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1020 wobble box bearing


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6 minutes ago, TeachersPet1066 said:

Found that bearing is shot on 1020 at the wobble box (circled below).

Parts ordered coming on Friday.

Old post from 2006 said left hand thread & a bear to get off.

Any insight on replacing this bearing?

 

6BE6C1C5-6780-4F1F-9B3A-A38DA10D503A.jpeg

Hardest part will be unscrewing the pulley since its threaded on the shaft other than that its pretty simple 

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When I had to do those. The biggest air wrench in the shop was 700 foot pounds. They have twice that now. Might work. Wouldn't bet on it. It took tough wrenches long cheater bars and multiple people to get job done. And this is one cast wheel you can not use heat on.

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I have had much better luck with the long bar over the impact wrench. I put in the vise clamping to the arm that the sickle attaches to. Then slide some iron between the arm and the main bracket so it can not swing through a complete cycle. Long pipe and a steady pull and usually they will come loose without to much fuss. I have never had any issues heating the pulley but not sure it did that much good either. The bounce of the impact wrench seemed to chew up the corners of the nut that is built into the pulley. I have 810 headers so the pulley is to the inside. If your pulley is to the outside which I believe the 1020 is you might try blocking the arm and removing the pulley before taking the wobble box off the header. Would be a lot more stabile and solid than in a vise.

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I agree with taking the pulley off before removing the wobble box.  We made a big spanner wrench that went in the spokes of the pulley, then you put a cheater pipe on it. Worked really good.  Then I usually just torched the bearings out, let it cool cleaned it up and put it back together.  

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2 minutes ago, J-Mech said:

I agree with taking the pulley off before removing the wobble box.  We made a big spanner wrench that went in the spokes of the pulley, then you put a cheater pipe on it. Worked really good.  Then I usually just torched the bearings out, let it cool cleaned it up and put it back together.  

Never had that option. They just brought the boxes in. Usually with at least one spoke broke from heat.

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29 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

Never had that option. They just brought the boxes in. Usually with at least one spoke broke from heat.

I've seen those too, lol. 

Did you ever rebuild any oil bath units?  I'm not sure which I hated more. 

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15 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

Never had that pleasure.

Seal would go out, oil would drain and then they welded themselves together.  It was a real treat, and usually the housing was about all that was left. 

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23 minutes ago, Vinny407 said:

I am not sure if this is quite the same as the box on the 820’s, but we always  cut/wash the bearing out first With the torch. That makes the pulley finger tight.

I thought the pulley tightens against the shoulder on the shaft ? 

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4 minutes ago, ksfarmdude said:

I thought the pulley tightens against the shoulder on the shaft ? 

I remember the bearing being between the shoulder and the pulley, but it has been 20 years since I did one.  

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1 hour ago, Vinny407 said:

I remember the bearing being between the shoulder and the pulley, but it has been 20 years since I did one.  

I don't think so. 

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On 10/14/2020 at 10:43 PM, IHC_1470 said:

you might try blocking the arm and removing the pulley before taking the wobble box off the header.

I have it stable but neighbor who sells tools got me a knew breaker bar because dads old cheap one is looking like an S.  I tried for about 20 minutes and decided to walk away until I got my new breaker bar and impact socket.

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