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Hello,

I have an IH 886 with a few problems and need some help. Late serial number with the German diesel D-358.

1 - Fuel injector return line is leaking. Should I replace with factory line or "scab" in some pieces?

2 - Draft sensing shaft is leaking bad on LH side. How hard is it to replace the "O" ring or "quad ring" on these things?

3 - Engine oil pan gasket is leaking. Can I just drop the pan and replace the gasket or is more involved? Have a Farmhand 236 loader mount below the pan.

4 - Having troubles finding a cheap operators seat. The suspension is good, just need a seat for it. What will bolt down to the original vertical acting suspension without modification?

5 - All thoughts are welcome! New owner here. ;o)

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Hello, and welcome. You will enjoy your 886 after you address your concerns. #1. You will be pleased if you go to the local dealer and just order the correct parts for your return lines. Usually when when starts to leak, the others will follow. 

#2. I can't really speak for, but I believe you have to pull the third link and unhook draft control linkage, and slide out the torque tube to replace that oring. 

#3. Not a huge deal, drain oil, and remove the loader bracket. Then, drop oil pan, it is made out of cast aluminum, and is fairly heavy, so a jack or friend will be helpful. 

#4. If you want cheap, most universal units will bolt on. I would suggest a quality cloth seats if it has a decent cab. The vinyl ones get warm and uncomfortable when it gets hot. K&M makes quality stuff. 

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The return line is an easy fix, carefully cut the crimps and remove the lines from the injector fittings then just use 400 series return line (1066), I never even used clamps and have had no leaks in years.

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21 hours ago, Torque said:

The return line is an easy fix, carefully cut the crimps and remove the lines from the injector fittings then just use 400 series return line (1066), I never even used clamps and have had no leaks in years.

Torque, can I use basic tubing from the auto parts store or does it need to be "rated" fuel return line?

 

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21 hours ago, MinnesotaFarmall said:

Hello, and welcome. You will enjoy your 886 after you address your concerns. #1. You will be pleased if you go to the local dealer and just order the correct parts for your return lines. Usually when when starts to leak, the others will follow. 

#2. I can't really speak for, but I believe you have to pull the third link and unhook draft control linkage, and slide out the torque tube to replace that oring. 

#3. Not a huge deal, drain oil, and remove the loader bracket. Then, drop oil pan, it is made out of cast aluminum, and is fairly heavy, so a jack or friend will be helpful. 

#4. If you want cheap, most universal units will bolt on. I would suggest a quality cloth seats if it has a decent cab. The vinyl ones get warm and uncomfortable when it gets hot. K&M makes quality stuff. 

#3 - The loader bracket isn't coming off of this tractor (short version of the story). I hope to drop the pan in place above the bracket and replace the gasket. Will try and see.

#2 - Looks like the seals are installed from the inside of the rear frame?

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1 hour ago, messer9696 said:

#3 - The loader bracket isn't coming off of this tractor (short version of the story). I hope to drop the pan in place above the bracket and replace the gasket. Will try and see.

#2 - Looks like the seals are installed from the inside of the rear frame?

Yes, they actually push in to the rear frame, and have a little bore that they sit in. Usually have to dig old hard o rings back out with pick. 

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2 hours ago, messer9696 said:

Torque, can I use basic tubing from the auto parts store or does it need to be "rated" fuel return line?

 

I would use genuine IH return line.

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On the return line: I have done the same as mentioned: cut the crimps off and use new pieces of hose if the one from the dealer is too spendy... but the new ones do fit right and look nice. I'd like to add though, once in desperation to get a unit running in the field I used clear plastic fuel line from the hardware store. it fits really nice on the barbs, easy to work with, and it is still on the same engine and not leaking 10 years later! Also, instead of fumbling with two tiny copper washers on each banjo bolt, get a set from a cummins in a Magnum. they are two washers as one with a copper loop.

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the 3pt hitch o-rings can be replaced without much disassembly just remove the 2 3/8 bolts holding the keeper, remove keeper ,pull off the lh link replace 1 o-ring in the link and one oring in the housing then reassemble about a 20 minute job once cleaned you won't even loose much oil .But don't be surprised if they don't last exceptionally long as the tube and the end link like to wear on that side and the parts are really expensive new like 1/3 the value of the tractor.

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11 hours ago, Farmall Doctor said:

On the return line: I have done the same as mentioned: cut the crimps off and use new pieces of hose if the one from the dealer is too spendy... but the new ones do fit right and look nice. I'd like to add though, once in desperation to get a unit running in the field I used clear plastic fuel line from the hardware store. it fits really nice on the barbs, easy to work with, and it is still on the same engine and not leaking 10 years later! Also, instead of fumbling with two tiny copper washers on each banjo bolt, get a set from a cummins in a Magnum. they are two washers as one with a copper loop.

As in the ones used on the late S/N 1680 combines with Cummins? I didn't realize they were the same size. Thank you.

(Edit) This is the D-358 german diesel not the D-360 IH motor. Does that make a difference?

 

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Just now, messer9696 said:

As in the ones used on the late S/N 1680 combines with Cummins? I didn't realize they were the same size. Thank you.

(Edit) This is the D-358 german diesel not the D-360 IH motor. Does that make a difference?

 

When you mentioned replacing "the line" i assumed it was one piece, and therefore D358. Also, the US engine does not use banjo bolts and fittings on the injectors. Yes, i think all of the cummins including Maxxum series use the same washers. I keep them in stock. Very handy.

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Dont have the book in front of me or my tractor but the load shaft seals I believe on the left side are easy as stated. The right side is a whole different story. I've done 4 of them I should remember which way that bell crank comes out but cant. PTO unit will have to be removed, which means oil drain or nose it down hill. Draft sensing linkage unhooked and then bell crank comes out. Just wanted to clarify that 

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21 hours ago, Missouri Mule said:

Dont have the book in front of me or my tractor but the load shaft seals I believe on the left side are easy as stated. The right side is a whole different story. I've done 4 of them I should remember which way that bell crank comes out but cant. PTO unit will have to be removed, which means oil drain or nose it down hill. Draft sensing linkage unhooked and then bell crank comes out. Just wanted to clarify that 

Missouri Mule,

I think both sides will be pretty straight forward according to the A&I manual. The smaller 86 series seem to have a simpler draft control set up compared to the big 86's. Cross my fingers.

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Also, one of the injector lines is leaking where it attaches to the pump. Won't tighten up anymore and parts book doesn't show any seals there. Do I need to replace the line or the fitting between the line and the pump?

I sure do appreciate all your guys help and info on this stuff! Thank you!

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1 hour ago, messer9696 said:

Missouri Mule,

I think both sides will be pretty straight forward according to the A&I manual. The smaller 86 series seem to have a simpler draft control set up compared to the big 86's. Cross my fingers.

Huh. Might of learned something. My 56, 66, and 86 series all are same. 

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1 hour ago, messer9696 said:

Also, one of the injector lines is leaking where it attaches to the pump. Won't tighten up anymore and parts book doesn't show any seals there. Do I need to replace the line or the fitting between the line and the pump?

I sure do appreciate all your guys help and info on this stuff! Thank you!

Usually the line will crack right behind the collet on the line. Does it just dribble or spray? If just dribble, remove and run some emmory cloth on the end, clean out with solvent and compressed air. Reinstall, and loosen, then reinstall. Usually it will need to reseat itself. 

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1 hour ago, messer9696 said:

Missouri Mule,

I think both sides will be pretty straight forward according to the A&I manual. The smaller 86 series seem to have a simpler draft control set up compared to the big 86's. Cross my fingers.

Does yours resemble this? Cuz messicks says it does. If so its same 

Screenshot_20200811-205536_Samsung Internet.jpg

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On 8/11/2020 at 7:58 PM, Missouri Mule said:

Does yours resemble this? Cuz messicks says it does. If so its same 

Screenshot_20200811-205536_Samsung Internet.jpg

Yes, that looks like the small series 86. The 1086 is different. The bell crank isn't part of the shaft on the RH side. Other than draining the fluid I hope it goes pretty simple.

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Fuel return line is done. I used some 3.5mm cloth braided line from e-bay. Worked great. No clamps or crimps on factory line so it was a real easy project. Also got the cab kit in and welded up the door stops so it won't flop all the way open now. Next project is the draft sensing shaft seals. Wish me luck and thanks for all your help guys!

 

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On 8/11/2020 at 7:50 PM, MinnesotaFarmall said:

Usually the line will crack right behind the collet on the line. Does it just dribble or spray? If just dribble, remove and run some emmory cloth on the end, clean out with solvent and compressed air. Reinstall, and loosen, then reinstall. Usually it will need to reseat itself. 

I will give this a try. Just a drop every 4-5 seconds. Thank you.

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