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1989 Ford F350. 7.3D

The fitting is plastic and seems pretty soft.

Put a half inch wrench on the flats and it doesn't want to turn out. I do not want to bugger it up as it is running now.

Fuel leak is bad juju and needs repaired

Any education will be appreciated

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3 minutes ago, sandhiller said:

1989 Ford F350. 7.3D

The fitting is plastic and seems pretty soft.

Put a half inch wrench on the flats and it doesn't want to turn out. I do not want to bugger it up as it is running now.

Fuel leak is bad juju and needs repaired

Any education will be appreciated

IMG_20200929_101710029.thumb.jpg.33f003554959e7badce08bb30f52d81b.jpg

IMG_20201015_160011280.thumb.jpg.222a5dbc95a784ae66a2313c1ae22aee.jpg

IMG_20201015_160033768.thumb.jpg.526275be8949c883ad78695f720d7e52.jpg

Is it like our dodges, rubber gasket between the bowl and the top? 

It looks like slow weeping what about a new filter and reapplying the bowl.

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1 minute ago, Dasnake said:

Is it like our dodges, rubber gasket between the bowl and the top? 

It looks like slow weeping what about a new filter and reapplying the bowl.

Nope, spin on filter and it is coming out of that fitting on top ( fuel filter heater maybe?)

But thanks for playin'😃

Shoulda drawed the arrow thingy pointing to the leaking offender but trying to get ready for Fire Mtg................

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2 minutes ago, Ihfan4life said:

What about sticking a flat blade screwdriver into it and turn it out? 

The electric spade in the middle would probably break off. But I could try to find a screwdriver that might fit. If it is a fuel heater it would not be missed that much as it doesn't driven in winter that much. 

Want to do it right the first time as C4 needs to be up and ready to go at a moments notice. Can't risk it being down to a screwup on my part. 

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Might be a water sensor? Wonder what the chance it has NPT threads and you could plug it off?

Have you tried YouTube?

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41 minutes ago, sandhiller said:

Nope, spin on filter and it is coming out of that fitting on top ( fuel filter heater maybe?)

But thanks for playin'😃

Shoulda drawed the arrow thingy pointing to the leaking offender but trying to get ready for Fire Mtg................

Ohhh, well then Alex, I’ll take “I dunno”

for 300.00.......

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We have popped it out after filter is removed then tapped hole with 1/2" pipe thread tap and install plug from the bottom, as long as you dont need the heater. A little hard to keep tap straight and square in hole from bottom going up but can be done.

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6 hours ago, hardtail said:

Might be a water sensor? Wonder what the chance it has NPT threads and you could plug it off?

Have you tried YouTube?

Thinking water sensor would be on bottom like my Cummins but with spin on filter that is not an option. Water in fuel seems logical. Hoping to hear from someone who has had this problem before and had a fix. Havent tried youtube. Just hit submit reply with the "red arrow" post when fire page went off. Close and a good grass fire so made it home in time to make monthly mtg. Need to research more. It is running so will not mess with it until I know for sure what I am doing. Red flag conditions every day so cannot afford to be down for a minute, 

5 hours ago, 1958560 said:

We have popped it out after filter is removed then tapped hole with 1/2" pipe thread tap and install plug from the bottom, as long as you dont need the heater. A little hard to keep tap straight and square in hole from bottom going up but can be done.

So, it is a push in??? Thought maybe jam nut up from bottom. If I need to tap and plug that would be ok. Just need to be sure it is a quick and successful fix before I attempt it. With my luck page would go off half way through procedure. HOping it will last until we get some moisture and fire conditions improve. 

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12 minutes ago, jass1660 said:

Always need the heater in there as wax develops from the fuel regardless of temperature. 

If there isn't a heater how would this wax disappear on a dodge? Do fass systems remove this wax? My fass system has a port to install a heater but in our climate is that need?

Thanx.

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10 minutes ago, jass1660 said:

Always need the heater in there as wax develops from the fuel regardless of temperature. 

True and good point, really would like to fix it right.

Can't afford to plug a filter at a critical time. 

It seems strange to most but am thinking about switching out my wildland gear for bunker gear in the truck. 

Hard to believe you can get cold fighting a grass fire, but this time of year it happens. Mopping up this afternoon it was damn chilly.

But, yeah, I agree, need to keep the htr operational. 

So, could it push in from the top and be held in place by a nut on the underside of the housing top???

Wouldn't take that long to spin filter off, just like to know ahead of time what to expect

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Dasnake said:

If there isn't a heater how would this wax disappear on a dodge? Do fass systems remove this wax? My fass system has a port to install a heater but in our climate is that need?

Thanx.

There is a heater on a Dodge OEM filter housing, at least my Gen II anyway

Not sure about the Fass

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32 minutes ago, sandhiller said:

There is a heater on a Dodge OEM filter housing, at least my Gen II anyway

Not sure about the Fass

I did the delete, I'll check later on, good to know with winter comin on.

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Here is info I found on a ford truck site.


Once the filter adapter is removed........right hand thread.

The heater comes out as a whole but has two halves.

Remove the complete stainless and plastic parts by pushing down (in) on the neck part that protrudes from the filter header.

You will now see a shiny stainless half and a plastic half, you will be able take the two halves apart carefully. There is a stainless spade connector protruding through the plastic neck. This is the connector to the heater wire on the top side of the filter header. On the spade connector there is a (locking tab) small piece that is bent out to secure it in place. Squeeze this piece straight and push the spade down through the neck. The stainless spade body part should seperate from the plastic portion of the assy to reveal a second o-ring. This oring causes the seal from the spade body to the inside of the plastic neck.

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It is the F2tz9b249a Fuel Filter Housing Heater Element 9J294 for Ford 7.3L IDI Diesel

It is installed coming up from the bottom.

See it here. https://www.ebay.com/itm/F2tz9b249a-Fuel-Filter-Housing-Heater-Element-9J294-for-Ford-7-3L-IDI-Diesel/203037829798?epid=8033610807&hash=item2f45ff6aa6%3Ag%3AzUUAAOSw9EtefqNM&fits=Year%3A1989|Model%3AF-250|Make%3AFord

 

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2 hours ago, WishIhada1466 said:

Remove the complete stainless and plastic parts by pushing down (in) on the neck part that protrudes from the filter header.

 

2 hours ago, Diesel Doctor said:

It is installed coming up from the bottom.

That is what I needed to know

Oring is leaking, might test to see if heater is still good, if not the one on Ebay is not too much. Might even check with Rock Auto as jass suggested

Thanks Christian and DD

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Google the filter number for a head unit for it. Your local Napa might even have that in stock. Or if they are any good they could order one in from the filter number without the heater. Hope you can get it fixed fast and easy without a page 

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8 minutes ago, edwardporter1 said:

had a hairline crack in housing. would lose prime on a 94 7.3 diesel. replaced housing  then good to go

This has always been a hard starting pig.

Thinking air was coming in here before (when it sat), now bad enough that fuel is going out. (when running)

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If I remember right, remove filter and then remove the adapter nut that filter screws onto. Then push it thru the housing. We're up in SD and haven't had trouble without the heater during winter, just run #1 during coldest months

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The heater isn’t for heating the fuel the truck Has to start before it would even start the element warming up. If it was for heating the fuel it would be in the tank It’s in the filter to try to keep the moisture from accumulating

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Yup, Fuel filter heater connector.  Keeps fuel from gelling. You can tap the hole to 1/2” and put a brass pipe plug in it according to my diesel mechanic buddy who has a couple IDI 7.3 trucks. He says it probably hasn’t worked in a long time knowing those things. 

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