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Which 86 or 66 series for Batwing on hills


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Hi all, I've got about 200 acres of pasture I need to start bush hogging with my Bush Hog 2715 batwing.  I've got some pretty good hills (in southern middle tennessee) and want something that will handle the batwing going up the hills and not be pushed going down it.  It won't be used in anything too heavy, just clipping pastures.  I'm planning on a cab for safety from rocks etc but am open to suggestions on no-cab for stability.  I've been considering and watching auctions on the 986, 1086 and 1486 as well as the 966 and 1066.  Understand at this age it depends on how the tractor was taken care of but any suggestions on which might be best in general?   I've driven a no cab 966 and a cab 1486.  THe 86 cab doesn't bother me.

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Duals are helpful for stability while mowing on hills.  If not, widen your rear tires as far as you can.  I sold a gentleman a cab for a 1066 a few years ago.  He rolled it mowing a steep hillside out by his pond.  He said the log chain flying around the cab was exciting! He keeps it outside the cab now.

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All of these tractors are essentially the same size, weight , etc.   Cab & HP is really the only difference.  You definitely want a cab while mowing, preferably a roll cage one, and it can stop the little chips, etc the mower tosses around.   Duals are good. 

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966 came on 34's I think 

most of the tractors have 38's or up, great for the field not so much on the steep

Roll bar/canopy is less weight up high compared to cab........or take out cab glass to reduce weight

If you run duals for the width consider running the outside tires a size down in circumference (not as tall by a little bit) as I've seen that approach on many videos from overseas where they farm vertical.  Sometimes the outer tire is very narrow compared to the inner as well.

 

 

 

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Cab tractor 86 series or newer.  Keep the glass in.  Taking it out would be ridiculous.  If you are going to do that, buy a cabless tractor.  Duals, same size as the other tires, slightly less pressure (just like you always do on duals).  No smaller than a 1086 for a 15' batwing.  Avoid 66 series cab tractors unless you like fixing air conditioning.  Plus that cab is not a ROPS.  Heavy build, but I do not think it was ROPS rated.  Besides that, 66 series cabs are worse than 86 for being able to work on the tractor.  

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good to know on the 66 series cab not being rops rated and harder to work on the tractor with, I was wondering about the rops thing.  In place of duals, would moving the tires out wider suffice?  I'm def leaning towards 986/1086/1486 with cab.  Just got to find one in good condition. 

One more question about the TA.  I don't really see a situation where I'd care if I had the TA or not.  Is there any downside or safety issue to running one where the TA isn't working?  Seems like a costly repair if someone doesn't really need it.

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Mine all slide with duals, never seen a dualed one roll around here. Some with singles have. Couple times raking hay with singles chickened out when sliding slightly so swapped to dualed tractor.

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Actually the TA is really useful for mowing....can run in 2 HI.... hit a heavy spot or steep hill, no need to clutch, just pull the TA back.    Sort of like a Hydro is nice for mowing hay , the T/A lets you slow down without shifting.  I run a 666 on a 8' Bushhog, would NOT want to be w/o the T/A.

As long as the T/A does not freewheel, shouldn't be a problem.   

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1 hour ago, Murr said:

good to know on the 66 series cab not being rops rated and harder to work on the tractor with, I was wondering about the rops thing.  In place of duals, would moving the tires out wider suffice?  I'm def leaning towards 986/1086/1486 with cab.  Just got to find one in good condition. 

One more question about the TA.  I don't really see a situation where I'd care if I had the TA or not.  Is there any downside or safety issue to running one where the TA isn't working?  Seems like a costly repair if someone doesn't really need it.

The deluxe cab on a 66 series is rops rated the custom cab was not to me a 66 cab with hinges is easier  to work on  than an 86 series 

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What is your interest then in bringing up the ‘68 series??? Is there one available near you? A 1468 will have the 4 speed transmission, and the 1568 will have three speeds. If it were me, I would stick with the inline 6 cylinder engined tractors. Why complicate things with the V-8?

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15 minutes ago, Rick G. said:

What is your interest then in bringing up the ‘68 series??? Is there one available near you? A 1468 will have the 4 speed transmission, and the 1568 will have three speeds. If it were me, I would stick with the inline 6 cylinder engined tractors. Why complicate things with the V-8?

It was a typo.  In his first post he talks about 66 and 86 tractors.  No mention of 68's.  

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My neighbor did this to my 1466 a few years ago. He hit the throttle coming out of a ditch in high 3rd and lost control going across the road. I guess he didn't think that 436 had enough spunk to make the ditch, but then he owned 4430's so he was used to no bottom end power!😆If that cab wasn't on there he'd be severely injured or dead right now.  He called me when it happened and asked how to shut the tractor off since he rolled it, I said yeah sure you did. He assured me he did, I told him to grab the rod on the injection pump and yank it forward. Got it on it's wheels and checked the oil and drove it home. 

There has to be a roll bar in that cab or he would have been pinched between the seat and the cab roof. The back window and doors never even got bent.  People hate these cabs for some reason but for the era they were built they did just fine. I bought a 1066 later on just like it. AC works great. 

 

 

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2 hours ago, FarmerFixEmUp said:

My neighbor did this to my 1466 a few years ago. He hit the throttle coming out of a ditch in high 3rd and lost control going across the road. I guess he didn't think that 436 had enough spunk to make the ditch, but then he owned 4430's so he was used to no bottom end power!😆If that cab wasn't on there he'd be severely injured or dead right now.  He called me when it happened and asked how to shut the tractor off since he rolled it, I said yeah sure you did. He assured me he did, I told him to grab the rod on the injection pump and yank it forward. Got it on it's wheels and checked the oil and drove it home. 

There has to be a roll bar in that cab or he would have been pinched between the seat and the cab roof. The back window and doors never even got bent.  People hate these cabs for some reason but for the era they were built they did just fine. I bought a 1066 later on just like it. AC works great. 

 

 

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These 66 series cabs were rops certified. Tag on them maybe right behind the seat ? 

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FARMERFIXEMUP - You didn't ever loan that neighbor any more equipment did you?  I learned the same lesson DAD learned,  some neighbors are so hard on stuff that isn't their's you are time ahead to take Your tractor and equipment to their farm and do the work for them, and bring your equipment home in one piece. There were a couple neighbors Dad absolutely would not loan stuff to.  I loaned my pickup to my brother-in-law to haul his stuff to school about 200 miles away.  Illinois still had twice a year safety inspections for pickups, my truck was borderline O-K on the brake balance test, inspector kept telling me I had a rear brake not working very well. I finally fixed that, new brake shoes, new wheel cylinder, new parking brake cables. It passed the test with flying colors. I loan truck out,  should have had 500 more miles on it, but had over 1000 more miles. Next truck inspection my truck fails the brake test! I go home and pull the rear wheels and brake drums off. Turns out most of those 1000 miles the parking brake was about 3-4 clicks on, brakes dragged enough, got so hot all the hardware, shoes, drums looked like they were just about on fire.  On a good day I got 14 mpg,  bet he got TEN tops.

    From then on, somebody wants to borrow something I go WITH whatever he/she wanted to borrow.  I'm time and money ahead.

I'm really surprised how little damage was done to your 1466.

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9 hours ago, Rick G. said:

What is your interest then in bringing up the ‘68 series??? Is there one available near you? A 1468 will have the 4 speed transmission, and the 1568 will have three speeds. If it were me, I would stick with the inline 6 cylinder engined tractors. Why complicate things with the V-8?

 

9 hours ago, J-Mech said:

It was a typo.  In his first post he talks about 66 and 86 tractors.  No mention of 68's.  

I have edited the topic title to be correct. :)

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I didn't fix it myself. The insurance company paid me out around $2500 for  it and I sold it to another party who took off the cab and replaced the TA which was weak anyway. I had already bought another cab to go on it which went to the buyer. 

The weak TA may have had something to do with the wreck. Sometimes it would just stop if you had the lever back and then grab really fast. I told the guy not to use it but he might have anyway.

I should have taken the TA lever off I guess. 

I bought that tractor from a forum member here.I always liked that tractor. It had about 160 HP on the dyno and I had put on these big 700 plus pound wheel weights.20.8 x 38 radial tires. It pulled that 9 shank disc chisel pretty well.  It had no 3 point but the top rockshaft and sensing tube were all there. 

It only had about 4500 hours on it and I found a paper in the cab it had been overhauled about 600 hours before. I had just replaced the cab interior and was going to fix the TA and other issues and get it painted. 

This is what I replaced it with. I still want another 1466 though someday. 

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36 minutes ago, TP from Central PA said:

Did you ever get that 1466 fixed back up?  Seem to remember a small issue you found and parked it then?  That was when you bought the one 10 right?

I sold my 826 and bought the other 1066 off Auction Time. Another project in the works. The guy who sold this one says his dad bought it new. 2800 actual hours.Came from Kansas. Cab interior was shot which has been replaced. Needs paint badly. It must have never seen a shed, the tires were all badly cracked. 

 

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One thing I'm still confused on is the TA.  If it slips, or owner says it's not working, is there a risk of free wheeling if I don't fix the TA but also don't ever try to use the TA?  And next question - anyone know where I can find a good 86 series around TN/AL/KY area?

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No it wont automaticly free wheel if it slips in the low side, tho anything is possible under certain conditions i guess. Dont think its usually a problem. Others will chime in im sure.

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Direct or high side of ta is controled by a hydraulic clutch pack. So unless you lose hyd pressure or burn out that clutch it shouldnt freewheel is my understanding. The sprauge that engages low side when the direct clutch pack is  released starts slipping often times. Hopefully that makes sense.

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