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If it’s not one thing it’s another.  Sent out PTO to put correct lower shaft in.  Also had rebuild kit put in.  I should have known better to stop because something didn’t feel right with plunger...was working too freely.  Filled up rear and won’t shut off.

Any ideas before I take this out again?  I took to mechanic with experience but it took forever to get back.

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1 hour ago, jd4440 said:

Check the roll pin in the valve spool. If the pin is broke it will have low apply pressure but will have enough to hold brakes off

Ok will check in morning.  Didn’t have enough time to take off bottom nut/plug.  Got top seal off - it is new but all messed up. 🧐

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Did you put a gauge in it? If so, what is the pressure? If pressure is ok you are going to have to take it apart. Things to check when apart, clutch disc not fully engaged onto spline hub, snap ring under the piston not in place, or excess end play in 1000 shaft. Hope this helps

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16 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

The cap belongs where it is. Shims for adjusting starting pressure go under it. I'm remembering a spacer on top of that seal.

Yeah this seems all goofed up.

They have spring, cap, spacer all under the seal.  Not like parts picture

EB188BB9-3BC5-45C8-B670-9323488612BD.jpeg

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At this point I might as well pull back out and restart & take it somewhere else.

I assembled like shown below (old post I found) and it still will not shut off.

Totally disgusted.  Took pto out because it had a short 706 shaft in it and seal was leaking.  Get it back and it’s all screwed up and won’t shut off.

CD1986A3-D01E-4A2A-8DE2-AAC0562A1C3E.jpeg

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should be a spacer on top of seal. Some had different ends where the rod goes tru, they had square and hex. I don't remember which one was which, but one used a jam nut and one did not

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On 8/29/2020 at 5:43 PM, TeachersPet1066 said:

If it’s not one thing it’s another.  Sent out PTO to put correct lower shaft in.  Also had rebuild kit put in.  I should have known better to stop because something didn’t feel right with plunger...was working too freely.  Filled up rear and won’t shut off.

Any ideas before I take this out again?  I took to mechanic with experience but it took forever to get back.

 

4 hours ago, TeachersPet1066 said:

Wait...When I disassembled they had the cap and then the spring.  Probably why jam nut smashed seal and when down into seal.

5C366B74-282C-4B38-9A7C-07C9DC837DEF.jpeg

E857A120-C799-4C3F-8CB5-1A045C14D4B8.jpeg

The cup is upside down, the open end of the cup faces down.
See cross section illustration.

IPTO With Mechanical Brake_Control Spool Cross Section.jpg

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53 minutes ago, Maynard said:

The cup is upside down, the open end of the cup faces down.

Thanks for the clarification.  After boys ball practice I just now had the chance to take back out.  Guy put extra jam nut on.  Missing washer (36), shim (29), sleeve spacer (30).  Here is updated pic of parts that I took out.

D1FDAC47-3CFB-46B4-9075-98CD8E1CF1E4.jpeg

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8 hours ago, TeachersPet1066 said:

Thanks for the clarification.  After boys ball practice I just now had the chance to take back out.  Guy put extra jam nut on.  Missing washer (36), shim (29), sleeve spacer (30).  Here is updated pic of parts that I took out.

D1FDAC47-3CFB-46B4-9075-98CD8E1CF1E4.jpeg

That era PTO did not use a jam nut, indicated by the short threads on the spool. The adjusting nut had a nylon pellet inside that held the rod in place without a jam nut.
Clean and apply Loctite (or equivilent) blue medium strength thread compound if the pellet has lost grip. or replace the nut. They are still available.
 

IPTO Control Spool Parts Snip_1256.JPG

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Like Maynard said AND do not forget that little washer .  It goes on spool before the open end cap . Without that in proper place you will not feel the heavy partial engagement position .   Have seen so many missing that washer over the years.  Pto still works but no feel for partial engagement.   

Question,  with engine not running do the pto brakes work as they  are spring loaded and pressure releases them at a low pressure of about 20 psi when engaging pto.  

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Maynard is correct about the jam nut. In this area we drill and tap for a 1/4-20 set screw. Just above the groove for rubber boot. As for the missing shim pack. I would say somewhere between 60 and 80 percent of operators don't know of its existance or how to use it. So I suppose you could call it optional. It will take some experimentation with a gauge and on tractor to set up. Would be done on my tractor.

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12 minutes ago, pete23 said:

Question,  with engine not running do the pto brakes work as they  are spring loaded

 

13 minutes ago, pete23 said:

do not forget that little washer .  It goes on spool before the open end cap . Without that in proper place you will not feel the heavy partial engagement position

Well that washer is missing and that is why I do not feel the heavy partial engagement position.  I knew something wasn’t right because it didn’t have that feel like the 544, 1066, etc.

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If he put a new shaft in did he use the correct snap ring for the new shaft or reuse the old lighter snap ring which will allow the piston cup & seals  to float pretty close to the oil grooves in the center section.

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Judging from the picture the teflan rings could be running pretty close to the oil slots already .do you have a picture of the snap ring holding the piston cup to the 1000 rpm shaft? If the 1000b rpm shaft was brand new it takes a snap ring without eyes and is about 2/3 to  again as heavy as the one with eyes also a slight relief is to be cut into the back of the piston so it can still retract just as far some people don't take the time to do that I do that way it will insure that the new linings have enough clearance and won't drag

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