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300 U


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Just dragged this home. Will need a lot of work. At least the engine is loose, but was dismayed when they tilted it loading and water ran out of one of the rear axles. I will have to get everything drained but likely that will let things rust. The rear hitch was unexpected. Tires are weather checked and round. Got rid of the roll bar to get it inside. Usually don't see a front pump only-might not stay that way. I am beginning to think I should take it apart first and see what needs to be done I know the clutch isn't right and the front end rear support needs help. Probably should get the top of the trans off to see how rusty. They said it was inside for years, If you believe that I got some swamp land to sell you. The only problem is my C2500 trans started to slip when backing in the drive, that may have to come first.

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Exhaust was up right for a long time, long enough that the bolt heads on the elbow are almost rounded off with rust. This tractor is a jig saw puzzle. I took the rest of the sheet metal off the engine and found extra resistors and condensers and a rats nest of wiring. Took the carb off because the fuel line was cut and it looked like mud daubers were at work. Did not find a venturi even though the recess is for it. Dirt and grime through most of the passageways.  Did they not put a venturi in some models?  Or do I need to find one. I was going to see if it runs before I dig too deep. I did get three or four gallons of water out of the trans before it freezes up. I did find some hytran in each of the three compartments. More as I dig.

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Do you know anything about the yellow paint? My 300U has some yellow that you can see has wore through from under the red in a few spots. Was curious as to what that could be about as i don't believe they painted anything yellow (such as they did later with industrials) in the 50s. Correct me if i'm wrong. 

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This one appears to be red painted over with yellow( some numbering on hood indicates business use). It is flaking off and if I was not tied up trying to figure the transmission problem out on the Suburban(if the frame and body was not in such good shape I would scrap it) would have seen how much would come off with a pressure washer when it was above freezing. I have reversed the rear wheels and tried to start it but only got as far as turning it over . I need a better supply of gas. I found a venturi and got that put together. Did a basic check of ignition but need to go deeper as it wouldn't fire the first try. Wiring is missing the starter solenoid but have been using an old screw driver. I might disable the front pump for the hydraulics so the engine can turn over faster and easier, clutch is stuck so neutral for now. Not enough day light hours and my paying job gets in the way. Oh well.

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only had a winch and   trailer recently  otherwise we had to tow/drive them home,or pay$$$$

dealers dead rows (which we got banned from)were some of our best purchases 

after they were thru the shop $$$$ and in worse condition 

last 300 in general condition as OP was in '12...$400 ish took a crash box 3 gal gas and 3 good tires/ rims   they were not happy when we drove out the gate and 10 m home

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  • 3 months later...

Just an update. Finally got the engine running, runs out decent. Found a Venturi online. Someone cut the condenser wire inside the distributor. New plugs and just filed the points. Bypassed the wiring temporarily to see if it could run. Bought a solenoid which was missing and new cables. Got the wiring fixed so it will start and run with the key. Had to repair the fuel line and sediment bowl for leaks and the carb plugged the needle and seat. Repairing the hydraulic front mount support base right now as it was cobbled on and appears crooked. Not sure the history on this but the hydraulic on the engine is/was not there so plan to use the current one. The shaft without the pump kinda bounces around making a racket. Started with making a plate to bolt the pump on but wish I had a picture to go by. Old mount is cobbled and cut off. I do not see anything like it on the parts site. Any pointers on getting the alignment right? Was planning on getting it close and rotating the motor over by hand to see how much movement is there. Anyone have any pictures of something like it?

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Got the pump mounted and new hoses. Filled it up and it works good. Power steering was not good so I jacked it up and the right had spindle seemed to bind. Took the wide front off as it needs work and I wanted to narrow it up but some genius decided to weld them in place. What a job. Ran out of acetylene and had to switch to propane as they did not have any gas for the last week and did not know when they were getting more. Oh well, the tip needed changing anyway. Now as it is off it wants to turn so I will pull them apart to see what is going on. Still need to check the gear box for oil but my manual has very little so I get to explore. I have split the axle ends open and it is almost rust welded in place. Some pic as I go. I could buy a different front but what is to say I would have the same trouble narrowing it up.

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So I am working on the thrust bearings on the lower spindles. Case IH wants 99 a bearing if you find them. Not all stores have them. Other parts houses have a will fit but the outer dimensions are close to a quarter inch each side smaller. Priced at ten to fifteen bucks. I am not keen on doing that but maybe for a tractor that is not going to see extra weight on the front maybe it will not matter much what are your thoughts. 

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  • 6 months later...

Well I finally dug deeper into several problems and have been fixing other things to get it mechanically sound before going down the paint road. T/A clutch was not releasing when clutching or pulling the T/A lever. Not totally sure I got it fixed but the disc was bonded to the pressure plate and flywheel. Several springs broke and use parts and a new disc later put back together. Also found the lower gear of the PTO loose and tightened that up. Still don't have it all adjusted yet. Pulled the head off and found gouges in the #4 sleeve and a chipped ring. Bearing were the best I have seen in a tractor I have pulled apart and may have been worked on in the recent past. The bore is standard and the wrist pins are the large size so it gets more involved when changing pistons. Pulled the sleeve and now am trying to get a good used sleeve before pulling the rest as they have minimal wear. Ordered new rings and gaskets but they have not come. The sleeve I found, the outer bore was too small. ID was ok at 3.563. Outer bore of new sleeve was 3.680 while what was in the tractor was 3.750. Not sure it was in the 300 bin at Worthington tractor. I wish I had hydraulic for my puller or a wrench with more leverage. I am hoping I do not need to go all out as this is mostly a puttering around type of tractor for play. It was just when it burned oil you sat in a cloud.

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Yes, block is marked C169 and it has the standard (soup can) pistons which show very little wear. Checking into what it would cost to have rods rebushed as the pistons have the 1 inch pins. Might pay for a new sleeve from CIH.

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We are just finishing up our 300. The method of madness for getting the parts is this. I went to Messick.com for the part numbers most of the time they had the numbers.  Then I googled the numbers.  Sometimes it is a crapshoot but I found the part cheaper that way. Steiner's, tractorpartsasap.com, and Ebay are a big help. This website has great people who share their experiences also!

Good luck with your 300!

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  • 1 month later...

Update on progress. Got the TA clutch put back together a few weeks ago but got stuck locating parts for engine. Ended up buying piston/sleeve, fire crater, over-bore kits from ASAP. Also bought different connecting rods that had the correct wrist pin holes. Cracked one sleeve trying to install and backed off the project while I got better measurement tools and a replacement sleeve. I purchased a two stone boring tool and used dry ice to get the sleeves in while heating the block up. The replacement sleeve was.001 smaller than the reliance ones and went in with no problems. I would test fit the sleeve and then if needed pull it and bore a bit- retest until they went in good. The deck is not true to the bore but was in range when I checked flange stand out. I used copper coat and finished up. Engine ran for 45 minutes before I retorqued the head. I have to go back and reset the valves but it is running now with about 50-60Psig oil pressure. Not sure how to post a video but have a short one on my phone. I do not have the wide front completely back on yet so I can test the TA and clutch better. More to come.

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