend who is obsessed, he is a fluid film devotee , he applies every fall, cleans religiously, and obsesses over the undercarriage. He pressure  washes clean every year, wire brushes and touches up any spot he sees anything with fresh paint, then again every fall reapplies fluid film. Only 2 issues i see with his system is that hes so OCD clean i think he removes more than he leaves in his scouring, i also think he doesn’t apply enough, because hes so phobic about a mess. 

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3 hours ago, rrr4quality said:

I’ve switched to the Krown also. I used to use old motor oil thinned and sprayed through a garden sprayer but it’s easier to have someone else do it! You need something that seeps in between the layers of metal that will keep the saltwater out. I can cut a door skin or box side off a truck that’s a year old and find corrosion starting if nothing has been done to them.

I had my doubts about the Krown.  It creeped up the back of the tailgate and bottom of the inside of the doors for a couple months after I had it done.  You gotta get after it pretty good to wash it off.  The guy gave me some in spray cans and I have been using it to lube Chevy door hinges and the roller that keeps the door open.  Had a few that are completely stuck .  Sprayed with the Krown a couple times and work the door a bunch and they  freed right up good as new.  Checked them a few months later and the Krown was still there.   I’m not saying it’s a cure all but I want my truck to last 10 years at least and with the salt around here you have to do something.  

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