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Advice - paint or no paint.


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Looking for your all's advice.  I got rid of the red '68 and have acquired this 1974 F350, my grandpa's old truck.  It has been mostly sitting since 1993, although my uncle has kept it road worthy and used it a little.  

Here's my question.  It needs several things, including 6 wheels and 6 tires NOW.  The drivetrain seems very solid, bed is good.  My dilemma is what to do about paint.  It has a lot of surface rest, and some serious holes at the bottom of the doors.  Two estimates to paint it by body shops have been $5k +.  I had a good friend look at it, who works in a big truck body shop.  His estimate for materials, if we do the work, is $2k.

Do you all think these numbers are realistic?  I certainly want to take care of and preserve this truck, but I also have limitations on what I can justify putting into an old truck.  I've bought it, will be buying the wheels and tires, and need to be able to use it in the meantime.

Thanks, as always.

20200809_201744.jpg

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If I were you and have memories with grandpa and the truck, I would paint it and try to preserve it.  I wish I had my grandfathers 1965 El Camino to restore!

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I would say the body shop numbers are right, it’s crazy what they’re getting for stuff now but you’ll never find another one so I’d  fix it

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I have been doing body work for 45 years those prices are pretty good even a little on the cheap side  

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This truck represents more then money to you .

paint it preserve it !

5000 from body shop for rust repair and paint sounds very reasonable .

make sure if he is just bondo it or is he cutting cancer out and making repairs .

check on quality of paint.

you don’t want to spend 5000 later realizing that a thousand or two more would make perfect.

tony

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5 minutes ago, Tonyinca said:

This truck represents more then money to you .

paint it preserve it !

5000 from body shop for rust repair and paint sounds very reasonable .

make sure if he is just bondo it or is he cutting cancer out and making repairs .

check on quality of paint.

you don’t want to spend 5000 later realizing that a thousand or two more would make perfect.

tony

What Tony said!  The importance of preservation of family history cannot be understated,

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....5k is verrry reasonable if doing it right.  Friend wanted to just repaint his pretty new pickup a diff color.  0 bodywork..$10000.  If you wanna just stop the bad maybe get it like media blasted on the bad spots...just to loosen the scaly stuff but not paint, and clear it with flat clear.  Just a idea if $ is tight for a proper body job.  Or fix bad bad and primer it then scrub with baking soda and clear the surface rust and paint to stop it for now.  Then at least youve stopped the evil and when $ affords you are 1/3 way there.  What would grandpa do?  My grandpa had a DeSoto sedan for a farm truck...be cool to have now.  0 idea where it went.  Maternal Gpa had a little Dodge 50 4x.  Only pickup i recall him having...and i would love to find ot and just toole around with it somedays.  Hed take us fishing with it as boys.

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No one around here would do it that cheap. 
 

In fact, most body shops won’t even take a project like that in. 
 

They all want the insurance jobs , quick in and out. Something like that takes up too much shop space. 
 

You better do it . 

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5 hours ago, lorenzo said:

No one around here would do it that cheap. 
 

In fact, most body shops won’t even take a project like that in. 
 

They all want the insurance jobs , quick in and out. Something like that takes up too much shop space. 
 

You better do it . 

     You know thinking about it ,

      That's a nice looking truck , IMHO , looks as nice as the 1966 IH flat bed I am currently doing.

  If you have a friend that can do body work , might consider doing  it with him , Try to get all the rust cut out and tin replaced,  If he knows painting , Maybe you and a helper do the grunt work with his supervision , Get it ready for paint , then decide if you want a quality shop to do it or if your friend has paint experience let him do it but use quality paint .

       Reason I am saying this is because if you take to shop it could get complicated and expensive ,  They will want to remove cab , blast it do the rust repair then do all the sanding and block sanding before paint .   Then your talking wires, gauges , all that goes with removing cab.  "The Now that we are here " syndrome will kick in. 

   Depends how extensive , and money you want to spend .

        If you go to" Builds and projects" page on this forum and click on my" 1200 IH flat bed "you will see that I started out like you and you can follow for an idea .

          JFYI , they quoted me 10,000 to 15,000 for sanding, block sanding, sealing , adjust gaps on doors and hood. Does not include the rust repair or the sound proofing and heat shield being put on by the restorer shop.

   Trying to help you as much as I can , so you can decide.  If I was younger and had a little experience in body work and painting ,I would of tackled it myself.

    However, I am 74 and Only comfortable working on tractors , never good with cars, Much worse with painting , I get more on myself and everything else then I do on that being painted . lol , lol. Plus I wanted it done Before I am so old they take my license ! lol. lol.

    Best of luck,

        Tony

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Having run a few of those trucks back then I can tell you spend a little more on the body work. If you don’t the problem will just come back. The inner fenders around the hood hinges,cab  corners, floor pans and the core support all need close attention.

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Is a whole new cab available?

Do it once and you hopefully will be done for the rest of your life.

Sometimes this is cheaper in the longs run.

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Well thanks for your thoughts.  Yes, Tony, I've followed your flatbed truck thread (and for sure that baler thread - WOW!) and I can see how wanting to do it right could spiral into a bigger job.

If you all agreed that the $5-7k is a realistic number, I just cannot justify that right now, with more important family obligations pressing.  I know there are some shops around that would cram body filler in the rust holes and spray it for $2000, but I'm not going down that road either.  I guess I will leave it for now, use it, keep it clean and parked inside, and try to do the prep work myself as time and funds allow.  My buddy said we could prep it a door, a fender at a time, here, then take to his shop to spray it when all is ready.

Thanks for the advice, as always.  Even not painted, I like it, and I figure its better off here being run a little, than parked in a dirt floor garage just sitting.

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Don’t know how bad the rust is, you could try treat it with a rust converter to halt its progress, then if it needs patch panel repair later or new doors etc I would try and seek out genuine replacements, the fitment of aftermarket usually has other issues that creates more challenges and repair, I notice the fender doesn’t have the trademark buckle over the front wheel which is a bonus

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brother in law just got his 2001 7.3 extra cab redone , used box for 2k from a 2010, front fender  , rocker panels and cab corners, and repaint . only 13 k, 150 thousand miles on it. claims he can sell it for 20 thousand now but not his intentions,  guess I thought that was kind of high,

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What Troy said, also heard  clr water mix with scotchbright pad and then clear.  Patina looks great and it is still original like you remember it.  You can do all and have friend shoot the flat clear to preserve.  Can always paint it later but can't go back to original.  Just a thought

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Yeah, its hard to stop it once it starts.................We did a frame off on my '72 K-20 I drive back in '00'ish................Because of strange events, I had to run it every day all winter one year, rust started even with washing and its starting to get bad again.  Was hoping they would start repop'ing new steel cabs and would just switch it, but hasn't happened yet...............And the good no rust western iron is drying up as popular as they have become.  So as long as I can keep sliding it through our state safety inspection, I am going to drive it.  Even in a garage with concrete, it still is spreading like cancer on the floor and door bottoms.  

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We are out here in the dry climate but a friend who used to live up the road and passed on purchased a rare pickup he thought and its paint was sun burnt and more or less gone. He and his daughter purchased a gallon of farm tractor red paint at the local tractor supply and some paint pads and painted it in the garage. As soon as they were done they drove it outside in the hot sun that afternoon and you could not find a run one on it. I do have to honestly say the paint job was worth about as much as the pickup. But he was a guy whom it did not matter to how it looked

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What would you all use for a rust converter to try to keep it from getting worse?  Something like Rust Kutter?  Or just deal with the rust area by area as we prep it?

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