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784 Coolant Filter


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I'm replacing the radiator in the 784 and was thinking about adding a coolant filter as well.  From looking at the parts diagram, the factory option ran out of the water pump carrier to one of the block off plates under the exhaust manifold.  I was wondering if the plug on the side of the block above the starter was a water plug and if so, could one plumb into this plug and the plug on the water pump carrier?  I removed the ether start kit because there is no telling the last time it actually had a can installed, I was worried about dirty air being sucked in through the tube, and the tractor starts good at 40F when I tried last winter.  If it gets too cold, I'm not going outside any way.  Where the ether kit was installed to me would be a handy place for the filter head and keep the coolant lines away from the exhaust manifold.

I didn't take a good picture of the plug.  This was before I removed the ether kit.

 

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That is the block coolant drain plug. That is where a recirculating coolant heater input is installed here in the northern climates.
The filter has to be installed so that there is higher pressure on the input port side and lower pressure on the out port side to ensure that a portion of the coolant flows thru the filter.

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A Coolant filter is irrelevant if you service the system regularly it won't need one  Don't waste your time putting a filter on that model

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18 minutes ago, andrewn269 said:

It helps keep a charge in the system to prevent electrolysis 

On that particular tractor you won't see no advantage and electrolysis is a mute point but do as you wish 

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The coolant filter isn't a filter at all.  It's just a device to put additives into the cooling system.  The "filter" has conditioner in it that dissolves over time. 

The coolant we use now days has these additives in it already, but didn't back then.  Also keep in mind coolant needs changed out every 5 years (or so) or at xxx many hours to replace the additives and keep the system clean.  This has actually always been the case, it was just ignored.  (As a note, your cars brake fluid also has a change interval.  Look it up.)  Adding a coolant filter is completely unnecessary just like ksfarmdude said.

On the subject of antifreeze, I learned a lot from a guy that I purchased recycled antifreeze from when I had my shop.  He told me O'Reilly's had about the best green antifreeze on the market.  Their private label green standard antifreeze had lots of good conditioners in it.  That was what he used to bring glycol levels up when his product was low.  Recycled antifreeze is good stuff.  Glycol doesn't go bad so it can be reclaimed and reused.  He bought my used antifreeze, recycled it and sold it back to me.  I got paid based on glycol content.  Usually around $.25/gal and bought it back in a 50/50 premix for about $1.50/gal.  It was a great deal! 

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Recycled.... that makes a lot of sense, although I’ve never heard of it here in the northeast.  My friends with waste oil furnaces would love to have that option as it seems somebody is always giving them a barrel or tote of oil that has a layer of coolant in the bottom. 

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X2 what J-Mech said about modern antifreeze.
I had a 1999 Buick LeSabre with a 3.8L V6 with the GM coolant in it and I was advised by a long time GM Mechanic to have the system flushed and coolant changed every 5 years and I would have no problems. I had the car for 15 years and no coolant leaks but friends had the same car and even newer model years and most had coolant leaks at the intake manifold because they never change the GM coolant at the recommend times. Maybe I was just lucky.
 

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57 minutes ago, jimb2 said:

X2 what J-Mech said about modern antifreeze.
I had a 1999 Buick LeSabre with a 3.8L V6 with the GM coolant in it and I was advised by a long time GM Mechanic to have the system flushed and coolant changed every 5 years and I would have no problems. I had the car for 15 years and no coolant leaks but friends had the same car and even newer model years and most had coolant leaks at the intake manifold because they never change the GM coolant at the recommend times. Maybe I was just lucky.
 

Changing the antifreeze was the reason you didn't have gasket issues.  That early dexcool had something in it that ate gaskets once it broke down.  They changed the formula and it did seem to help.  When I had the shop, any time we tore down an engine with dexcool, we flushed the system and went back with standard green.  I'm still not excited about dexcool. 

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Whether it is a filter or not, I have a WIX 24019 installation kit, cast iron base, complete with a 524088 cartridge shipped to me on 18 MAR 16.

Never installed has not had antifreeze in it.

I was going to install it on the 464/D179 but decided after all these years with no issues why bother.

Complete in original  box and small parts with an instruction sheet.

If someone  still wants one send me a PM for the good deal.

I believe WIX does have a strainer filter without the chemical for this base.

 

 

 

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10 minutes ago, J-Mech said:

Changing the antifreeze was the reason you didn't have gasket issues.  That early dexcool had something in it that ate gaskets once it broke down.  They changed the formula and it did seem to help.  When I had the shop, any time we tore down an engine with dexcool, we flushed the system and went back with standard green.  I'm still not excited about dexcool. 

Yea don't every ever mix the two types of antifreeze either it will turn into looking like curdled milk

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2 hours ago, ksfarmdude said:

Yea don't every ever mix the two types of antifreeze either it will turn into looking like curdled milk

The old formula would for sure.  I think the newer stuff will mix, but I still wouldn't mix them. 

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On 10/23/2020 at 11:04 AM, oleman said:

Whether it is a filter or not, I have a WIX 24019 installation kit, cast iron base, complete with a 524088 cartridge shipped to me on 18 MAR 16.

Never installed has not had antifreeze in it.

I was going to install it on the 464/D179 but decided after all these years with no issues why bother.

Complete in original  box and small parts with an instruction sheet.

If someone  still wants one send me a PM for the good deal.

I believe WIX does have a strainer filter without the chemical for this base.

 

 

 

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The Wix 24070 is a coolant filter only, no DCA.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Whether its needed or not, I put in a Baldwin CFB5000 filter base on the ether bracket with a Baldwin B5134 filter which is claimed to be a 20 micron filter with no additive.  I plumbed it into the areas I asked about and the flow is right.  Filter in is out the block.  Filter out is the water pump carrier housing.  With the amount of rust I flushed out of the system, I feel better about it being on there.  If I remember,  I'll cut it open in the spring when I change oil and see if anything is in the filter.

She also got a new radiator, hoses, clamps and fresh ELC.  Plus a salvaged radiator shroud which was missing.  Its crazy with the shroud how much air is now pulled through the radiator.   A paper towel will suck on the radiator like your driving down the highway. 

I'll put a clamp on the hose next to the intake manifold and wrap it where it touches.

 

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The air intake tube you have laying upside down over the valve cover is supposed to go up over the radiator and point forward. 

Yes, fan shrouds are on radiators for good reason.  No surprises about it having better air movement.

How much coolant do you think will get filtered through that tiny hose? 

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Just an added cost and more places to leak coolant from unless you never service your cooling system again its a waste of money

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7 hours ago, J-Mech said:

The air intake tube you have laying upside down over the valve cover is supposed to go up over the radiator and point forward. 

Yes, fan shrouds are on radiators for good reason.  No surprises about it having better air movement.

How much coolant do you think will get filtered through that tiny hose? 

I'll turn the intake tube around.  Its been like that since I bought the tractor, didn't realize it was backwards.

It's a bypass filter with an orifice to control flow.  The hose has no affect on the amount of coolant flowing through the filter. 

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1 hour ago, jason812 said:

I'll turn the intake tube around.  Its been like that since I bought the tractor, didn't realize it was backwards.

It's a bypass filter with an orifice to control flow.  The hose has no affect on the amount of coolant flowing through the filter. 

There is a baffle on the hood that the air intake fits in to help shield debris from entering the air cleaner housing.

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1 hour ago, jason812 said:

It's a bypass filter with an orifice to control flow.  The hose has no affect on the amount of coolant flowing through the filter. 

I know how they work.  My point was it was a waste of time to install.  They don't do anything to improve coolant life or quality.  I'm not convinced one way or the other on using the conditioner.  The antifreeze available now is pretty good stuff. My opinion is based off a career as a mechanic working on farm, heavy equipment, trucks and auto out of an independent shop I owned.  I'm not just some guy who likes to fix my own tractors. But, as I always like to say: It's your tractor, your time and your money.  You can do whatever you want with it.

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