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roosa master pump on 806


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I have ran into a situation, the tractor starts amd about a minute later is slowly looses rpms and dies. I have good fuel flow to the pump. I was reading something about a return check valve, is it part of the t on the top of the pump? Is there a way to check it?

Thanks

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806 with roosy originaly had jiggle wire and recirculation line. I'm sure it has check valve by now. It is the fitting under the tee. Save your self some time. Shut fuel off at tank. Loosen screws at timing window .slowly drain fuel from pump. Remove cover from window. If you find black pieces sitting in window. Remove and reseal pump.

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Yes the flex ring is bad inside the pump and it will need to be gone through . If you need to use it right now , just take the return fitting out of the top of the pump and knock the spring and ball out of that fitting with a small punch . The advance won’t work in the pump but it will run ok , keep in mind don’t keep running it because it ends up cutting the pins off in the governor cage and the pump will run wild 😳 along with the metal being pumped around inside your pump , you don’t want that .

Danny 

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12 hours ago, bankshotone said:

I have ran into a situation, the tractor starts amd about a minute later is slowly looses rpms and dies. I have good fuel flow to the pump. I was reading something about a return check valve, is it part of the t on the top of the pump? Is there a way to check it?

Thanks

As said above, the flex ring inside the pump is failing and it will need properly serviced. I'm not a fan of do-it-yourself pump jobs, since I've seen so many of those go wrong. Not everyone is capable of rebuilding the pump. Some aren't even capable of removal/installation lol! When I rebuild a 361/407 pump, I make sure they send me the drive assembly as well, since that's where the seals are that keeps the fuel in the pump and out of the crankcase. I provide all the parts to re-install it. I do a lot more than take them apart and put a new flex ring in too. I completely rebuild them and perform all updates. Not everyone thinks they need that, and there are guys who will fix them like that for you cheaper than what I do. The jiggle wire mentioned above applies to ones equipped with the bypass system, which had the return fitting on the back side timing window. Good idea, but all get removed now days. It directed the return fuel right back to the inlet, bypassing the filters(also called filter saver) but if something was failing in the pump, the carnage went right back to the pump inlet unfiltered. The biggest problem with the system is the cover on the back side of the pump warps and leaks. Not a fun place to fix a fuel leak.

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