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....for what little this might be worth to you, Seth......we are "Fixing up "   a 114 yr old house,......after getting quote s for   'period ' windows etc........quotes that made me reach for the BP pills.....we found a bloke who actually refurbishes    the whole...old ..windows in thier entirety....(.including  retro fitting double    glazing.)......the huge old window frames /sills etc lose about one thirty second   of an inch in dimension.......never noticeable......and  he is machine stripping various lintels and other 'flat'  bits of timber, that are simply ready to put back up again.....door frames etc.......the 'planer ' cutters are quicker than paint stripper..!!...and , I believe, make a almost perfect job........

Mike

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I have used the peel away before doesn't work and better than the others and will discolor the wood plus it requires a wash down afterwards to neutralize.

Your best bet is to replace and you could even get nicer wood and you will still be way ahead of stripping.

When you figure in the time it takes to strip it you could make more money working with that time and have carpenter come in and do it for you.

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4 hours ago, mike newman said:

....for what little this might be worth to you, Seth......we are "Fixing up "   a 114 yr old house,......after getting quote s for   'period ' windows etc........quotes that made me reach for the BP pills.....we found a bloke who actually refurbishes    the whole...old ..windows in thier entirety....(.including  retro fitting double    glazing.)......the huge old window frames /sills etc lose about one thirty second   of an inch in dimension.......never noticeable......and  he is machine stripping various lintels and other 'flat'  bits of timber, that are simply ready to put back up again.....door frames etc.......the 'planer ' cutters are quicker than paint stripper..!!...and , I believe, make a almost perfect job........

Mike

Windows are crazy pricey! Especially for these old houses IF you’re trying to keep the character of the house. I put in 6 windows, 2 were 34*78, the other were Bay windows and were 24* 78. 
I attempted to get a quote from one company and the idiot I was talking to said to me ( after telling him the dimensions);

” that’s taller than you”. Yea, no sh^+ Sherlock 🤬

 

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1 hour ago, jeeper61 said:

I have used the peel away before doesn't work and better than the others and will discolor the wood plus it requires a wash down afterwards to neutralize.

Your best bet is to replace and you could even get nicer wood and you will still be way ahead of stripping.

When you figure in the time it takes to strip it you could make more money working with that time and have carpenter come in and do it for you.

Went through this many years ago with an old house.  previous owners had painted over beautiful chestnut wood moulding.  Found a shop that refinished furniture and took the moulding to them.  They had a large vat that they dipped the moulding in.  Worked out very well and it wasn't that expensive. 

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34 minutes ago, Eric V Bielke said:

Went through this many years ago with an old house.  previous owners had painted over beautiful chestnut wood moulding.  Found a shop that refinished furniture and took the moulding to them.  They had a large vat that they dipped the moulding in.  Worked out very well and it wasn't that expensive. 

Good idea striping that way would be best bet

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This may be a little out there but have you ever looked at dry ice blasting? It has become a fairly common technology that can even be rented. The only mess you are left with is the removed paint as the blasting media (dry ice pellets) turn back into gas upon contact with the workpiece. 

It is used quite a bit nowadays for various residential restoration applications including paint removal from intricate woodwork and mold removal as there is very low to zero likelihood of damaging the underlying material. 

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4 minutes ago, SAM86 said:

This may be a little out there but have you ever looked at dry ice blasting? It has become a fairly common technology that can even be rented. The only mess you are left with is the removed paint as the blasting media (dry ice pellets) turn back into gas upon contact with the workpiece. 

It is used quite a bit nowadays for various residential restoration applications including paint removal from intricate woodwork and mold removal as there is very low to zero likelihood of damaging the underlying material. 

Never heard of it, but I’ll check it out! 

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1 minute ago, 1586 Jeff said:

I would like to see that!!!

I would imagine the freezing effect would be the part that makes it work the best. 

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33 minutes ago, 1586 Jeff said:

I would like to see that!!!

 

31 minutes ago, vtfireman85 said:

I would imagine the freezing effect would be the part that makes it work the best. 

Search dry ice cleaning / blasting on youtube and watch to your heart's content. 

The freezing effect really doesn't do the work, its the instantaneous impact and rapid expansion of the frozen pellet turning back into into a gas. The freezing part only has to do with generating the blasting media, in this case dry ice pellets. 

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9 hours ago, SAM86 said:

This may be a little out there but have you ever looked at dry ice blasting? It has become a fairly common technology that can even be rented. The only mess you are left with is the removed paint as the blasting media (dry ice pellets) turn back into gas upon contact with the workpiece. 

It is used quite a bit nowadays for various residential restoration applications including paint removal from intricate woodwork and mold removal as there is very low to zero likelihood of damaging the underlying material. 

A friend of mine is trying to get one to use on semi truck frames. Says you can blast a frame and not worry about hoses or seals. The unit he is looking at is around $40k. Says you can strip a frame to bare metal in about 2hrs and would charge around $300 an hr. The unit he wants is back ordered because of the “pandemic” bs.....

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5 minutes ago, New Englander said:

House old enough to have lead paint? I wouldn't want to release any lead dust.

House was built in 77, but all the trim work in question was done between 97-98

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4 minutes ago, vtfireman85 said:

House was built in 77, but all the trim work in question was done between 97-98

Cool! No problem then. It'll be interesting to hear what the solution turns out to be.

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2 minutes ago, New Englander said:

Cool! No problem then. It'll be interesting to hear what the solution turns out to be.

Had we not had a fire call last night right as I was about to head home I was going to try the citristrip with on a section, by the time I got done and dealt with the critters it was too late to start that, maybe tonight! 
im very intrigued with the dry ice blasting, but probably not for this project, true, it would be easier to rip off and start fresh but I don’t feel right about it given the situation I’m in.  If it doesn’t work out chemically, I’ll revisit this option. 

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.......I frankly would remove and replace the trim.  Easier...faster...same results

Its not some heirloom stuff it soinds like

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Blue Bear (formerly known as Soy Gel) paint stripper.

 

I've used this a couple of times - once to strip an old walnut bar of probably 70 years plus of old finishes of every kind.

It's made right here in Illinois from soybean oil and is very benign to work with, and it works better than anything I've ever used, including the citrus cleaners.  No fumes, and not very hard on the skin.

I highly recommend it.

https://products.franmar.com/collections/consumer-products/products/blue-bear-paint-stripper-with-safenol?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm-jU-77P6wIVAtvACh1XXwtwEAAYASAAEgJ2q_D_BwE

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I refinished a cradle for my baby this summer. I used the stripper product from Kleen Strip which is available everywhere (except California of course). It worked very well. I also used the Afterwash product too. 

I can't say if it's the best way, since I've only done this once, but it worked. It was a Jenny Lind cradle, and therefore had a bunch of little turned features with grooves that I had to get into. I used a plastic bristle brush. It was an ugly mess and took me all day, but I was totally happy with the result. 

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If you dry ice blast inside make certain you have plenty of ventilation. 

I know people who painted their brick house! They turned a no maintenance surface into a maintenance surface. Idiots!

Thx-Ace 

 

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1 hour ago, TroyDairy said:

.......I frankly would remove and replace the trim.  Easier...faster...same results

Its not some heirloom stuff it soinds like

That’s just it, it is...kinda, my FIL built it and did all this so I really wanted to keep it intact 

An heirloom, just not an old one 

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3 hours ago, vtfireman85 said:

Had we not had a fire call last night right as I was about to head home I was going to try the citristrip with on a section, by the time I got done and dealt with the critters it was too late to start that, maybe tonight! 
im very intrigued with the dry ice blasting, but probably not for this project, true, it would be easier to rip off and start fresh but I don’t feel right about it given the situation I’m in.  If it doesn’t work out chemically, I’ll revisit this option. 

Replace with a duplicate moulding....no one would be the wiser😉
You may have to send your wife and girlfriend fishing again, I know a good spot...😂😂😂

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Well here is my test piece as of 7pm Friday night. 

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0EEA72B8-D82D-495B-96D9-C0F7478EEB4D.jpeg

1BC2C61D-6383-498D-BCBB-91566152769D.jpeg

1E3462B4-BB8F-4FC1-82AC-A422A9A06FD8.jpeg

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As of 9 tonight.. I’m waiting until tomorrow to scrape.

60274146-5AEC-4DAE-95F5-3BE0978C245B.jpeg

F198BA41-D56A-4C38-8C1C-3960C5E4B99C.jpeg

66BC5B1E-6359-4803-AAB7-6D796D3401AA.jpeg

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Well, after re-applying with more stripper and using Saran Wrap to “seal” the stripper in as recommended I needed up here this morning. The “fancy” molding I was trying to save, and I didn’t like anyway, turns out to be nothing but store bought added on to 5”x3/4 premium. Frigg it I say, I’ll start new, only thing I’ll try to strip is the actual door casing , once I pull all the trim off and the door stops off it will be straightforward. The stripper works well but masking is useless as the masking tape soaks in and ruins whatever it is stick to, even though I did several layers. 

BD5C5359-3E8F-4769-BF58-D544C3BEEFF6.jpeg

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