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Hi Guys it has been a couple week's cense I posted with my head removal and heading to machine shop.

cracked in #1 and #4 right between intake and exhaust valves. Repaired and new seats installed, 4) new starter valves installed.

Because I had over heating problems I removed water pump and flushed and back flushed the radiator.

I am now all cleaned out and water pump looked good. Did get some mouse debris from back flush from upper tank.   

Install head this week with new head gasket all back together and valves adjusted, so it was time to start it.

Fire and started right away on gas ran for about ten minutes while I bleed fuel filters and injector lines.

Switched over to diesel and kept running set at medium rpm and let run, had some popping and missing a little smoke.

So went and cracked injector line again, it did seem to run better but still some missing and popping would cut in and out on it own.

I was watching the Temperature gauge  like a hawk  went up to beginning of the green run zone never got hot so I was happy, think that problem is fixed.

Rpm started to run up on it own, engine did seem to smooth some. Diesel started flowing out the injector pump top cover and oil fill. so I chicken out and shut it down.

Total run time on diesel was about 45 minutes.

The injector pump will be my next project. Is the shaft seal something I can change my self? I have read where guy could not get the seal to fit and used O rings.

Or should I send it out? and Where would you send it?      

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it is just the transfer pump behind on back of injection pump. so its something u can do if u find the seals. pull little pump off and have a look.

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If you are getting fuel coming out of the fuel pump top cover it is most likely the gasket that goes between the auxiliary pump and injection pump.  this gasket has to seal the return flow of fuel coming from the injection pump.  Be careful when putting in a new gasket as there is nothing to hold it in place so one side must be glued.  The  shaft seal could be the culprit but it would have to be severely damaged.

Gene

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I have been draining fuel out and put fresh oil in each time I run it. Had not run it long because of the over heating I had before.

I no the leak is getting worse and now pump case is full to top with fuel.

so I need to get something done with it. I have not called around on the seal, does anyone no if you can get them?   

I think it may run better and clear up if I could run it longer so I have to get this leak fixed for that to happen.

Thank for all your help.

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Attached is something that I downloaded from Red Power a number of years ago.  I believe from MB Cat.  Hope this helps.

Gene

 

image.jpeg

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Do you have an IH A or B pump, the fix redwood pictured is for the B pump, seal is only available from CIH, A pump I think has packing, it would be best to fix this leak before you have bigger problems in your main injection pump 

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There is no large A on pump so I am thinking it is B. I believe it does have a scavenge valve, Had one out on the 6 my cousin had.

Can't remember if I had this one out in the 9.

I was a where of the MB cat post on new seal, I guess I have nothing to loose.

So I need to order a seal and than get this pump apart.    

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I pulled the scavenger valve out this morning it moves freely O ring is gone so I have to get one.

Called CIH this morning They don't have scavenger pump shaft seal and say that part # 266584R91 is not made any more.

Any pump guy what to give ideas? 

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If you can post a picture of your pump we should be able to determine which one you have ...  

Grant

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IMG_2110.thumb.JPG.52ef3f042f332b3a0398e22686ccec76.JPG

OK so it is a packing in the nut was a spring pushing down brass collar above I posted picture of pump with seal, I guess all else is the same.

I will take pump apart this afternoon do some cleaning and make some gaskets. Need to find exactly where the pack was and how to fit O rings in?

Any help or ideas you guys have would be great.   

 

 

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I would stay with the packing and go with graphite impregnated for this application, you can measure the thickness between the gland bore and the shaft on one side or gland bore minus shaft diameter divided by 2.

You might also want to search scavenger valve as that was a common problem  

Count the number of rings you remove, you may need a good pick to pull them out, cut the new ones at a 45 degree angle to the bore and stagger the joints around the circumference 

 

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IMG_2111.thumb.JPG.3d3a679d7ef51cbb42e3829b6fe5a6c3.JPG

The little bolt at bottom is holding the packing 4 rubbers and 3 brass. So now I can see I will have to get 4 O rings to replace the packing.

Gaskets are very thin what have you guys used to make new one? Some one said to use wax paper that is to thin. 

I have it what need to be done just need gasket material if I can find it and O rings for packing.  

IMG_2113.JPG

IMG_2114.JPG

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I did pull the scavenger valve out and put new O ring on it the plunger seemed clean, free and moving.

The fuel shout off under tank is turned off but the return line seem as it was flooding out the injector pump.

When I pulled the scavenger pump a lot of fuel came out, I think fuel was up to top of oil fill.  

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Wax paper is what others have used, if you mic old it is thin with few modern choice replacements 

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I’m no expert on this, and stand to be corrected...but I believe you have the “A” style pump... with the fuel return outlet as part the primary pump you have removed...

The “B” style pump has the fuel return coming out on the top of the main pump assembly, near the plunger...

If your repair should not succeed, I have a newly reconditioned “A” style primary pump here from Brown International that I am planning to return to them (I have the “B” style pump, and they sent me the wrong one).... I ended up putting my old one back in with a new bearing cage gasket and housing gasket, and it seems to be fine so far...??

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IMG_2115.thumb.JPG.88f1d3725dc0b03e6a48d20284216bf6.JPG

I ran to most place's near me that sell O rings and could not find any the match the size needed to make a packing. After taking some measurements shaft  and OD of packing approximately 5/16" shaft and 1/2" OD packing housing, got me thinking the original packing I have pulled out I believe them to be leather 

with square edges almost like a faucet wash but soft. Got a piece of 5/16 fuel line and cut some slivers off of it and it looks and fit like the original.

I think I can pick out the best 4 and use them for my packing. Friend brought up a point about gasket material Plastic bags and wax paper will not hold up in diesel fuel would lean more to thin paper like paper bag? what do you guy think of that?

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You jogged my memory, one guy made his out of Manila file folder paper, again they were micing this stuff to compare thickness 
 

Let’s us know if your diy packing works and for how long

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I dont know if these pix will help

1st pic is of neoprene cup seals that can be found by dimension online quite easily

2nd is kit for primary pump showing part number  ( maybe supplier  who i believe is "central fuel" could help with your needs )

818328941_ihinjectorpumpsealreplacement.thumb.jpg.cee4c5ab83b8f3dbc2e3d0a0a6890d4c.jpg

 

1727356250_primarypumpkitihtdinjectioncentralfuel.jpg.86707ff948f8b31d0ba6f8c1adb12f15.jpg

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