Spindle for 66 series. Part number request.

[stronger800 921]

I can’t navigate the parts diagrams without getting a headache. My internet is sketchy here for much beyond typing.   Have a BS 1066 in need of a left hand (clutch pedal side) spindle. Looking for a part number to order one that is correct, not the aftermarket oversized knuckle at the bottom looking one that my dealer sold me the day I took it apart because he told me he had “everything in stock”.  I think I remember there being two different spline counts on them. And I will  locate my old spindle and count it’s splines tonight, I just wanted to ask here before I even attempted to call the dealer tomorrow.  It’s a ‘76 obviously, so it has the later style “square” cast looking, original, steering arms at the top, not the older rounded style that look more like an 06/56 arm. (We have one older 1066 that does have those round style arms).  Left and right are the same correct? 

How about a part number for a left side 856 spindle as well?  Our 856 came with an aftermarket one on it, same “look” as the one I had to put on the 1066 in a pinch. I have a spare original right side spindle for an 06/56, but the key way slot in it would be pointing the wrong way if I tried placing it on the left. I think. I haven’t actually looked at one of those in a while either.  Maybe I’ll have my machine shop buddy cut another key into it, as long as the splines are symmetrical. 

Thank you. 

[Bermuda_Ken 77]

They both have the same part number now for the spindle................#196334C2.  Not cheap to buy thru the mothership, but still offered yet. 

[stronger800 921]

Having never replaced one otherwise,  were there not two different style tapers or splines back in the day? Thank you

[Sparky 244]

The steering arms are Left and Right....the spindles are universal, as far as the newer ones with splines. Buy a good aftermarket,(I prefer Hy-Capacity). As far as I know, there aren't any different spline counts.

Travis

[Nebraska1206 181]

Pretty much any spindle you get these days, be it from CaseIH or the aftermarket, will have the "oversized knuckle" appearance at the bottom.  The only way the spline count is different is if aftermarket "taper-lok" spindles are used, those usually are sold in a set that includes the mating steering arm.

[cedar farm 711]

If you have a loader or saddle tanks do not use the taperlock spindles or any other spindle made by A & I. The OEM or ones from Hy-capacity are the only one's we found that would hold up to either. Been down this path many times. Had one guy come in who actually was going to narrow up his bucket he broke so many. Had been buying them from a local tractor yard. Sent him home with a new arm, spindle and bearings. Never had a problem again.

71785c92 is the part number I remember

[stronger800 921]

I’m only going from memory, two seasons ago, but I thought the parts guy (best guy.....but now retired) asked me to remove the arm and count the splines before I went after the new one.  Sounds like that was unnecessary. 

So a guy isn’t able to buy a new one (from CNH or Hycapacity) that looks 100% correct? 

[stronger800 921]

(I did get my old one off the shelf, 24 spline). Non-farming neighbors buried animal -on- the boundary line and thought it would be a good idea to mark the space with a chunk of concrete slab they had left over from a home renovation.  First pass around the field with discbine, same path as it’s been Forever, resulted in the 1500hr rarely used 1066 running into a slab of concrete.  Had dad had been opening it up backwards, might have really hurt the mower.  Spindle didn’t break....but it bent. 

[stronger800 921]

Travis, how about the keyed 06-56 spindles? Are they the same on each side and just the arms cut different? I’ve never had one of those off, I just know there’s a half moon key in there 

[Nebraska1206 181]

45 minutes ago, stronger800 said:

Travis, how about the keyed 06-56 spindles? Are they the same on each side and just the arms cut different? I’ve never had one of those off, I just know there’s a half moon key in there 

The keyed spindles do have a left & right, because of where the keyway is cut, making it a left or right.  Most of them now have the "oversized knuckle" appearance as well

[stronger800 921]

 I’m bummed now. The ones I have look really bad, just a heavy round chunk, like the unpainted pic here. This red one looks less offensive, but still not right. Anybody have an actual pic of a recent aftermarket one? Hi capacity? 

[cedar farm 711]

Hycap did an exact copy of the late IH (no snap ring) spindle. You could even see the heat treating on it. I was the 1st to get one in our area when they came out. My Hycap rep new we were a heavy livestock area. Lots of loaders on IH's. He gave me one and asked if I could find someone to try it out. Had a local dairy that could destroy anything. I went out after work and told the farmer what was going on. He had a 100 hydro with really sloppy arms. Put a new arm and that hycap spindle. It never broke. I was sold. The other aftermarket one's always seemed tp snap by the thrust bearing. Other brands(A & I) also copied the old snap ring style which wore out the splines. Stupid idea. Tighten that big nut down on a weeny little snap ring.

Rights and lefts are the same for the splined style. Arms are R/L indexed. Always replaced the keyway style with the spline style. Of coarse after torching away the welding.

[TP from Central PA 3,170]

17 hours ago, cedar farm said:

If you have a loader or saddle tanks do not use the taperlock spindles or any other spindle made by A & I.

I never had any quality issues with A&I spindles, ones that broke were overloaded...........didn't sell many IH ones, but sold a bunch of the ones they sell for new generation Deeres with the stock top and 30 series heavier bottom for loader use.  Guys here love them, PIrlbeck on here was the one who tipped me off about them.  Previous to that the stock one from both Deere and A&I would snap under heavy loader use.  I got taper locks from A&I on my own IH's, worked just fine, even with saddle tanks.  The question I have is, if you put one from the mothership(CNH) next to an aftermarket one, could you tell any difference?  Did do a comparison on Deere ones, and honestly they were probably the same part, just different label.

[cedar farm 711]

16 minutes ago, TP from Central PA said:

I never had any quality issues with A&I spindles, ones that broke were overloaded...........didn't sell many IH ones, but sold a bunch of the ones they sell for new generation Deeres with the stock top and 30 series heavier bottom for loader use.  Guys here love them, PIrlbeck on here was the one who tipped me off about them.  Previous to that the stock one from both Deere and A&I would snap under heavy loader use.  I got taper locks from A&I on my own IH's, worked just fine, even with saddle tanks.  The question I have is, if you put one from the mothership(CNH) next to an aftermarket one, could you tell any difference?  Did do a comparison on Deere ones, and honestly they were probably the same part, just different label.

A & I is in the same town with the dealership I worked at. The guy that owned A & I sold direct to local farmers. He was the inventor of the taper lock. So we had a gazillion of those taper-locks within a 30 mile radius. The breaking was such an issue you could bring your broken spindle to his mfg division Van's machine. They would cut out and replace the broken upright. But people got sick of it and it was known locally to stay away from them. I sold from 30-50 OEM spindles a year and never had a broken one. I could have filled a crate with all the broken one's I seen over 20 years there.

We had a two tractor/combine salvage yards in town that also sold his spindles. We were an AGCO dealership as well. Same story on Oliver and Allis spindles. My cousin was breaking one a year on his 190XT with a miller loader. Always the same side. An A & I one he had put on to replace one where the wheel bearing tore it up. Got him an OEM one. Problem solved.

As far as difference. At a CaseIH trade fair down in St Louis one year they had 3 or 4 aftermarket and 1 oem spindle upright chopped. The oem was hardened to within the size if a pencil in the middle. The aftermarkets were just regular steel all the way thru.

Guys would usually come to me for the wheel and thrust bearing. I would casually ask if they had trouble. That's when I get them into a good spindle. The sad thing was the farmer always blamed himself. Which was B.S. It was a bad product.

The local name for A & I was "Almost Identical" 

[stronger800 921]

I’m holding off on calling dealer, since I still can’t tell if you guys are saying the new IH ones, or new high capacity  ones “look” correct. 

[cedar farm 711]

16 minutes ago, stronger800 said:

I’m holding off on calling dealer, since I still can’t tell if you guys are saying the new IH ones, or new high capacity  ones “look” correct. 

Either OEM CIH or Hy-caps will be equally as good. I sold both with zero issues. A Hycap will run you 187.00. OEM CaseIH is around 500.00. Just make sure you put on a new steering arm, thrust bearing and felt. Wouldn't hurt to check the wheel bearings and upright bushings as well.

Mike

[TP from Central PA 3,170]

1 hour ago, cedar farm said:

A & I is in the same town with the dealership I worked at. The guy that owned A & I sold direct to local farmers. He was the inventor of the taper lock. So we had a gazillion of those taper-locks within a 30 mile radius. The breaking was such an issue you could bring your broken spindle to his mfg division Van's machine. They would cut out and replace the broken upright. But people got sick of it and it was known locally to stay away from them. I sold from 30-50 OEM spindles a year and never had a broken one. I could have filled a crate with all the broken one's I seen over 20 years there.

We had a two tractor/combine salvage yards in town that also sold his spindles. We were an AGCO dealership as well. Same story on Oliver and Allis spindles. My cousin was breaking one a year on his 190XT with a miller loader. Always the same side. An A & I one he had put on to replace one where the wheel bearing tore it up. Got him an OEM one. Problem solved.

As far as difference. At a CaseIH trade fair down in St Louis one year they had 3 or 4 aftermarket and 1 oem spindle upright chopped. The oem was hardened to within the size if a pencil in the middle. The aftermarkets were just regular steel all the way thru.

Guys would usually come to me for the wheel and thrust bearing. I would casually ask if they had trouble. That's when I get them into a good spindle. The sad thing was the farmer always blamed himself. Which was B.S. It was a bad product.

The local name for A & I was "Almost Identical" 

Where do they source them from now that Deere owns it?  TA's were coming from Hy-Capacity for example? 

[stronger800 921]

Tractor has 1600 hr on it. We’ve ran ten of these four 40 years and have  only ever broken one, knock on wood.  I keep things greased and tight. Won’t be buying any new parts, as it doesn’t need them. Quality isn’t a concern (too a point), but want it to look correct. 

[stronger800 921]

I put new bushings in one with 10k hours on it once.  Wasted effort.  They were not more than 5% worn, as seen by setting new bushings on the old ones. 

Grease works ehh. 

[Nebraska1206 181]

3 minutes ago, stronger800 said:

Tractor has 1600 hr on it. We’ve ran ten of these four 40 years and have  only ever broken one, knock on wood.  I keep things greased and tight. Won’t be buying any new parts, as it doesn’t need them. Quality isn’t a concern (too a point), but want it to look correct. 

If you're after the "correct" look, and don't want the appearance of the "oversized knuckle" at the bottom, I don't know of anyone that manufactures them without the "oversized knuckle" appearance, honestly.

[stronger800 921]

So would Hy-capacity “look” right or not?

you typed faster than me. Thank you. 

So now I have to ask my RPF guys who was a used one.?

[cedar farm 711]

5 minutes ago, TP from Central PA said:

Where do they source them from now that Deere owns it?  TA's were coming from Hy-Capacity for example? 

They were made in Rock valley at the Van's Machine division. I haven't heard that has changed. Unfortunately John Deere has been sourcing some of their parts from A & I. 5-6 years ago I needed to replace my fan/elevator drive jackshaft on my 6620 combine. It's a bugger of a job. About 100.00 difference between Deere and A & I. Ordered one from Deere. The @#$% shaft had a John Deere sticker right on top of an A & I sticker. And typical A & I, I had to file on the splines to get the new sheave to fit. I was livid. The dealer would do nothing. 

[cedar farm 711]

1 minute ago, stronger800 said:

So would Hy-capacity “look” right or not?

Both hycap and the oem have the beefed up foot area. If the splines are bad on one side, the other one can't be far behind. Replace them both.

[stronger800 921]

your really  missing my point.

[TP from Central PA 3,170]

2 minutes ago, cedar farm said:

They were made in Rock valley at the Van's Machine division. I haven't heard that has changed. Unfortunately John Deere has been sourcing some of their parts from A & I. 5-6 years ago I needed to replace my fan/elevator drive jackshaft on my 6620 combine. It's a bugger of a job. About 100.00 difference between Deere and A & I. Ordered one from Deere. The @#$% shaft had a John Deere sticker right on top of an A & I sticker. And typical A & I, I had to file on the splines to get the new sheave to fit. I was livid. The dealer would do nothing. 

John Deere OWNS A&I and has for some time.............parts for the green ones are most definitely the same, I picked up parts at the warehouse while it was still here in town, so did any close Deere Dealers.............Only difference was the stickers.