Jump to content

Rebuilding of my FarmAll m transmission.


Recommended Posts

I’m going to document the rebuilding of my FarmAll m tranny in hope that I will get some helpful comments.

Here we go this is one of two trannys I got for parts. The first one is 1942 and the second 1950. I’m going to take them apart and make mistake on them and the go into my tractor. I’ve made a stand to hold the tranny and a second one for my tractor!!! Hopefully this might help someone else.This is the second tranny I’m going to take it apart on my trailer

F7EC1B66-B0D1-4012-B8D1-71E6C03627B5.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Got my first transmission all apart and power washed . I couldn’t believe all the stuff that a washed out! Any place that I should look for damage ? It seems to be in good shape . And should I repaint the inside and with what? 

E5D86EB3-011B-4DFB-B9CA-53C57D6B07A3.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

There are conflicting opinions on "paint". First off, DO NO USE PAINT. Paint will not stand up to gear oil. The inside will do fine without any coating due to oil splash.

With that said, IH did coat the insides of the transmission, just not with paint. The prevailing opinion is that the product used was "Glyptal". I'm very confident that the purpose of this was to prevent corrosion after casting, but before the paint (outside) and oil (inside) to protect the surfaces from rust due to air moisture. Being that it was coated (dipped per DrEvil) for manufacturing purposes, your doing so is purely optional.

With that said, I repainted the inner portion of my transmission cover just recently, because it had been blasted clean during sandblasting and I didn't have the courage to leave it bare. I got to thinking all kinds of crazy things like "what happens when I die and the tractor sits for a long time? Will the oil migrate away and it get rusty? Will the rust wreck my new bearings? Will my heirs scrap it if the transmission gets destroyed?" Yeah, I'm a headcase.

As for damage spots, the biggest one I've seen is the housing cracking below the bull gears. I'm told that it happens when a bull gear loses a tooth. Eventually the lost tooth gets pinched between the gear and the housing. Hardened steel versus cast iron -the housing breaks. The only other thing I can think of, is to take a look at the threads and look for evidence of over tightening. Maybe the fill and drain holes? They've probably had the most mileage on the threads.

Another thing is the cover. My cover was pretty pitted from about seventy years of sitting outside. Also, they wear quickly down to bare cast iron under operators' boots. Anyway, I had that wear filled somewhat before painting my cover. I also boogered up the removal of the brake pawl pin. Still have to fix that.

Also, make sure you don't put your gears back on the shaft backwards. It's frustrating and might make you walk away for a week! 

Last thing I struggled with was re-riveting the reverse gear. Very hard to buck the backside of the rivet on the shaft to reassemble.

More may come to me yet. Message me with questions. I'm restoring my C from back to front and just finished the transmission.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Been there done that:  I took apart three Farmall M's washed every out, replaced the bearings and put them back together.

You need a good frame stand to hold the whole tractor off the shop floor about 4" inch with tires on. With a moving hoist above to handle the heavy parts.

I built the stand about 25 years ago it will hold H or M, I'm putting a rebuilt H motor in right now.

seal coat inside; Sprayon red insulating varnish, resists oils, moisture, acids, Alkalies

 

trivia;        What color is superman's cape?

100_1690.JPG

100_1633.JPG

100_1689.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

I made two , one to hold the tranny while I work on it and one for the tractor. The tractor one can be moved by a pallet floor jack! Not sure if I want to use my 1939 rear end or the 1942 or 1950. 

718F3ABB-A4F9-4683-98ED-FA342D050831.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Finished taking the second parts tranny apart. Now I have to decide which case I’ll use the 1950 or I think it’s a 1940.  It had all the old style lower shaft .. Some one had it apart looks to have some bearing , then I found this !!! Glad I took it all a part! Now starts the slow process of putting it together with new bearings!!

8B77A4FB-5D99-4D2A-BCD4-A23529003F77.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Dell said:

Dose anyone know what size the reverse gear bushing should be reamed/ honed to? I could find anything in the manuals any where.

 

Can't say for certain but the I&T manual might have it. If I think of it, I'll look when I'm back in the shop.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I was getting all the parts I need to start to reassemble this transmission and wanted to replace this snap ring p/n 56521d , hi wants $15.00 wow and that’s with out a kiss!!!!! Do I have any other choices . The snap ring is round...

3BD00A00-DC49-49CF-B0B5-88A183455434.jpeg

9B9F0657-63E6-4C71-AC1C-8DCA999E50D7.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

I know this might be a pain in the rear,  but would it be possible to document the bearing numbers as you go? I want to go through mine as well and buy a bearing here and there, then once I have em all,  bang it out in one giant effort. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Good idea ill do that as i go . i have that  in a word program started to keep track of parts .I have them listed as followed , lower shaft, upper shaft, differential

, rear axles. ill post any cross reference

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/4/2020 at 8:38 PM, Dell said:

Good idea ill do that as i go . i have that  in a word program started to keep track of parts .I have them listed as followed , lower shaft, upper shaft, differential

, rear axles. ill post any cross reference

Thank you.  I want to gather up new bearings before I tear my M down.  This would be a great help.  Regular bearing houses can't always cross IH Bearing numbers and it would be great to have "modern" numbers in hand.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok before I get going all my part# are for my serial# tractor if their is a error be warned us at your own risk. I make mistakes!!!!

 

The Reverse shaft and gear. My old shaft had plugged lube holes so I replaced both bushings and shaft! I pressed in the bushing and the shaft is on its way . It will take a side trip to Napa to get reamed . I don’t have a adjustable team that big

B7397943-0559-4744-97CC-8EB10B6FA546.jpeg

335576C5-DFBC-4EFD-BFED-48CA87D2BFC3.jpeg

FBF8C9C7-C7EC-4FF2-A6DA-B052BB21365B.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

Now moving on to the lower shaft. I’m going to have to replace some of the gears , and all the bearings and seals. Here’s the list of parts . According to the s/n of my tractor. Bates tractor corporation helped me get a good used shaft. I need to remove the gears  and inspect them.  Winter time is coming and my shop has no heat  so things may slow down...

05B25458-4251-496E-AF87-712C663C38C7.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 5 months later...

Update the garage finally warmed up. Thanks to my sweet wife for helping me  pressing gears off and on the lower shaft is in. Got a good used shaft from Bates Corp.  all new bearings! Next differential top shaft!

289E5C6B-03E2-4DE5-9DB3-AB9E13742EE8.jpeg

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...