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Fuel injection pump help Roosa-Master DCGFC 627-25AJ


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I'm looking for information on this fuel injection pump for my DT-429.

Roosa-Master DCGFC 627-25AJ

I'm not getting any fuel to my fuel lines when turning the engine over. 

 

I have bypassed the fuel tank due to questionable fuel quality and there is an electric lift pump supplying clean diesel to the injection pump. I can confirm fuel is getting to the injection pump but there is no pressure coming to the fuel lines when turning over. 

 

Is there a fuel shut off that I may have overlooked? 

 

The throttle linkage has been set to various positions when cranking over and still no flow. 

 

I was told the machine was running a few months ago, hansnt been touched since. 

 

Any ideas? 

IMG_20201006_155339.jpg

IMG_20201006_155458.jpg

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  • International3964 changed the title to Fuel injection pump help Roosa-Master DCGFC 627-25AJ
3 minutes ago, International3964 said:

I've found a photo of the back side of the pump. Is the ring I have circled the fuel shut off? 

 

Having a real time trying to figure this one out... 

 

Screenshot_20201007_120651.jpg

Shutoff could be there but is configured to shutoff with throttle lever

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betting it's been sitting in old fuel, and now one or more of a few things are going on. Metering valve stuck, this shuts off with the throttle lever. Pumping plungers stuck, or it's seized. Now, just because you may be able to get it running by forcing it, many times they end up seizing after all. The DC pump is a very rare pump now day ,so I always try to encourage extreme caution when awakening one from retirement. The pump isn't happy running in sticky old fuel. My parts supply to fix these is running low and that makes them more expensive. Saving it before you seize it up, is a lot less expensive.

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I just got done overhauling one off a 220 Allice Chalmers.

The metering valve was not stuck, but super gummy. It would barely move.

The advance piston, weight retainer and all steel inside was rusty.

All four rollers, shoes and pistons were free.

Delivery valve spring was not broken nor were the transfer pump blade springs.

Of course governor weight retainer ring was gone.

Damn government with their new fuel recipe.

Please, use the Stanadyne fuel conditioner in any diesel.

It is good stuff and will save you from a costly overhaul.

A friends 856 pumping plungers stuck in a year, after a pump overhaul and the tractor sat inside the whole time.

This is the fuel interacting with the materials in the pump that causes all this.

The Stanadyne stuff will help prevent this.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I made a short video of my attempt to start this thing. Is there anything I'm doing wrong or missing? The first attempt I didn't engage the throttle enough however I did the second time. Every time I attempt to start I move the throttle to wide open. 

Can you see anything wrong here? I was told the machine ran a few months ago. To me it's looking like a pump rebuild, but that's going to cost me between $1000-$3000... The machine is in an auction yard and needs to be moved sooner than later. I'm still hoping it's something stupid I'm missing... 

 

The pump shaft is spinning, I checked the fuel inlet screen and it was perfectly clean. 

 

Any help is appreciated! 

(cranking it over like that isn't easy on the batteries but I let it cool down before next attempt) 

 

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1 hour ago, International3964 said:

I made a short video of my attempt to start this thing. Is there anything I'm doing wrong or missing? The first attempt I didn't engage the throttle enough however I did the second time. Every time I attempt to start I move the throttle to wide open. 

Can you see anything wrong here? I was told the machine ran a few months ago. To me it's looking like a pump rebuild, but that's going to cost me between $1000-$3000... The machine is in an auction yard and needs to be moved sooner than later. I'm still hoping it's something stupid I'm missing... 

 

The pump shaft is spinning, I checked the fuel inlet screen and it was perfectly clean. 

 

Any help is appreciated! 

(cranking it over like that isn't easy on the batteries but I let it cool down before next attempt) 

 

You can pull the pump of and clean and reseal it for 50$ for seal kit  be a simple way to start

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If the metering valve is free and the rotor is not seized, then:

I wonder if a person brought the pump to TDC with the timing lines aligned, and remove the bolt from the #1 line.

Then look in and verify the rotor port is aligned with #1.

Then air time it with as much air pressure that you can get.

With any luck, that will force the pumping plungers, rollers and shoes out against the cam ring.

Would only take about 15 minutes and may be enough to get it to loose and back running.

Agree/Disagree?

 

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3 hours ago, Diesel Doctor said:

If the metering valve is free and the rotor is not seized, then:

I wonder if a person brought the pump to TDC with the timing lines aligned, and remove the bolt from the #1 line.

Then look in and verify the rotor port is aligned with #1.

Then air time it with as much air pressure that you can get.

With any luck, that will force the pumping plungers, rollers and shoes out against the cam ring.

Would only take about 15 minutes and may be enough to get it to loose and back running.

Agree/Disagree?

 

tried that on a 4 yr setting with no luck,been soaking in pail of atf since

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Make sure the return line is not plugged. In fact take the top cover off and try it. It will run with the top cover off. The return fuel will spill out onto the ground. With the cover off you should be able to check if the metering valve is stuck.

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Thank you all for the information, I very much appreciate it. 

I tried to pull the head off the pump last time I was out in the field (these things never die in your back yard haha). 

The screws are pretty old and will take a great deal of care to remove, but I'm very curious to inspect the metering valve. If the valve spins freely with the throttle, I'll have to assume it's stuck plungers. 

 

I've got a rebuild kit ordered but shipping these days is deplorable at best... Looking like another month until it arrives. 

 

Worst case I'll pull the pump and take it to a shop tomorrow. 

 

Again I very much appreciate all of the feedback, you have hopefully pointed me in the right direction! 

 

I have been reading up on these pumps non stop and feel confident I could tear one down and reassemble, it's just an issue of time now. 

 

I'll absolutely post back with photos on my progress. 

 

Hopefully my injectors aren't too gummed up... That will be the next thing 😂

 

Thanks again and happy Thanksgiving! 

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Well guys, I'm very happy to share I've got the engine running! 

 

As several of you suggested, the metering valve was in fact stuck. I removed the top of the injection pump and sure enough, the metering valve was gummed up and sticky. I simply moved it with my finger back and fourth until it was smooth. 

 

Once the metering valve was freed up, I noticed moving the throttle still didn't engage the valve, but I made a quick call to a local repair shop and they said that's normal. 

Honestly, even once the metering valve was freed I wasn't hopeful that it would pump, because the entire throttle mechanism inside the pump had a lot of play, everything was quite loose. But I figured it was worth a shot and sealed it back up. Sure enough after a few cranks it began to spit fuel. I blead the lines and tightened everything up and it started after about three cranks. I gave it a very small shot of ether, but it took off right away. 

 

Still lots of work ahead of me since the oil is a milkshake (assuming blown head) but I was able to order a gasket ($800 CAD to the door 😂). 

 

I'll keep everyone updated with my progress. I noticed the crankshaft seal is shot. These 429s are pretty rare these days, sourcing parts should be fun. Hopefully it doesn't need much once the gaskets replaced! 

 

Again, thanks for all the info. You guys saved me anywhere between $1000-3000 for a pump rebuild. 

 

 

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