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Which 86 or 66 series for Batwing on hills


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18 hours ago, Murr said:

If it slips, or owner says it's not working, is there a risk of free wheeling if I don't fix the TA but also don't ever try to use the TA?

Short answer, yes.  If the T/A fails completely, or a specific part, free wheeling is possible.  You will still have brakes, and parking brake, but you may not be able to move the tractor.  Not using the T/A is no guarantee that it can't fail.  It is a hydraulic component.  Even if it is never used, it can still fail. If you buy a tractor with T/A problems, pay accordingly and plan to fix it. 

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On 9/3/2020 at 10:10 PM, FarmerFixEmUp said:

My neighbor did this to my 1466 a few years ago. He hit the throttle coming out of a ditch in high 3rd and lost control going across the road. I guess he didn't think that 436 had enough spunk to make the ditch, but then he owned 4430's so he was used to no bottom end power!😆If that cab wasn't on there he'd be severely injured or dead right now.  He called me when it happened and asked how to shut the tractor off since he rolled it, I said yeah sure you did. He assured me he did, I told him to grab the rod on the injection pump and yank it forward. Got it on it's wheels and checked the oil and drove it home. 

There has to be a roll bar in that cab or he would have been pinched between the seat and the cab roof. The back window and doors never even got bent.  People hate these cabs for some reason but for the era they were built they did just fine. I bought a 1066 later on just like it. AC works great. 

 

 

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After I saw he was alright I would have tried to whip his tail over that . Nobody but family borrows my stuff and they know what they’re doing . We each got some low  use things that we all use from time to time. 

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On 9/3/2020 at 3:55 PM, J-Mech said:

Cab tractor 86 series or newer.  Keep the glass in.  Taking it out would be ridiculous.  If you are going to do that, buy a cabless tractor.  Duals, same size as the other tires, slightly less pressure (just like you always do on duals).  No smaller than a 1086 for a 15' batwing.  Avoid 66 series cab tractors unless you like fixing air conditioning.  Plus that cab is not a ROPS.  Heavy build, but I do not think it was ROPS rated.  Besides that, 66 series cabs are worse than 86 for being able to work on the tractor.  

I don't agree with "nothing smaller then a 1086 for a 15 batwing".I have one,ran it with my H70 with zero problems,cutting weeds as high as front  of tractor .I mow mostly with a 1066 on it.Just because it has a cab.I never  understood  the thought  that one needs a thousand  hp on a rotary mower.Once you get them running, they are  pretty efficient in use of HP.

 

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2 hours ago, Jacka said:

I don't agree with "nothing smaller then a 1086 for a 15 batwing".I have one,ran it with my H70 with zero problems,cutting weeds as high as front  of tractor .I mow mostly with a 1066 on it.Just because it has a cab.I never  understood  the thought  that one needs a thousand  hp on a rotary mower.Once you get them running, they are  pretty efficient in use of HP.

 

I would not want anything less than 100hp on a 15' batwing in what we mow, I have shared this before numerous times, 1 to 3 yr growth CRP with wild plum and switchgrass/indian grass, stuff tall as cab on tractor and it will put a 100hp tractor on its knees and over heating in short order. The old 15 footers are HEAVY too and if you are near ditches or on terraces you need the weight and stopping power - i could see 70hp easy on lighter stuff and topping things - It wears me out running my buddies 2-105 white - its a great tractor but it will overheat in the tall stuff and is stock - i love using my 5088 better - as with anything you can get by with smaller HP and weight depending on the situation - that is why they make so many sizes for us to choose from  - original question was for batwing on HILLS, you want as reasonable size in weight/hp as you can muster for that. 

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Thanks for the clarifications on the TA guys and for all your replies.  I may have found a 986 down the road to go look at.  Really would prefer 1486 but I'll see what this one is all about.  Appreciate it!

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On 9/4/2020 at 7:02 AM, FarmallFan said:

 

I have edited the topic title to be correct. :)

Oh for crype sakes. OK thanks DJ. Watch your typing every one. It can get misleading in a hurry. I always proof read what I typed before turning it loose on the WWW. Lol.

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On 9/3/2020 at 2:55 PM, J-Mech said:

Cab tractor 86 series or newer.  Keep the glass in.  Taking it out would be ridiculous.  If you are going to do that, buy a cabless tractor.  Duals, same size as the other tires, slightly less pressure (just like you always do on duals).  No smaller than a 1086 for a 15' batwing.  Avoid 66 series cab tractors unless you like fixing air conditioning.  Plus that cab is not a ROPS.  Heavy build, but I do not think it was ROPS rated.  Besides that, 66 series cabs are worse than 86 for being able to work on the tractor.  

So what is the truth about Ruth here- as far as the ROPS cab goes- someone correct me if I’m wrong. 

I always thought the IH “Deluxe” cab on the IH ‘66 series was a ROPS rated cab. 

Conversely, I always thought the “Diamond” cab on the ‘66 series was NOT ROPS rated. ???

That 1466 rolled in the pics above is something else for what little cosmetic damage it received. Looks like a perfect example of a “steering wheel holder” driver there- how in thee heck do you flip that thing like that. I’ve driven my tractors up and down inclines before or through a shallow ditch now and then, but I would never change gears or attempt to gun the throttle in “mid stream”. I would pre-determine and establish my settings prior to entering the obstacle or terrain to be traversed. No sudden increased speed changes while in a precarious attitude. Dang.... 

 

 

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35 minutes ago, Rick G. said:

So what is the truth about Ruth here- as far as the ROPS cab goes- someone correct me if I’m wrong. 

I always thought the IH “Deluxe” cab on the IH ‘66 series was a ROPS rated cab. 

Conversely, I always thought the “Diamond” cab on the ‘66 series was NOT ROPS rated. ???

That 1466 rolled in the pics above is something else for what little cosmetic damage it received. Looks like a perfect example of a “steering wheel holder” driver there- how in thee heck do you flip that thing like that. I’ve driven my tractors up and down inclines before or through a shallow ditch now and then, but I would never change gears or attempt to gun the throttle in “mid stream”. I would pre-determine and establish my settings prior to entering the obstacle or terrain to be traversed. No sudden increased speed changes while in a precarious attitude. Dang.... 

 

 

You are correct on the ROPS rateing

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in my experience SLOW is better vs FAST on any tractor situation with question of complications or butt pucker - of course if a mud hole is coming up, then get a run at it!!!

 

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On 9/5/2020 at 9:44 PM, searcyfarms said:

I would not want anything less than 100hp on a 15' batwing in what we mow, I have shared this before numerous times, 1 to 3 yr growth CRP with wild plum and switchgrass/indian grass, stuff tall as cab on tractor and it will put a 100hp tractor on its knees and over heating in short order. The old 15 footers are HEAVY too and if you are near ditches or on terraces you need the weight and stopping power - i could see 70hp easy on lighter stuff and topping things - It wears me out running my buddies 2-105 white - its a great tractor but it will overheat in the tall stuff and is stock - i love using my 5088 better - as with anything you can get by with smaller HP and weight depending on the situation - that is why they make so many sizes for us to choose from  - original question was for batwing on HILLS, you want as reasonable size in weight/hp as you can muster for that. 

I have to agree with you on your HP per width. BTO I worked for bought a 160 acres that was a bare 80 on one side of the road 2+ miles away, and another 80 with dilapidated buildings and divided up into 5 odd shaped fields of permanent pasture. He had me mow as much of the pasture as I could get over with his old 4020 non-AC cab tractor and Deere 12 ft rotary mower, Batwings were still  15-20 years in the future. I spent most of my time in 2nd & 3rd gear. Going uphill didn't bother me much, but there were 20+ years of dead stuff down in the current year's green stuff.  I did such a good job of mowing I got to plow those hills the following spring.  I'm sure today's batwings handle tough tall tangled weeds better than that Deere mower did.

If your going to cut tall stuff with a 15 ft batwing I'd want 120+ hp, 10 or 1486.

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23 hours ago, searcyfarms said:

in my experience SLOW is better vs FAST on any tractor situation with question of complications or butt pucker - of course if a mud hole is coming up, then get a run at it!!!

 

Yep, I always remembered this image from the owners manuals. Doesn't change a lot on a hill side, but I know I'll still hit dips and debris on a hill side.

image.thumb.png.25704a42808aca89b07eedcd444c0df8.png

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Not batwing related but on the ROPS discussion I have this picture to add.20200220_130724.thumb.jpg.a3752e97d0d5f9914467eb81b239ee66.jpg

The driver (cant say "operator"...) was totally unharmed. Went around the corner too fast and went over. Snapped some front axle pieces, the cast nose, radiator and fan and some small things.  Broke the side window I think but tractor looked surprisingly good when we got it back upright. 

Oh yea...he had owned it less than 10 minutes.

He opted to have it hauled to him once it was fixed. 

I'm nearly positive I remember seeing the ROPS sticker on these cabs.

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4 hours ago, Super A_sepa said:

Not batwing related but on the ROPS discussion I have this picture to add.20200220_130724.thumb.jpg.a3752e97d0d5f9914467eb81b239ee66.jpg

The driver (cant say "operator"...) was totally unharmed. Went around the corner too fast and went over. Snapped some front axle pieces, the cast nose, radiator and fan and some small things.  Broke the side window I think but tractor looked surprisingly good when we got it back upright. 

Oh yea...he had owned it less than 10 minutes.

He opted to have it hauled to him once it was fixed. 

I'm nearly positive I remember seeing the ROPS sticker on these cabs.

some people just shouldnt be allowed to drive heavy equipment - as must as some people like to fuss about slow farmers going down the road, there is a reason the speed is limited

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On 9/3/2020 at 1:21 PM, Murr said:

Hi all, I've got about 200 acres of pasture I need to start bush hogging with my Bush Hog 2715 batwing.  I've got some pretty good hills (in southern middle tennessee) and want something that will handle the batwing going up the hills and not be pushed going down it.  It won't be used in anything too heavy, just clipping pastures.  I'm planning on a cab for safety from rocks etc but am open to suggestions on no-cab for stability.  I've been considering and watching auctions on the 986, 1086 and 1486 as well as the 966 and 1066.  Understand at this age it depends on how the tractor was taken care of but any suggestions on which might be best in general?   I've driven a no cab 966 and a cab 1486.  THe 86 cab doesn't bother me.

 

Hi Murr....  I thought I might be able to give some commentary.  I live in Loudon County TN (Lenoir City area).  According to my father in law, the hill we're on is the tallest hill in the county.  I cut (guessing) 125 acres.  Farm is 250 but a mix of fields/woods so I don't have any real clue.

Bought a 15' hydraulic mower, much to the love of the guys on this forum.  Works great and leaves a very nice cut.  I bought a 1066 which is probably more oomph than I need to get it going but that wasn't my concern.  My concern was getting it stopped coming down the big hill.

I don't have duals on the rear and usually cut the fields (unless thick) in 4th gear.  What once took me literally a full summer to get cut (cutting after work and on some weekends) can now be done in a full long day if I want to kill myself.  

The nice part, when I'm going down the big hill, when I hit the brakes, the first thing I'm alerting for is what's happening and thus far, going straight down, going sideways down....  it stops the mower.

We used to cut same place with a 886 and 986 (brother in laws & father in laws) pulling a HD Rhino 10' cutter and those tractors handled the 10' with ease.  I would THINK they'd handle this too but I found the 1066 and am fine with it.  I would like it if it had the cab like those other two however, with branches & such....  I could also see a broken window in my life....and on one of them, the AC didn't work turning it into an oven.  

I would think with duals you would reduce your turning radius??  Since I'm using a hydraulic mower, I don't have to be terribly concerned about turning angles, I can turn the mower near 90 degrees.

 

 

 

 

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Great to know Coytee, I appreciate that insight.  Makes me feel better about using a 986/1086/1486 on the hills.  I"m bidding on a couple tomorrow and talking with a couple people mostly all in Iowa/Neb area.  Hard to find them still being used and in good condition down here.  

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Last two years I mowed with a 1586 and a 15' Bush Hog brand batwing.   It has (12) 100lb weights on the front and it needs them for the hills I mow.   The 15 series tractors have planetary rear axles, and it helps going down hills that the tractor doesn't get pushed as much.   I have mowed with my 986 on level ground and it's plenty on level ground but no way near enough on hills unless you really gear down. 

 

This year I mowed with my 7130 FWA magnum because my 15 is down for some repairs.  At first I thought it was silly, but FWA helps just as much going down steep hills as it does going up.  Plus with the heavier tractor and 4 wheel braking I don't get pushed around as much! 

 

My buddy has a 3715 and I have a 2615.  The 3715 is way heavier than mine and down hill will push even a 1586 with full front weights, loaded tires, and two sets of weights inside. 

 

If you can swing the coin a magnum costs, and better yet a FWA magnum it's a much nicer ride than an 86 series and I love the 86 series!!!!! 

 

RP 1586! 2.jpg

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