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444 hydraulic problems


tw77

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Few points about the 444 hydraulic (I've been through all this within the last year):

  • Tractor steers even without pump (engine shut off) because there is a hand pump built into the steering box
  • That canister in front of the shift lever holds an additional filter for the rear remote hydraulic connections
  • For the guy who wanted to remove the hydraulic valve body, the shop manual calls for the entire 3pt hitch system/ operator seat assembly to be unbolted, and the front raised 4 inches and rested on wooden blocks in order to get access to that one blocked bolt.  I did that, but just kept it suspended while I worked on the valve body
  • Depending on what set up yo have, there are three filters to clean or replace: 1) low pressure suction filter; 2) small cigarette-sized filter attached to the orifice and accessible via a cap that looks like another bolt head on the valve body; 3) that canister-held filter for the remote
  • There are two hand valves on the standard 444 hydraulic valve body; one is the fast/slow valve and the other is an isolator that cuts off flow to the hitch and directs it all to the remote connections
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I finally found the link to the person that had a similar problem with a 424 which is same as 444 but 444 has larger engine. This link has some parts diagrams and that canister does contain a filter as greasetomyelbows mentioned. I believe his problem was a bad spring in one of the remote valves that was not returning the spool to the neutral position so the hydraulic oil was divert thru the relief valve in the remote valve back to the reservoir bypassing the input to the 3pt valve body, so when the Operator pulled handle on the remote to the neutral position then the 3pt worked. He had difficulty finding replacement parts as CIH parts are NLA. My 71+ year old memory not as good as it used to be!!!!

Thanks to greasetomy for info.
To start with I would clean or change the filter in the canister.
 
See link below.

https://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/121680-424-lift-arms-not-working-right/

 

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Thank y’all for all the info. I’ve been putting up hay this week so I haven’t had a chance to really work on it but hope to at the end of the week. Does anybody happen to know if the filter in the canister is a screen to clean or if it’s a paper filter (would anyone have the number?). I’m going to check into it and dig into the speed valve since it seems to be broke. 

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I did some more checking on the tractor today while I had a little spare time. The roll pin is gone out of the speed valve. I ran a magnet up in the hole but found nothing. I also robbed that valve from a parts tractor and swapped them. I also removed the access plate under the seat. The oil is moving but not churning like I thought it might. I ran it at pretty high throttle and the oil seemed to move some but nothing like I thought it would with that engine speed. There were no bubbles so I’m not sucking air anywhere. I cracked the line on the canister filter with it running just to see and it ran some oil out but didn’t spew like I figured it would if it’s supposed to run 1500 psi. I’m going to try to get a gauge and check the remote pressure next to verify. I’m assuming either the flow divider is not working right or the pump is weak. The tractor steers easily which makes me think the pump may be fine but it doesn’t have a loader or anything so it actually may not take much pump strength at all to run PS. 

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