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New to Red and bought a 1586


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Hello all,

New to red tractors and just bought a 1977 1586. I dont know much about IH/Farmall but I saw this tractor while at a customer the other day. Serial number says it is a 1977 with hopefully the original 436 in it. It has the EMCO/Ellwood/Spicer  front axle set up along with TA. The owner before me cut off the cab and left the ROPS bars. It also has the dual PTO. Starts,runs and drives great with no strange noises. All the gauges are working except for the fuel level.

Now for the bad. PTO needs to be taken out and repaired. PO said one of his guys smoked it by engaging it numerous times at full throttle.

TA not working, but it has the electric kit installed that works with the regular TA lever. Other electric gremlins to chase also especially with the mice nest by the fuse panel

Clutch booster needs a reseal.

Left brake not working, but right side is good.

Can anyone help me out with a parts breakdown of the electric TA system as I cant find it in the parts book? Also should I try to bleed the left brake before going deeper?

Usually I buy stuff that doesnt even run, so I think I am already ahead on this one, lol.

1586.jpg

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18 minutes ago, ejb17 said:

Hello all,

New to red tractors and just bought a 1977 1586. I dont know much about IH/Farmall but I saw this tractor while at a customer the other day. Serial number says it is a 1977 with hopefully the original 436 in it. It has the EMCO/Ellwood/Spicer  front axle set up along with TA. The owner before me cut off the cab and left the ROPS bars. It also has the dual PTO. Starts,runs and drives great with no strange noises. All the gauges are working except for the fuel level.

Now for the bad. PTO needs to be taken out and repaired. PO said one of his guys smoked it by engaging it numerous times at full throttle.

TA not working, but it has the electric kit installed that works with the regular TA lever. Other electric gremlins to chase also especially with the mice nest by the fuse panel

Clutch booster needs a reseal.

Left brake not working, but right side is good.

Can anyone help me out with a parts breakdown of the electric TA system as I cant find it in the parts book? Also should I try to bleed the left brake before going deeper?

Usually I buy stuff that doesnt even run, so I think I am already ahead on this one, lol.

1586.jpg

Good luck interesting find

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56 minutes ago, Michigan No Till said:

That's some different Red! Cool ride

436 without a Whistler?

466 same, I don't know,, with a turbo?

My 1440 is a 436 naturally aspirated

The 436 has a turbo in the 1586's. 

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Interesting tractor with the front axle.  If you bought it right you could be money ahead with all those weights and front axle.

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It doesn't look like it ever had an enclosed cab. I think it was an open station from the get go.

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The electric TA would have been adapted from the 30/32/3688 series tractors. You'll have to figure out how it is actuated/wired because that's not something IH provided, I believe.

Hopefully the tires aren't loaded. If so that's way too much weight. Regardless those rear weights would be coming off if it were me. The tractor is plenty heavy enough on its own without all that weight and it has the Elwood axle. 

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Thankfully the rears are not loaded. Thanks for the info. The TA lever actuates a 2 wire switch that resembles a nuetral safety switch and the harness actually has the braid protection on it. The harness routes from what I see back into the fuse box, where some friends made a home the last few years.

The po pulled a sheepfoot with it and did some mowing. The wiring is definitly on the priority list along with a complete service.

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2 hours ago, Matt Kirsch said:

The electric TA would have been adapted from the 30/32/3688 series tractors. You'll have to figure out how it is actuated/wired because that's not something IH provided, I believe.

Hopefully the tires aren't loaded. If so that's way too much weight. Regardless those rear weights would be coming off if it were me. The tractor is plenty heavy enough on its own without all that weight and it has the Elwood axle. 

IH offered a retrofit kit for the electric shift of the ta on earlier tractors but the only service information I have seen other than the original installation instructions would be using the 3088-3688 Chassis service manual or the 2+2  CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL

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14 hours ago, ejb17 said:

Can anyone help me out with a parts breakdown of the electric TA system as I cant find it in the parts book? Also should I try to bleed the left brake before going deeper?

Along with your other questions I would say you need to buy an IH service manual for the tractor.  Reprint books are available and very easy to find. 

I have never seen or heard of an electric conversion for the T/A in an 86 series.  It would have to have been either adapted from the 3X88 series tractors, or perhaps aftermarket.  I do think the failure rate on the electric T/A's is much better (do not fail as often) because the switch is made immediately instead of the operator "slipping" it.  They are actually pretty easy to work on.  

On the brake, I have never seen a brake wear out on a 15 tractor.  The brakes are enormous.  Usually any problem with them is in the valve or piping.  Bleed it and see what it does.  I suppose the o-ring on the brake piston could have failed, but it is major work to get to it.  Diagnose and repair as necessary.  As stated, use the manual. 

That is a 4 post ROPS tractor.  Never had an enclosed cab.  Likely used to have a top on it though that was removed.  

Very good buy if you paid the right amount. Hope you did.  What are your intentions with it... just curious? 

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5 hours ago, ejb17 said:

Thankfully the rears are not loaded. Thanks for the info. The TA lever actuates a 2 wire switch that resembles a nuetral safety switch and the harness actually has the braid protection on it. The harness routes from what I see back into the fuse box, where some friends made a home the last few years.

The po pulled a sheepfoot with it and did some mowing. The wiring is definitly on the priority list along with a complete service.

I would go back to a cable. Hopefully the bracket is still there.

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I was around a tractor with an electric ta setup. It's actually an electric over hydraulic system, It worked well i thought.  There is a button switch that is at the end of the ta lever and also one for the clutch that will kick the ta back into low when you push in the clutch all the way. At it's rested state the ta is on low, when the solenoid is energized the ta goes into high. There might be a fuse in the wire harness that could be blown, also it could be a bad button switch or even the solenoid itself. Take a test light and see where you have power, just remember that it needs to be energized on the high side.

I thought it was a better setup than the cable. You don't have to worry about it being in proper adjustment or getting sticky and so forth. Yes you have the wiring but if you're good at diagnosing wiring and have a basic understanding of how the system works it's pretty easy. I liked the system so much I moved it to another tractor after we put the one it was on out of service.

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I don't see any reason you can't just put the electric T/A on a toggle switch and forget the micro switches and dash lever.  If you're going to reach for a lever, might as well flip a switch.  You could mount it anywhere you want that is handy. 

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1 hour ago, J-Mech said:

I don't see any reason you can't just put the electric T/A on a toggle switch and forget the micro switches and dash lever.  If you're going to reach for a lever, might as well flip a switch.  You could mount it anywhere you want that is handy. 

You certainly could do it that way. This was either part of a lot or somebody took parts from a 3x88 tractor. In addition to the ta valve there was an electric over hydraulic valve for the trans brake as well, I didn't move that over. I just used the ta lever because it was familiar and that tractor saw many operators.

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Thanks for all the suggestions.

I am in the process of looking to buy all the books.

After looking at the 3x88 parts diagram for the electric TA, that is exactly what I have except for the handy toggle switch. This tractor has a switch mounted to a bracket on the firewall that the TA lever hits when pulled. Everything looks kind of official, like it was a kit, so I have to check the wiring starting there and going to the solenoid on the hydraulic block. I wondered why the clutch lever is attached to the TA lever on the side of the tranny. So my switch on the firewall should be closed when the key is on and open when the lever is pulled and pushing on the switch. Makes sense now. Thank you.

So these tractors were available without the cab? There is no wiring left and no A/C stuff at all on the tractor. Perhaps somebody did a good job cutting the cab off? 

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So no real plans other than mowing with it. I am a trucker by trade and try to use our tractors for jobs that come up. Lots of neighbors need mowing now because the town is all over them for unkept properties. I am also kind of a tractor junkie and always leaned to the green and yellow side, but recently sold a Moline U302 FWA and just couldnt be w/o a FWA tractor that has some character to it. I like that IH/Farmall has good parts availability. This is a big tractor for us, but it seems like we were always trying to do something that was always taxing the ability of what we had. Certainly overkill now.

Needs a muffler also , as I like quiet. When did the tractors become "aspirated", and what exactly did that do?

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The cab ROPS framework is different from the 4-post ROPS framework. You definitely have the 4-post ROPS framework with the roof removed.

I'd have to believe that 1586's overwhelmingly came equipped with cabs. They certainly could come with the 4-post ROPS but it was probably by special order.

There is also the possibility that the original cab was so badly deteriorated that it was removed and replaced with a 4-post ROPS deck from an 886 or 986 where they were most common.

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Pretty sure that's a cabbed tractor that's had most of the cab gutted.

Easiest way to tell is the lip where the door used to seal on the fender. True 4 post ROPs tractors dont have that lip.

Look at pics of the 1086 taco tractors too see.

 

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My advice is before you do anything else, investigate your brake problem.  Could be minor, may not be.  Those brakes are great until they aren’t.

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2 hours ago, brahamfireman said:

Pretty sure that's a cabbed tractor that's had most of the cab gutted.

Easiest way to tell is the lip where the door used to seal on the fender. True 4 post ROPs tractors dont have that lip.

Look at pics of the 1086 taco tractors too see.

 

Ok I bite what is a taco tractor, is it a mexican tractor.

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this is my 1086, with the factory ROPS. I added the front window kit from a 186.

100_1880.thumb.JPG.b6b362b98a4f5d98148bbfaef53f4efa.JPG

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