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Crap! Broken stud, aluminum head🤬🤬🤬


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I was doing pretty well, had 2 broken bolts, the rest came out, i welded a nut on, a Then big as life, i went to back it out and it snapped off🤬 now i gotta get this stud out if the aluminum head. Going to try building it up with the wire feed enough to get another nut on. I suspect i did not let it cool enough and it was expanded so it broke instead of backing out. 
 

any suggestions when this doesn’t work? 

E85D3593-E0DA-4BE9-B511-E8565B87D91F.jpeg

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Your on the right track.  I usually drill a hole in them before I weld the nut on with the theory that it will let them shrink slightly.  I think you will get it.  Those usually don’t come out too hard.

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5 minutes ago, yellowrosefarm said:

 GM 5.3?

I may have to go change wire, im out of .035 tips and its sticking, making life difficult. I think about this often, wouldnt life be better if manufacturers had never seize? 

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If they would just use a decent size stud you wouldn’t be fixing it.   Same with the fords.   ESP V10’s.      Don’t put anti seize on.  Brother did that to his 6.0 and they work out after a while.   

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30 minutes ago, nate said:

If they would just use a decent size stud you wouldn’t be fixing it.   Same with the fords.   ESP V10’s.      Don’t put anti seize on.  Brother did that to his 6.0 and they work out after a while.   

Better than this! 😁

 

Hooker or Dougs Headers have a special washer for thus application iirc.  So you can antisieze and it will hold it.  Maybe just for a bolt application though

SS stud/bolts maybe?  I bet there is a aftermarket remedy 

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So you removed the stud BUT what about the overheated aluminum threaded hole??? Or are threaded inserts next?

I once attempted to work on some old boat motors, "nothing worked except off to the trash heap." 

Talked to a aircraft engine repair place, they wanted $150 per bolt to use a  fancy spark discharge machine. Messing with aluminum gets expensive in a hurry.

 

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2 hours ago, vtfireman85 said:

 wouldnt life be better if manufacturers had never seize? 

Have it where I work, assemblers go threw scads of it! Of course everything we build is custom, one-off type of thing.

Congrats on getting it out.

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I put ARP stainless studs in mine.

Problem solved.

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55 minutes ago, from H to 80 said:

Anytime I get a broken stud out i parade around the shop like I just won an Olympic gold medal.         CONGRATULATIONS

It does put a little strut in your step, for sure! 

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I seriously hope I don’t own this truck when it needs doing again, butnwith my luck, who knows. Id really like an extended cab . Was going to do it this year but with all this and the wifes new car itl have to wait. 

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Broken studs in ANYTHING successfully removed are a reason to party,put's a smile back on your face and gives you a you can do anything feeling.But what I do instead of letting them cool and shrink on their own after nut is welded on douse it with cold water.Water doesn't have to be a cold or even a lot .It just shrinks it faster then metal surrounding it opens the threads right up.I even heated stud bolts red hot  when a welder is not available, cooled with water and clamped vise grips on and got'em out that way.But it ALWAYS helps to ask forgiveness and say a little prayer when clamping those vice grips on because your living on the edge. 

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You went about it right.  Takes quite a few tries (and heat cycles) to get them out usually.  Only bad thing is welding them makes em pretty hard, and drilling gets pretty difficult after if welding fails.  Most times I resort to a carbide, bore back through and then make 2 cuts towards the outside, then peel what's left out.  If you mess up, hey they make helicoils and timeserts for a reason :)

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10 hours ago, yellowrosefarm said:

https://www.kralautoparts.com/product/kap108/

I used these on my 6.0 in the 2002 Silverado. Both back studs were broken when I got it and it would leak when cold. I put these brackets on and it hasn't leaked since.

Two back studs on each side are broken on the 6.0 in the van that I picked up a few months ago.  Not making any noise hot or cold.

Maybe I should put these in now before they do.  Looks like a nice fix.

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7 hours ago, Steve C. said:

Two back studs on each side are broken on the 6.0 in the van that I picked up a few months ago.  Not making any noise hot or cold.

Maybe I should put these in now before they do.  Looks like a nice fix.

My 01 5.3 Yukon has the drivers side rear stud broken off, but it's been that way since I bought it about 3 years ago and doesn't leak so I haven't done anything with it. It took me a little over an hour to do both sides on the Silverado with the KRAL brackets. Should be even easier on the van if it has a removable doghouse.

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13 minutes ago, yellowrosefarm said:

Should be even easier on the van if it has a removable doghouse.

That's what I was thinking too.  The back of the engine is much more accessible on this '04 than it was on my '95.

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17 minutes ago, yellowrosefarm said:

. Should be even easier on the van if it has a removable doghouse.

Those doghouses ain't what they used  to  be. More stuff, less space. 

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