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Roosa master injection pump rebuild


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I started having problems with the tractor acting starved for power, took the injection pump off to replace the flex ring because it had broken up and was causing internal pressure in the pump. Ordered a rebuild seal kit for it and that’s where I am stuck. I didn’t get a solid weight cage so I am trying to get the flex ring back over the posts where it’s supposed to be but it doesn’t seem to have enough stretch to do it. I tried boiling it in hot water to soften and stretch but it didn’t help. Those pins look like they’re replaceable rivets, is that what I’m supposed to do? Or is there a better idea for how to get the flex ring put in place? 
 

 

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Use a small pair of snap ring pliers. Put both points of the pliers in one of the flex ring holes and work it over one of the pins as you stretch the ring. Have done many this way. 

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You use a pair of snap ring pliers. Put the points through the hole. Squeeze handles enough to form button hole. Place inside edge of button hole under rivet head. Push and lift handles takeing points around head and flipping other edge under head. Much easier to do and show than tell. Really not hard to do.

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I never mess with injection pumps I have a profession injector/nozzle Diesel shop nearby and always take injector issues to them never had a problem using them guys My time can be spent doing other things 

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When I worked in the diesel shop I put together many many Roosa pumps. As others have said you use the true arc snap ring pliers. Only thing different I was taught by my boss and DIS in Sun Prairie was to put one tip in little hole in rivet of weight retainer and other tip in hole of flex ring then rotate or twirl snap ring pliers until all around rivet. Boom they were on.

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8 hours ago, ksfarmdude said:

I never mess with injection pumps I have a profession injector/nozzle Diesel shop nearby and always take injector issues to them never had a problem using them guys My time can be spent doing other things 

Some of the costs are getting pretty outrageous anymore though.  It seems the same price is given for a simple reseal all the way to hard parts being replaced.  The day is coming too that this stuff will be obsolete and nobody will mess with it.  

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just picked up my pump off a 656, 1100.00 canuck bucks to rebuild,governer ring, weights, delivery valve the whole nine yards. what does it cost to get them done in the u.s.?

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2 hours ago, Cdfarabaugh said:

Some of the costs are getting pretty outrageous anymore though.  It seems the same price is given for a simple reseal all the way to hard parts being replaced.  The day is coming too that this stuff will be obsolete and nobody will mess with it.  

I don't have that problem with the shop I use they love the roosa masters and they don't stick it to me they also calibrate the pumps on their test stand two or three days after I take one in its ready to be picked up too

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$ 1100.00 seems high to go through a Rosa Master . Don’t get me wrong , if there is a lot damaged inside from the bad diesel fuel they can get up there in cost , if the cam ring is bad that’s $400.00 and if the head assemble is bad that $1000.00 . When the head is bad or the cam I have some used pumps that I use for parts to help you guys out so you don’t have to buy new .

The best thing I can tell all of you guys is , make sure your fuel tanks are not all rust inside , drain water off you fuel tank , fuel barrels , put additive in your fuel and I would also put one quart of automatic transmission fluid in each tank of fuel when you fuel up your tractor . This is only on your older tractors not any newer electronic motors .

Danny 

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17 minutes ago, DirtBoyz07 said:

$ 1100.00 seems high to go through a Rosa Master . Don’t get me wrong , if there is a lot damaged inside from the bad diesel fuel they can get up there in cost , if the cam ring is bad that’s $400.00 and if the head assemble is bad that $1000.00 . When the head is bad or the cam I have some used pumps that I use for parts to help you guys out so you don’t have to buy new .

The best thing I can tell all of you guys is , make sure your fuel tanks are not all rust inside , drain water off you fuel tank , fuel barrels , put additive in your fuel and I would also put one quart of automatic transmission fluid in each tank of fuel when you fuel up your tractor . This is only on your older tractors not any newer electronic motors .

Danny 

We use additives in the newer tractors also they are even more important to keep extra lubrication in the fuel because of closer tolerances of the injectors and all fuel is filtered twice before ever entering the tractor and each machine gets new fuel filters replaced everytime engine oil is changed 

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17 hours ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

I have to ask--does dropping that ring in hot water for 10 minutes make it easier to install??

It did make it more pliable for about 7 seconds. You could keep dropping it in and out but the real solution was snap ring pliers with a couple 45 degree tips and it spread on pretty slick. 

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