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On my 1486 when in roading my baler often on large hills I need to use the ta. When I go back to direct i assume since theres not much load on driveline it will really slam the driveline. It goes into direct right now, which I believe to be a good thing. To ease the strain or shock I back off the throttle a little so when it goes it is a little smoother. I dont hesitate when shifting just back off to half throttle then shift ta. Is there any harm in what I'm doing? My other tractors dont seem to slam into direct quite as hard. This one under a load isnt really the same either, or it doesnt feel as hard of shift anyway but it's just as quick. I just want to make sure I'm not being hard on it. Thanks 

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10 minutes ago, Missouri Mule said:

On my 1486 when in roading my baler often on large hills I need to use the ta. When I go back to direct i assume since theres not much load on driveline it will really slam the driveline. It goes into direct right now, which I believe to be a good thing. To ease the strain or shock I back off the throttle a little so when it goes it is a little smoother. I dont hesitate when shifting just back off to half throttle then shift ta. Is there any harm in what I'm doing? My other tractors dont seem to slam into direct quite as hard. This one under a load isnt really the same either, or it doesnt feel as hard of shift anyway but it's just as quick. I just want to make sure I'm not being hard on it. Thanks 

I very rarely shift the T/A roading I always use the throddle for speeding up of slowing down I assume your using hytran ? Are you shifting it at full throddle? that will make for  a harsher shift  I'd rather see T/A's shift fast than slow or feel like its slipping 

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my 706 does that, it will practically raise the front end if i forget and im running it hard and letting it hit full rpms before i move to direct from T/A when pulling a hill - its seems almost violent

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Depends on the baler and the hiils. There's a lot of iron in those big round and square balers these days.

But IMHO, you are not hurting anything by backing off on the throttle before slamming the TA ahead.

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13 hours ago, Thesd5488 said:

If you gotta ta on the road with just a Baler behind it I think you need some pump injector work done

There are some pretty good hills in this neck of the woods and some you can't get a run at beforehand. His baler has a fair amount of weight to it as well.

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We use the T/A when roading but NEVER for slowing down --- that's what the throttle and brakes are for. We drop the T/A to low when at stop signs and when we get rolling again, at about 1/4 throttle (ish) we engage the T/A to direct and then throttle up. By doing so we usually (unless the load is like a full silage wagon) can remain in high 4th gear and don't have to shift. If having to use the T/A while roading, going from direct to low I wouldn't see a need to reduce throttle for in all likelihood, the engine RPMs have already dropped but once over the load (let's say onto flat road, I would probably decrease throttle, go to direct and then throttle back up as the jerk on dry pavement would be tough.

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22 hours ago, Thesd5488 said:

If you gotta ta on the road with just a Baler behind it I think you need some pump injector work done

Phhffff. Come on out. Hook to this baler and bring your ponies. This 1486 is a healthy one and theres some hills i wouldnt walk up. This baler will put a 1 ton on the overloads pretty quick. My 1086 always pulled it about the same and its turned up. 

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39 minutes ago, Missouri Mule said:

Phhffff. Come on out. Hook to this baler and bring your ponies. This 1486 is a healthy one and theres some hills i wouldnt walk up. This baler will put a 1 ton on the overloads pretty quick. My 1086 always pulled it about the same and its turned up. 

Last 1466 we used made 342 on pto my 806 is at 230 I’ll pull your baler

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8 hours ago, Thesd5488 said:

Last 1466 we used made 342 on pto my 806 is at 230 I’ll pull your baler

kinda hard on the pto isn't it ? 

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1 hour ago, ksfarmdude said:

kinda hard on the pto isn't it ? 

sheesh i would think so!! dang thats a lot of power for those tractors 

 

9 hours ago, Thesd5488 said:

Last 1466 we used made 342 on pto my 806 is at 230 I’ll pull your baler

i need to have you work on my 310 and spice it up a lil - 

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11 hours ago, Thesd5488 said:

Last 1466 we used made 342 on pto my 806 is at 230 I’ll pull your baler

Why don't you do some youtube video's of this "Dyno"????

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Just now, TP from Central PA said:

Why don't you do some youtube video's of this "Dyno"????

I think those numbers he's stating are a little exaggerated

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1 minute ago, ksfarmdude said:

I think those numbers he's stating are a little exaggerated

You think.............You couldn't keep it cool running buried in snow in the artic..............I hear this nonsense every year at the tractor pull here, same two wing nuts who flip tractors always find some old guy who had a M or Super M sitting in a barn that is supposed to have a huge engine under the hood, and cleaned house at every pull in PA in the late 70's and 80's, and he is about dead and they buy it for $100.....................Supposed to have 100+ hp, put it on my brothers M&W dyno which he put a calibrated gauge on from Pete just last year, and it runs a HUGE......................50 hp.  I know when we got the A&W here, calibrated it, and started using it after we got it fixed, I quickly took notice that nearly all tractors were running rated power that they did at Nebraska, color didn't matter, if they were turned up, you got a few % more, but not the 3 billion hp everyone claims by just cranking up the fuel and bolting on a different turbo.  Yes, had some things on it that had some serious money spent under the hood, and that stuff made alot more, but all the machine work, parts, etc will do that and those power levels don't go hand in hand with daily use................

Moral of the story....................Never let the truth get in the way of a good story.

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18 minutes ago, TP from Central PA said:

You think.............You couldn't keep it cool running buried in snow in the artic..............I hear this nonsense every year at the tractor pull here, same two wing nuts who flip tractors always find some old guy who had a M or Super M sitting in a barn that is supposed to have a huge engine under the hood, and cleaned house at every pull in PA in the late 70's and 80's, and he is about dead and they buy it for $100.....................Supposed to have 100+ hp, put it on my brothers M&W dyno which he put a calibrated gauge on from Pete just last year, and it runs a HUGE......................50 hp.  I know when we got the A&W here, calibrated it, and started using it after we got it fixed, I quickly took notice that nearly all tractors were running rated power that they did at Nebraska, color didn't matter, if they were turned up, you got a few % more, but not the 3 billion hp everyone claims by just cranking up the fuel and bolting on a different turbo.  Yes, had some things on it that had some serious money spent under the hood, and that stuff made alot more, but all the machine work, parts, etc will do that and those power levels don't go hand in hand with daily use................

Moral of the story....................Never let the truth get in the way of a good story.

id like to get 90 - 100hp out of my 310 - wonder if thats possible w/out a turbo and stock parts by just pump/timing work ? 

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1 hour ago, searcyfarms said:

id like to get 90 - 100hp out of my 310 - wonder if thats possible w/out a turbo and stock parts by just pump/timing work ? 

Ah just hang a hair dryer on it... it's cool, trust me. Still wont dyno 100hp I'll bet. My fuel isnt turned up much but not sure theres alot to gain on mine 

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5 hours ago, Missouri Mule said:

Ah just hang a hair dryer on it... it's cool, trust me. Still wont dyno 100hp I'll bet. My fuel isnt turned up much but not sure theres alot to gain on mine 

prob no likely would need a txplant, its my small tractor at the moment so i guess 80 is ok 

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On 8/27/2020 at 5:55 AM, Matt Kirsch said:

Depends on the baler and the hiils. There's a lot of iron in those big round and square balers these days.

But IMHO, you are not hurting anything by backing off on the throttle before slamming the TA ahead.

You don't "slam the TA ahead"! You move it smoothly, with a slight reduction in speed as you feel the clutch engaging.

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Never hurt a TA using it that way just go smoothly and swiftly. Been in IHs all my life from letter series to 88 series.TA's are not fragile as farmers let on.Wide open  pull tractor down to nothing plowing,pull ta back ,push forward  keep motoring year after year  no problems. TA's use on the road no different. I live in hill country, twisting roads and hills.You pull loaded wagons  up and down whether grain,silage, hay,you use that TA,heck far better than shifting without one if your so unlucky not have one .There also is no guarantee that just because you have a ta you won't have to shift on a hill anyway so you better be good at it.Like other poster said just don't use low side as a brake,sure way to blow one out.My neighbor did that with his 706,flying down road with loaded silage wagons,pull ta back to use to slow it down.He thought it was cool.Well blew a few out that way,called them junk switched  to JD's.I said good riddance. 

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4 hours ago, R Pope said:

You don't "slam the TA ahead"! You move it smoothly, with a slight reduction in speed as you feel the clutch engaging.

Its not a slip clutch................throw it.................

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53 minutes ago, TP from Central PA said:

Its not a slip clutch................throw it.................

That's the way I've been taught. Dont pussy foot around.

 I fully understand how not to use it as a brake. That wasnt my question. Sounds like no harm in backing off the throttle to ease up on rear end slam a little. And maybe I should shift to direct sooner too would help. Pulled silage wagons all day with 756 and used ta a bunch. What a great feature. Sorry but wouldnt have one without. 

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On 8/27/2020 at 12:25 PM, NCIH1466 said:

We use the T/A when roading but NEVER for slowing down --- that's what the throttle and brakes are for. We drop the T/A to low when at stop signs and when we get rolling again, at about 1/4 throttle (ish) we engage the T/A to direct and then throttle up. By doing so we usually (unless the load is like a full silage wagon) can remain in high 4th gear and don't have to shift. If having to use the T/A while roading, going from direct to low I wouldn't see a need to reduce throttle for in all likelihood, the engine RPMs have already dropped but once over the load (let's say onto flat road, I would probably decrease throttle, go to direct and then throttle back up as the jerk on dry pavement would be tough.

That's my question. Didnt know long term if that hurt anything. Answer is no sounds like. Thanks 

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