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Picked up a TD-9B about a year ago with a decent undercarriage. Came with a parts machine with a pretty messed up rail that had sat for years.

https://streamable.com/wofuef

Finally getting about to fixing the dozer this winter so it can help with some barn building. Engine clutch is soaked from transmission input seal and the release is damaged. One steering clutch is wet from the final and one sticks a little so will be cleaning those up. Turbo is shot and dumping oil into the intake, will also be pulling the head to inspect as it's a d282. Should make for a good winter project and I figured I'd likely need to solicit advice :D

Having difficulty in locating a pressure plate assembly for this machine. Any suggestions from anyone?

Bonus points if you can spot the issue in the pictures causing he input leak :D

 

 

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I got the clutch removed today, have gear oil in all sorts of new places. Input shaft nut had somehow fallen off which is why the clutch housing was full of oil, pressure plate is pretty toast as is the input clutch coupling.

Is that a drain plug on the bellhousing hidden somewhere on this machine? Going to really suck to clean off the flywheel/bellhousing if there isn't a drain.

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Louis would know, that a really clean parts machine you have there, looks like it’s a gear machine also❤️

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Farmtruck, those are nice machines. There is a drain plug located on the right side of the bellhousing, you may have to jack the tractor up a little to get under there, if the tractor has the belly pan guard you will need to remove it to get to the plug. The pressure plate is rebuildable if you can find the parts, there was a kit available at one time. Try FP Smith in Fairfield, CA. Attached is a parts breakdown of your clutch with part numbers to help you in your search for parts. Associated tractor in Stockton is another source for used parts for IH crawlers. Engine clutch, transmission, brake and steering clutch parts from earlier TD9's also work, 91 and 92 series parts are interchangeable. Check the top of this Construction Equipment page for listings of other salvage yards.

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On 10/29/2020 at 12:12 AM, hardtail said:

Louis would know, that a really clean parts machine you have there, looks like it’s a gear machine also❤️

The parts machine is much rougher than it looks, but it does have some good stuff on it. It's a powershift though so no usable transmission parts there :(

 

15 hours ago, louie figone said:

Farmtruck, those are nice machines. There is a drain plug located on the right side of the bellhousing, you may have to jack the tractor up a little to get under there, if the tractor has the belly pan guard you will need to remove it to get to the plug. The pressure plate is rebuildable if you can find the parts, there was a kit available at one time. Try FP Smith in Fairfield, CA. Attached is a parts breakdown of your clutch with part numbers to help you in your search for parts. Associated tractor in Stockton is another source for used parts for IH crawlers. Engine clutch, transmission, brake and steering clutch parts from earlier TD9's also work, 91 and 92 series parts are interchangeable. Check the top of this Construction Equipment page for listings of other salvage yards.

I found the drain plug, or rather the plugged up drain minus the plug. Tight fit without removing the pan.  Got the whole mess cleaned out with several cans of brake cleaner and some diesel. Looks like the flywheel can only be removed by separating the engine first? It's in surprisingly good shape, but won't be 100% clean unless I can remove it.

I have the parts book, but there are several useful annotations in yours :D FP smith says they can get parts for a rebuild, but still looking for good used units. Will try Associated tractor tomorrow. Thanks!

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Farmtruck, the flywheel can come out through the housing if you grind away part of the casting, not something I would do but I have heard of others that have done it. If you can get the cerametallic clutch disc facing do it, they last a lot longer and take less pressure on the handle for engaging. Ya, I mark my books up quite a bit.

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On 10/30/2020 at 9:06 AM, Redwood said:

When you call Associated Tractor ask for Tom - Owner

Called them Friday, hopefully they'll turn something up!

On 10/30/2020 at 11:04 AM, louie figone said:

Farmtruck, the flywheel can come out through the housing if you grind away part of the casting, not something I would do but I have heard of others that have done it. If you can get the cerametallic clutch disc facing do it, they last a lot longer and take less pressure on the handle for engaging. Ya, I mark my books up quite a bit.

Oh, yeah I don't think I'll be doing that. I like to resurface every flywheel, but I may just leave this one alone as it's in pretty good shape. Still debating the pressure plate style, those puck style metal clutches are pretty hard on flywheels 😕

Pulled off the turbo which was leaking into both intake and exhaust. Looks to be in good shape minus seals, will start looking for parts on that tomorrow as well... Pulled the exhaust manifold as well to confirm turbo was the leak and not wet stacking. Have decided not to pull the head as the turbo and a leaking injector are the likely smoke culprits.

 

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On 11/2/2020 at 4:48 PM, Rawleigh99 said:

General Gear has the TD9/TD91 clutch shaft and coupler (R1 versus R11)  I don't know if you can make them work or not.  They also have the clutch disk, but it is ceramic, I think.

http://www.tpaktopc.net/td9strcltch.htm

Thanks I've spoken when them. They do have couplers and clutch discs, but none of the other parts I need. Looks like I've found a used clutch unit, and failing that I have found the parts I'd need new to rebuild my clutch assembly. Just waiting on prices before I make up my mind.

Haven't had much time to work on this between paying jobs, but I did get in a new turbo cartridge (mine was too shot for a simple reseal). FIgured the part number might be of use to someone out there as it took me a while to track down.

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13 hours ago, louie figone said:

You got into it pretty good, be sure you mark the drum to the pinion shaft flange, the holes are not evenly spaced. Keep us updated we like to see progress being made. Your doing it right.

Will do, anything else to watch out for? Service manual is a little vague on the removal process. Might be a day or two before I get back into the steering clutches.

The winch if I remember correctly is a 20 ton Carco. Works great minus a little gear oil seepage. Hopefully I don't ever get hung up on it.

Brake bands are out. Had some real fun removing a couple of the pins. One band is pretty greased and one was on too tight and smoked a few pads. Will have to reline.

Service manual sucks when it comes to removing the brake pivot shaft. Says you knock it towards the machine center with a drift, which you can't do on this machine as it will hit the track braces. A 1/2 20NF bolt can be threaded into the pivot pin from the outside and then removed with a slide hammer...

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The pivot pins have notches aproxmently 1/4 inch apart, remove the threaded plug, after you remove the threaded locking pin that holds the pivot pin you can remove the pin using a screwdriver by sliding the pin out by the notches, my 9B and 62 series TD6 are this way. 

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Got the left steering drum out and was thinking to myself "that wasn't bad at all". So of course the right drum decided to snub me. 

Release bearing was shot and seems it wore through the spring retainer. When I went to remove the inner bolts the retainer failed and the spring expanded.

Any good ideas on getting this damn thing compressed again or is this just going to be a shitty process?

 

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I had one of them out on a 92 series years ago. I didn't know what it meant to stake the big nut and put it back in and that nut backed off and everything came apart. Don't remember what I did, but I got it out and working again. It was 45 years ago so I can't remember what I did. If it was last month I'd have a better chance.

DWF

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20 hours ago, DWF said:

I had one of them out on a 92 series years ago. I didn't know what it meant to stake the big nut and put it back in and that nut backed off and everything came apart. Don't remember what I did, but I got it out and working again. It was 45 years ago so I can't remember what I did. If it was last month I'd have a better chance.

DWF

Yeah I bet that was almost as much fun as I've had :D

Got the damn thing out today after much cajoling. Looks like I'll need a spring retainer. Should be able to start ordering parts tomorrow for the rear.

 

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10 hours ago, Rawleigh99 said:

Nice idea on the clips!  Looks like a lot of work!

Thanks, it was a real pain getting it out with a broken retainer.

1 hour ago, hector gemme said:

I am still have some used TD9 parts if can help

Have any spring retainers?

I think I lucked out on the steering clutch discs. These don't look like fiber. I think I can clean off bimetallic and re-use? Anyone know the specs for thickness on the metal plates and the friction discs?

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