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TD9B Power Shift Problem


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Dennis (farmalldr)  - Yes, know what you mean about the converter straps “pulling” as opposed to “pushing”.  Will make sure we have them in the correct orientation/rotation with the motor.

When we tore down the clutch pack, we found the two rubber O rings (“oversized” O ring & Lathe cut) to be in need of replacement. They were intact, but old and hard.  The hook type metal counter bore rings seemed good, but we replaced them.  The clutch and steel plates didn’t show any wear, but when measured against the overall of the new…..the newly rebuild clutch pack will have 1/8” – 3/16” less travel due to thickness of new clutches and plates.  We found nothing to really say the clutch pack had performance failure to the extent that would cause the tractor to stall when it met the least resistance.

However, we disassembled the torque converter this past weekend and found the smoking gun.  You were absolutely correct in your original suspicion that when we had a local shop rebuild the converter that they could have installed the stator in backwards - - - it was definitely installed backwards!  We have sourced the (2) new O-Rings for the rebuild and will face the stator in the correct position.  This should fix the stalling problem.  Funny thing is we disassembled the tractor from front to rear and rebuilt all in reversed, with torque converter being the last component.  What started out as a trouble shoot and repair has ended up in a total restoration project.  

The next thing to tackle is the filtration system.  In one of my earlier post, I mentioned that a previous owner had eliminated and by-passed the high pressure filter at the forward/reverse control value assembly and removed the filter elements in the suction and return canisters.  Since we have been unable to source the original filter elements, the plan is replace all (3) of the filter setups with disposable screw-on type filters.  May be a challenge to figure out how the high pressure filter was by-passed in order to install new setup as designed.  Hopefully, the schematic flow chart in the manual will show this.  Going to replace all of the hoses, including ram hoses, to officially call this a restoration project.

Again, thanks for all your help!  Will post some pictures in my next update.  


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  • 7 months later...


I need some help in trouble shooting a governor issue on this old TD-9B.  I finally got this restoration project all back together but the governor does not kick-in when I hit a pile, the rpms go down.  When I reinstalled the motor, I timed the injector pump with the motor using a timing light connected to a dynamic pulsating meter mechanically clamped to #1 injector line and set at 38-degrees BTDC.  I am not sure how accurate this typing of timing is, since the pulse could be subjected as to where the device is clamped on the injector line (close to the injector, or mid-line).  It starts and runs, so I thought life was good.  I tried adjusting the torque & high idle screws and nothing changed.   I recently found in the manual where it states to “Static” time the motor and injector pump (didn’t see this before).  So, I brought #1 to TDC on compression stroke and at 38-degrees BTDC.  The manual then says to remove the inspection plate on the injector pump and align the “plus” sign on the governor shaft to the center of the inspection window.  This is where I need help in locating the “plus” sign.  This International TD-9B, (282) has a RD Injector Pump and I don’t know where to look for the plus sign.  I see only one shaft in the inspection port.  I removed the (3) bolts holding the locking ring on the front of the pump and then turned the shaft looking for the plus sign.  First, I assume what I am turning from the front of the pump is the governor shaft.  Second, I see what looks like a shaft with weights passing through the shaft that I am turning from the front.  The shaft that I am turning does not appear to run all the way through the window port, it stops at some sort of metering plate.  Is this where the plus sign should be (the end of the shaft at the metering plate?  This mystery has me baffled.  Am I looking in the right place?  Is the plus sign on the shaft that I am turning from the front cover of the pump, or is it on the shaft that the weights are on, which runs through the shaft I am tuning?  Should the shaft I am turning from the front also be turning beyond the metering plate.  Now also wondering if I have something not working inside the governor itself.   If you scroll back to the very beginning of this post, you will see this has been a total restoration of this tractor and now I am stumped.  Any thoughts or suggestions will be greatly appreciated


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