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Ideas from you welder , entrepreneur inventor type


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2 hours ago, MarkG said:

Is that a draw bar from a large frame IH ?

Yes,    It’s the leftover end from making this hammer strap.  
 

Living in row crop country with several junk yards to choose from that stuff is piled up like cord wood around here. 
 

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I just torched a 1" hole in one of my forks, but I'm cheap.

Guy I work with built this years ago. Supper handy. We used it all the time on a 30k lb. forklift until they said we couldn’t have a hole in the fork anymore. Drive up and stick fork in until it hit t

I had this stuff laying around so I welded it up last week .   Going to use it during harvest and then it’s off to get sandblasted and painted.  Probably go with this yellow .     

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3 hours ago, smfarms said:

What does putting a hole in the last 2” of a fork have to do with the safety of a fork? Most forks are rated at 24” from frame. I run one daily and never use only the last 2”. Pick up a pallet and load is spread over whole length. As are most loads 

You make a good point and I agree with you but I think VTfireman made a point as to how OSHA looks at it.

The company we purchased from and who serviced the lifts would check the heal thickness, the back of the fork where it turns up to attach to the mast.  If this became worn down from sliding on the ground and was out of tolerance they were not good according to OSHA.  This makes more sense to me, as far as lifting strength I could see this affecting the capacity if it was really worn.  We had a set that were slightly out of tolerance and since it was a leased fork truck they had to be replaced.  I bought them as scrap and used them to make a set of forks for my Dad's 2000 loader.

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Well, you've seen the good, better and best ways to do it. 

IF I was moving trailers alot, I would probably make one of 'em.

I gave my suggestion early on but here is what I actually do. 

I have the better part of Cherry Co to turn around so have plenty of room, not going very far,  no tight spaces and pretty flat. Take my time and go slow so don't need to worry about jumping off and/or running away.

A ball you could lock down on would be better but this works in my situation. (couldn't find a ball to fit the hole in my fork but this Cat II pin did)

I can use this on my 4 GN trailers, my two bumper pull trailers and even my manure spreader with a hitch pin hitch. 

I'm kinda a tighta$$ and pin was laying around so put it to use. Also stepped on the sq tubing and like to twist my ankle so got mad and welded it to fork frame to get it out of the way. Turned out to be a handy place to store pin. 🤬😆

Since joining this forum, I have found that a lot of the things I do are verbotten in the general population😪. I put them them on here as a do not do this at home PSA. 😄

Down the road if i run across a 2" and 2 5/16" ball that fits the hole in the fork, I will use them. Maybe even make the extension with the rect tubing i talked about😃

 

 

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This is what I made. Ball on top is for goose neck trailers. Be very careful when using this stuff. Things can go wrong. Not cool if something jumps off the hitch and rolls away down hill or worse tries to join you in the cab. 

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9 minutes ago, Cliff Neubauer said:

Sent this one home to a customer today.

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Best one yet!!!!  
 

love it,  I don’t know how it could be better.

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11 hours ago, lorenzo said:

love it,  I don’t know how it could be better.

Receiver tube needs to be down in the bottom crossmember for me.  Can’t pick up a hitch that is laying on the ground otherwise.  

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16 minutes ago, Gearclash said:

Receiver tube needs to be down in the bottom crossmember for me.  Can’t pick up a hitch that is laying on the ground otherwise.  

Good point! 

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1 hour ago, Gearclash said:

Receiver tube needs to be down in the bottom crossmember for me.  Can’t pick up a hitch that is laying on the ground otherwise.  

Do it all the time, just tip it down.  If the receiver is in the bottom and you need to hook up to something with the hitch at normal height you have to raise the loader arms and then you can't open the door on most machines.

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1 hour ago, Cliff Neubauer said:

Do it all the time, just tip it down.  If the receiver is in the bottom and you need to hook up to something with the hitch at normal height you have to raise the loader arms and then you can't open the door on most machines.

Point  taken. I almost never use a cab skid steer to move equipment and equally rarely need to get out to hook or unhook the implement from the skid steer attachment. 

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