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 I want to leave a bad review for a place that worked on a well my dad has, but I want to double check here that what they did was crap and a guessing game.

My dad called about 10 different companies to look at this shallow well (100') with a jet pump. It is a 2" well, and the jet pump is mounted in the basement. Everyone is so busy here for some reason with wells, they said it would be a couple months before they could look at it, which wasn't a huge deal, because no one lives at the house where the well is, but we're in and out of the shop there all the time. One of the places said they could be there in a week, dad said that was great, set it up. 

The problem with this well was that the pump would have good pressure right off the bat and fall to very little flow as soon as the pressure in the bladder tank was equalized. Then it would take forever to pump back up to pressure and then run continuously until the the water wasn't being drawn anymore. At one time back when my grandpa still lived there, he thought it was because it needed a new pump, but that didn't change a thing, and he left the new pump on there anyway. So over a few years, my grandpa is gone, and the water flow gets worse. New pump didn't fix it last time, so it's probably not the pump. Dad and I talked about it, and figured even though it was years later since the pump was changed, it didn't fix it then, and it probably wouldn't fix it now, and that it was probably either the screen on the foot valve at the bottom of the drop pipe, or the screen on the end of the point. He didn't want to change the pump out and just be guessing, so that's why he called the well place, figured it would be easier and cheaper in the long run. 

The fellow gets out there, asks what the complaint is, and wants the see the water run. Dad shows him how the water slows down after 30 seconds or so, and doesn't flow much, then takes forever to build back up to cut out pressure. He runs no pressure or vacuum tests on the casing or anything, immediately condemns the pump. Dad told him it had been like this a while, and was slowly getting worse and a new pump didn't fix it last time. He said that for sure it was the pump and the bladder tank was bad as well. My dad asked him if he was sure the problem wasn't at the bottom of the well multiple times, and he just told him again and again it wasn't working right because of the pump and the bladder tank. Of which my dad isn't a dummy, he's always changed his own pumps and bladder tanks, but now he can't see as good as he could when he was younger and has a shot shoulder and hands, so figured he'd hire it done. So he tells the guy, if that will fix it, then go ahead. 

Here is where in the story my dad is telling me, I started to think this guy has no idea what he's doing and is just a parts changer, but I need you guys to verify that for me. So he changed out the pump, dad said he had to crimp a pex fitting 3 times before he got it to quit leaking. Then he changed the bladder tank out, never added air to it or checked it with a gauge. The pump has a 30-50 psi pressure switch on it, I went later and verified it myself. He adjusted the brand new pressure switch down and kept adjusting it. Normally, wouldn't you leave that right where it's set??? So while investigating, I look at the gauge on the side of the pump and see that now after him messing with the pressure switch, it cuts in at 20 pounds and off at about 33 psi. And then I noticed that he had added a ball valve in the pressure line out of the pump before the where the bladder tank is Teed in. And he's got it cocked off so it's only open about a third of the way, restricting the output of the pump. Dad said he questioned him about this, and he said that is how it has to be set with a jet pump, but I think that's BS. I made a note of it's position, then opened it up all the way. Obviously, since the pump can't get enough water anyway, it didn't help much after the bladder equalized anyway. Dad said he never put a gauge on the bladder tank after it was installed either, just kept fiddling with pressure switch on the pump, the ball valve, and letting air out of the bladder tank until he seemed satisfied it was all set. Dad said then when they turned it on, and let it pump, it ran and ran forever until it shut off, then kicked back on with 15 seconds of opening up the spigot, and back down to the same trickle in 30 seconds. When he asked the guy about it, he said it was because the water table was so low, when it comes back up it will work fine. Except for the fact that my well at my house is 250' away from this one, and is only down 40' and has water within 10' of the top of the casing and works fine. 

So dad called the company and told them he thought they should fix it and knock some off the price of the pump and bladder tank, and they said he needed a new well, and they would do it for $7000-$8500 and that was taking the cost of the pump and bladder off. So dad checked around, and most places said $4500-6000 for a new well. Oh yeah, the guy who "fixed" the well, charged him $900 for the jet pump and $500 for the bladder tank after all was said and done. The other well companies said that pump would be about $500, and obviously he could have gotten the bladder tank for about $300 anywhere else. But he's not one too argue over something he's not an expert at, so I'd like to give the company a poor review, of which they have a 3.5 star rating. It just ticks me off that he suggested what he thought was wrong based on what was already done, and they paid no attention, and it still doesn't work, and it cost my dad $1600 basically for nothing. I don't feel a bit bad about leaving a bad review, and I'm not a well expert either, but I've always worked on my own well, it it sure seems they're way of doing thing with the install and set up are very strange, besides the fact it still doesn't work right. Sorry so long, I just wanted to get all the facts out there and some feedback before making myself look like an idiot by giving a bad review about work that was done. 

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Nobody has used jet pump here in 40 years, so I don't know about that. There are some foot valve and Y fitting that was on the bottom of them in different junk piles. But everything is submersibles now. But I have never seen one that would drop in your 2 inch casing.

 

But the price for drilling a new well is supper cheap to what it would cost me. I had something close to your 4000 to 6000 in a good buddy deal from a friend for 250 foot with 5 inch casing. Have a written quit of $30,000 from a reputable company for 300 feet. And that is 6 to 8 years ago.

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37 minutes ago, RBootsMI said:

 I want to leave a bad review for a place that worked on a well my dad has, but I want to double check here that what they did was crap and a guessing game.

My dad called about 10 different companies to look at this shallow well (100') with a jet pump. It is a 2" well, and the jet pump is mounted in the basement. Everyone is so busy here for some reason with wells, they said it would be a couple months before they could look at it, which wasn't a huge deal, because no one lives at the house where the well is, but we're in and out of the shop there all the time. One of the places said they could be there in a week, dad said that was great, set it up. 

The problem with this well was that the pump would have good pressure right off the bat and fall to very little flow as soon as the pressure in the bladder tank was equalized. Then it would take forever to pump back up to pressure and then run continuously until the the water wasn't being drawn anymore. At one time back when my grandpa still lived there, he thought it was because it needed a new pump, but that didn't change a thing, and he left the new pump on there anyway. So over a few years, my grandpa is gone, and the water flow gets worse. New pump didn't fix it last time, so it's probably not the pump. Dad and I talked about it, and figured even though it was years later since the pump was changed, it didn't fix it then, and it probably wouldn't fix it now, and that it was probably either the screen on the foot valve at the bottom of the drop pipe, or the screen on the end of the point. He didn't want to change the pump out and just be guessing, so that's why he called the well place, figured it would be easier and cheaper in the long run. 

The fellow gets out there, asks what the complaint is, and wants the see the water run. Dad shows him how the water slows down after 30 seconds or so, and doesn't flow much, then takes forever to build back up to cut out pressure. He runs no pressure or vacuum tests on the casing or anything, immediately condemns the pump. Dad told him it had been like this a while, and was slowly getting worse and a new pump didn't fix it last time. He said that for sure it was the pump and the bladder tank was bad as well. My dad asked him if he was sure the problem wasn't at the bottom of the well multiple times, and he just told him again and again it wasn't working right because of the pump and the bladder tank. Of which my dad isn't a dummy, he's always changed his own pumps and bladder tanks, but now he can't see as good as he could when he was younger and has a shot shoulder and hands, so figured he'd hire it done. So he tells the guy, if that will fix it, then go ahead. 

Here is where in the story my dad is telling me, I started to think this guy has no idea what he's doing and is just a parts changer, but I need you guys to verify that for me. So he changed out the pump, dad said he had to crimp a pex fitting 3 times before he got it to quit leaking. Then he changed the bladder tank out, never added air to it or checked it with a gauge. The pump has a 30-50 psi pressure switch on it, I went later and verified it myself. He adjusted the brand new pressure switch down and kept adjusting it. Normally, wouldn't you leave that right where it's set??? So while investigating, I look at the gauge on the side of the pump and see that now after him messing with the pressure switch, it cuts in at 20 pounds and off at about 33 psi. And then I noticed that he had added a ball valve in the pressure line out of the pump before the where the bladder tank is Teed in. And he's got it cocked off so it's only open about a third of the way, restricting the output of the pump. Dad said he questioned him about this, and he said that is how it has to be set with a jet pump, but I think that's BS. I made a note of it's position, then opened it up all the way. Obviously, since the pump can't get enough water anyway, it didn't help much after the bladder equalized anyway. Dad said he never put a gauge on the bladder tank after it was installed either, just kept fiddling with pressure switch on the pump, the ball valve, and letting air out of the bladder tank until he seemed satisfied it was all set. Dad said then when they turned it on, and let it pump, it ran and ran forever until it shut off, then kicked back on with 15 seconds of opening up the spigot, and back down to the same trickle in 30 seconds. When he asked the guy about it, he said it was because the water table was so low, when it comes back up it will work fine. Except for the fact that my well at my house is 250' away from this one, and is only down 40' and has water within 10' of the top of the casing and works fine. 

So dad called the company and told them he thought they should fix it and knock some off the price of the pump and bladder tank, and they said he needed a new well, and they would do it for $7000-$8500 and that was taking the cost of the pump and bladder off. So dad checked around, and most places said $4500-6000 for a new well. Oh yeah, the guy who "fixed" the well, charged him $900 for the jet pump and $500 for the bladder tank after all was said and done. The other well companies said that pump would be about $500, and obviously he could have gotten the bladder tank for about $300 anywhere else. But he's not one too argue over something he's not an expert at, so I'd like to give the company a poor review, of which they have a 3.5 star rating. It just ticks me off that he suggested what he thought was wrong based on what was already done, and they paid no attention, and it still doesn't work, and it cost my dad $1600 basically for nothing. I don't feel a bit bad about leaving a bad review, and I'm not a well expert either, but I've always worked on my own well, it it sure seems they're way of doing thing with the install and set up are very strange, besides the fact it still doesn't work right. Sorry so long, I just wanted to get all the facts out there and some feedback before making myself look like an idiot by giving a bad review about work that was done. 

let me start by saying i dont know a lot about wells other than the 5 i have lived with over the years. 2 hand pump, 3 electric. One with a jet pump, pressure tank in cellar with the pump. Had to hand prime it by filling up the pressure tank with water. Ours at our house, pump was in well, had two pressure tanks on wall in house/basement 400 feet away. it had a schrader valve in the basement you filled up the line with to prime it with by pressurizing. Last was a 6 inch pipe with pump down the tube in the well, pressure tank in the house/basement. ALL of them were 40 feet or less wells except for the 6" well. the 6" was 280 ft. 

all that being said............it sounds like you are running out of water and its pumping what is trickling into the well which is S L O W and why it takes so long to get it to work. How much water is in the casing vs how deep the well is. Ours were around 40 feet with around 25 feet to water line. Maybe the old well is silted in or just not a good vein anymore? 

If they are shallow wells and large casings, ALL of ours you could easily see down with a light and see the water/pump lines etc.... so if its slurping trying to draw water you will be able to determine that easily. At 100' that might not be possible but audibly you might be able to hear the pipe slurping - I cant say from the description it sounds very good on the setup exactly but not totally unreasonable. We ran our switches about 30 to 55 lbs on the gauges. I dont like getting much below 30lbs things just run really slow. Adjusted those regulators a lot of times as the points get a little sticky and springs weaker over time on the settings, but NEW, not so much. 

Get you a fabric tape measurer, tie a stick on it, a good heavy green stick, let it down into the well slowly, when the tape goes limp, taken note of this measurement, this will tell you where your water line is. Then, take the stick off, put something metal on it, drop it down and see how far it hits bottom this will tell you how much water you have in your well/tile for reserve when the pump kicks on. this might help you figure out if you have a water problem in the well and it needs to be dug out. 

you can also see how far the stick goes down on the tape when you kick the pump on too and see how long it takes water to run back in and recover 

 

 

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3 minutes ago, searcyfarms said:

let me start by saying i dont know a lot about wells other than the 5 i have lived with over the years. 2 hand pump, 3 electric. One with a jet pump, pressure tank in cellar with the pump. Had to hand prime it by filling up the pressure tank with water. Ours at our house, pump was in well, had two pressure tanks on wall in house/basement 400 feet away. it had a schrader valve in the basement you filled up the line with to prime it with by pressurizing. Last was a 6 inch pipe with pump down the tube in the well, pressure tank in the house/basement. ALL of them were 40 feet or less wells except for the 6" well. the 6" was 280 ft. 

all that being said............it sounds like you are running out of water and its pumping what is trickling into the well which is S L O W and why it takes so long to get it to work. How much water is in the casing vs how deep the well is. Ours were around 40 feet with around 25 feet to water line. Maybe the old well is silted in or just not a good vein anymore? 

If they are shallow wells and large casings, ALL of ours you could easily see down with a light and see the water/pump lines etc.... so if its slurping trying to draw water you will be able to determine that easily. At 100' that might not be possible but audibly you might be able to hear the pipe slurping - I cant say from the description it sounds very good on the setup exactly but not totally unreasonable. We ran our switches about 30 to 55 lbs on the gauges. I dont like getting much below 30lbs things just run really slow. Adjusted those regulators a lot of times as the points get a little sticky and springs weaker over time on the settings, but NEW, not so much. 

Get you a fabric tape measurer, tie a stick on it, a good heavy green stick, let it down into the well slowly, when the tape goes limp, taken note of this measurement, this will tell you where your water line is. Then, take the stick off, put something metal on it, drop it down and see how far it hits bottom this will tell you how much water you have in your well/tile for reserve when the pump kicks on. this might help you figure out if you have a water problem in the well and it needs to be dug out. 

you can also see how far the stick goes down on the tape when you kick the pump on too and see how long it takes water to run back in and recover 

 

 

crap so much for that idea, i thot it was a 2 FOOT not 2" casing - never heard of that. 

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Did they check the check valve? Since im from Mi too can I ask who the company is?

My place has 2 wells believe it or not. House is a submersible set at 40 ft ( hit water at my house at 17ft) There is another well at the barns that was used during my Great Grandpa's cattle days that is a jet pump.

One day a few years ago I come home and hear the pump running continuously but not pumping up. No prime. I didn't need the pump that year at that time so i killed it for the year. Next year tried to prime it again, nothing. Got someone out there and he figured out the check valve had gone bad. New check valve and we were back in business. In theory if the check valve is restricted somehow it could choke of the flow as pressure builds. Not saying that this is the case but something to check out.

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It sounds to me your pump is starved for water. Before I’d drill a new well, cut the pvc pipe and check the foot valve at the bottom. Your check valve may not seal anymore. You’d be getting a new one with new well anyways so you wouldn’t be out anything beside a coupling

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Is this a one pipe or two pipe system.  I am assuming because of the depth it is a single pipe going down the well?  

Definitely pull the hose up from the well.  Check the foot valve, and check that somehow something didn't get inside the hose restricting flow.

Also check the static water level and depth to bottom as was suggested.  I like the idea of checking how fast it draws down when running too.  

I've seen piping grow shut from minerals.

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I had a similar situation once at the farm I rented. Suction pipe went out of the house to the well with a 90 degree elbow at the top of the well. Here the suction pipe was supported by some rope and a 2 x 4. Started to act the same way all of a sudden. Turned out the rope broke  and the suction pipe dropped enough to end up on the bottom of the well. It would pump fine for less than a minute then decrease to just a trickle. Raised the pipe up and supported it and the water flow returned to normal.

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Years ago, dad had that happen to an 8" irrigation well. He borrowed a big air compressor from the quarry near our house and blew out the casing. The holes in the casing were silted shut.

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Same exact thing happened with with our jet pumped well about 15 years ago. Good flow right at first, then to a trickle. First well company sent out 2 troglodytes that immediately condemned the well and said we needed to drill a new one.  Next guy pulled the well cap and said we had 80' of water in a 100' well. He said the foot valve was bad and recommended putting in a submersible, which we did and it has been fine since.  But, with a 2" casing I think you are going to need to replace the parts down in the well. https://www.pentair.com/en/products/water-supply-pumps/pentair-myers-residential-water-supply/2_deep_well_jet_packages.html

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Jet pumps = ulcers................but with the casing size, your sorta committed.  Everyone around me had jet pumps, got real good at well repairs, my pap and old man had submersibles, pulled each one of those only once in 40 years.  Funny, everyone started dropping in submersibles and all these well troubles went away.  I got one neighbor left with one, they still work on it regularly.  I am not so sure you have mechanical issues though with the way its acting, I tend to agree with the guys who say things are silted up.  With that said, considering the 2" casing, is it worth it to keep throwing good money away?  Not my call to make but something to think about.

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5 minutes ago, TP from Central PA said:

Jet pumps = ulcers................but with the casing size, your sorta committed.  Everyone around me had jet pumps, got real good at well repairs, my pap and old man had submersibles, pulled each one of those only once in 40 years.  Funny, everyone started dropping in submersibles and all these well troubles went away.  I got one neighbor left with one, they still work on it regularly.  I am not so sure you have mechanical issues though with the way its acting, I tend to agree with the guys who say things are silted up.  With that said, considering the 2" casing, is it worth it to keep throwing good money away?  Not my call to make but something to think about.

Ill agree with this statement. Well guy when he was working on my barn jet pump said one thing about them "Jet pumps suck, they suck water and they suck to keep going " The barn well at my house is to small for a submersible to so im stuck with it or im running water lines from the house. It was a easy fix so ive stuck with it for what I need in the barns for the time being. But im glad im not relying on one for my house.

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I'm a little confused. I have 2 dug wells with jet pumps. One was at about the maximum lift for a single pipe system (about 25') so I converted it to a two pipe with the jet in the well just above the foot valve. The other well is a lesser lift and has a single pipe system - jet is on the pump in the barn.

I've run the single pipe well dry several times and each time it required lots of work filling the pipe getting it to prime again. I would think if the well is running dry you'd loose prime and would have to prime it again.

It sounds more like a restriction - bladder tank fills so good pressure/volume until it is fully discharged but pump cannot keep up with it. The pump should be able to more than supply demand and be able to recharge the bladder tank simultaneously, hence the normal cycle events.

Perhaps I'm missing something but I would think that an examination of the foot valve/screen/jet is in order and should be retrieved from the well before any more money spent.

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Start out simple, change your pressure switch first,make sure that the hole that the switch screws into is open and not full of rust and other crap, then disconnect the bladder tank install a shut off calve and a gauge ,put air in and see if it maintains pressure,  if it does it's time to pull the line out of the well and check the foot valve.make sure it does not have any debris in it. Then take an air hose and pressurize the line with the foot valve on to see if the line has any holes in it. This would be done from the top end of your pipe. This will check the valve and pipe for leaks. 

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Ok, first thing your guy is not a plumber. If it took him three tries to get a pex fitting to hold that’s pretty sad. That stuff is so easy to work with it’s nearly impossible to have a leak. Second, you’ve replaced the pump to no avail. It’s probably not the pump. You did not mention that the pressure was bleeding down, so I assume that your piping has no leaks. The only thing left to check is down in the well. Either the screen is plugged or the jet assembly has dirt or rust plugging the nozzle. Normally if the jet is plugged it will not pump up to pressure at all. However you mentioned that your well is within 10 feet of the surface. At that depth the pump would probably make up pressure with a plugged jet although it would be slow. The the jet assembly needs to be pulled  and checked.

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Hello Neighbor--len up at CLARE....Well guys don't like to work on 2 inch wells--they just want to put in new 4-6 inch wells.  They will screw up your 2 inch so they can put in a new expensive well.  I have many 2 inch wells...You need to pull the Bremer check valve that sits on top of the Point.  Usually a two ft. piece of 1 1/4 pipe onto to the top of your Point.  Once the Bremer check is removed--I drop pellets of a product called New Well down the casing--can get that at good hardwares.  Let set for 24 hours.  I chase that with a gallon of Muratic acid.  If the well pipe is at ground level.  Don't want to be using it if in a well pit--fumes are dangerous.  If in a well pit I add an extension to the 2 inch casing to get it above ground level.  You can make the screen just like new.  Sometimes the screen  is bad--holes rusted in.  In that case just pull the screen out and replace with a new stainless.  Give me a call-----The screen is not letting enough water in......989-621-0483

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I know of very few well drillers that will guarantee water at a specific rate unless they get to set the depth and diameter of the well.

In the South East in the old days we could get water at at 20 feet. I know of a well in California that went down to more than  > 2500 feet to get acceptable water in the Santa Rosa area and one North West of Sparks Nevada that was deeper.  Unbelievable  $$$ spent on their water wells. These were on properties of associates that farmed.  In those areas a good well is something to be proud of!!!

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2 hours ago, oleman said:

I know of very few well drillers that will guarantee water at a specific rate unless they get to set the depth and diameter of the well.

In the South East in the old days we could get water at at 20 feet. I know of a well in California that went down to more than  > 2500 feet to get acceptable water in the Santa Rosa area and one North West of Sparks Nevada that was deeper.  Unbelievable  $$$ spent on their water wells. These were on properties of associates that farmed.  In those areas a good well is something to be proud of!!!

Ive got a expensive hole in the ground that puts out .25 gpm

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my cousin just witched/dowsing for the faint of heart - first dig they hit limestone had to stop, next dig a few feet away, boom..........40ft, 8gpm lovin it. 

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20 hours ago, Reichow7120 said:

Did they check the check valve? Since im from Mi too can I ask who the company is?

My place has 2 wells believe it or not. House is a submersible set at 40 ft ( hit water at my house at 17ft) There is another well at the barns that was used during my Great Grandpa's cattle days that is a jet pump.

One day a few years ago I come home and hear the pump running continuously but not pumping up. No prime. I didn't need the pump that year at that time so i killed it for the year. Next year tried to prime it again, nothing. Got someone out there and he figured out the check valve had gone bad. New check valve and we were back in business. In theory if the check valve is restricted somehow it could choke of the flow as pressure builds. Not saying that this is the case but something to check out.

They didn't check anything, seemed to not have listened to a thing my dad said, just told him the pump must be bad even though my dad contested that, the guy told him nope it was the pump. Except it wasn't.

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14 hours ago, zleinenbach said:

It sounds to me your pump is starved for water. Before I’d drill a new well, cut the pvc pipe and check the foot valve at the bottom. Your check valve may not seal anymore. You’d be getting a new one with new well anyways so you wouldn’t be out anything beside a coupling

Yep, that's what we figured originally, that it was starved for water and the pump was ok, but this guy was adamant the pump was the problem. Dad wanted to call someone because the drop pipe is steel, not pvc, so it's gonna be quite heavy at 100' long, and he didn't want any mishaps pulling it ourselves.  But I'm gonna do what we should have done ourselves originally and just pull the pipe, I got stuff here that will lift, so I'm gonna pull it and check the foot valve and do what Len says with the acid, at least give it a try like you say.

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13 hours ago, hobbyfarm said:

Is this a one pipe or two pipe system.  I am assuming because of the depth it is a single pipe going down the well?  

Definitely pull the hose up from the well.  Check the foot valve, and check that somehow something didn't get inside the hose restricting flow.

Also check the static water level and depth to bottom as was suggested.  I like the idea of checking how fast it draws down when running too.  

I've seen piping grow shut from minerals.

It's a single drop pipe, a steel drop pipe, so it is very possible it's encrusted shut or the foot valve is silted, gonna pull it this weekend if I get time and see what we have there.

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I dont think i would pay for the pump or pressure tank myself. Sure would drag my feet about it at very least.

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