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Farmall 706 Clutch/TA Weirdness


Qdot2009
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I've put about 30 hours on the '67 706D since I bought in March and I love it!  That 310 is a fast starting, sweet sounding fuel sipper.  I haven't had an issue with it at all, but I do think I need to make some adjustments to the Clutch & TA.  The shift linkage is tighter than any '06 tractor I've driven in the past and the parking brake inspires confidence.  However, I've noticed that if I leave the tractor is gear, even 1rst (L1), it will roll on an incline.  I park it on a flat surface with parking brake on, and bush hog lowered so it's not an issue.  However, I know it shouldn't do that.  ****, we used to park our 806s on a hill so we could get them to start as the batteries/starters were dead all the time.  Additionally, the clutch seems to engage twice - meaning it engages some, but then a little more as you fully release the pedal.  Lastly, as the tractor warms up, I get the oil light on when the clutch is depressed which I know is the dump valve.  Are all these issues adjustment related or are there other things going on? 

I've got the manual and procedure for the adjustment, just haven't haven't been able to get someone else's schedule to align with mine yet to get it done, as it's a 2 person job. 

Pic for attention.  Thanks for the help!

IMG_7150.jpg

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Yes he is saying with engine not running there is no hyd pressure to keep the direct clutch engaged nor the hyd hold back clutch engaged therfore it should freewheel engine off, in gear. At least that is how i always understood it. Not sure how you would coast start an 806 unless it was a ta delete model? 

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6 minutes ago, iowaboy1965 said:

Yes he is saying with engine not running there is no hyd pressure to keep the direct clutch engaged nor the hyd hold back clutch engaged therefore it should freewheel engine off, in gear. At least that is how i always understood it. Not sure how you would coast start an 806 unless it was a ta delete model? 

OK - that makes sense.  This is the first TA model I've had.  The 806s and 1466 I have are all TA delete models.

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all i can say is this, if you are not on level ground and the engine dies, hold on, a neighbors grandson was driving theirs pulling a grain wagon, didnt pull the hill, their grandson was not schooled on the hydraulic necessities of an 06 so he went backwards down the hill with the wagon, turned it all over but luckily was throw free from the wreckage - he was injured but not life threatening -  i woudnt think it wouldnt matter what gear or what position the TA is in, if its not running its going to roll on any incline. I was told that the first farmer i worked for with his 706, he said if the motor dies you have no steering, no brakes - dont let the engine die - clutch it before you get into trouble. It stuck, i didnt want to be upside down and dead. 

I guess a fella could use a proper length 2x4 for a second leg to keep the pedal down to adjust linkage. 

 

 

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This is a good reference to set up the clutch, TA and trans brake on all of the "06 through '86 series tractors. I have found that these settings are the best to provide the best performance from these great tractors... don't let anyone tell you that you can't shift them!!

First thing I do is disregard everything that's written in the service manuals... Not that they're wrong, but when they are set up right they shift up and down through the gears if you "think before you shift" hehe.

Check that when the TA is forward in Direct Drive position that the snap ring on the spool valve is bottomed against the housing- this is very important! Adjust accordingly in the linkage or the cable at the firewall.

First thing to do is set up the clutch with extra free play. This is usually to your own liking, but I set them up so that the tractor starts to move when the heel of your boot is still on the floor. This makes it easier to feather the clutch for hitching equipment or moving a few feet in the lineup at the elevator. Don't make any adjustments on the booster, only on the turnbuckle going down to the clutch release shaft (which requires a 9/16" wrench to loosen the locking block and a large flat screwdriver to turn the adjusting screw on the '86 series and two 15/16" wrenches on the older models without a booster, or two 3/4" wrenches with a booster). Once you have this adjustment where it is comfortable, make sure that the lube oil tellite is working on the dash. It should come on when the clutch is pushed all the way down. Adjust the linkage so that when in High Range, 3rd gear the light should go out just before the tractor starts to move as you slowly let the clutch out. Now adjust the transmission brake. Run the tractor at idle speed with the speed transmission in 3rd gear. Push the clutch to the floor and count 1-2-3- and try to slowly shift into High Range. It should go in nicely with only a "clunk" from the gears. Try to adjust this accordingly. Too tight or too loose will make for hard shifting. Remember to break loose the jamb nut before removing the locking pin... they sometimes get a bit tight.

I have been setting them up this way for quite some time now... (and be sure to make all adjustments in this order) and it has worked quite well. Be sure to lube all of the shift linkages from the levers to the top of the transmission from time to time, and you will have a super nice useable tractor.

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22 hours ago, Qdot2009 said:

I've put about 30 hours on the '67 706D since I bought in March and I love it!  That 310 is a fast starting, sweet sounding fuel sipper.  I haven't had an issue with it at all, but I do think I need to make some adjustments to the Clutch & TA.  The shift linkage is tighter than any '06 tractor I've driven in the past and the parking brake inspires confidence.  However, I've noticed that if I leave the tractor is gear, even 1rst (L1), it will roll on an incline.  I park it on a flat surface with parking brake on, and bush hog lowered so it's not an issue.  However, I know it shouldn't do that.  ****, we used to park our 806s on a hill so we could get them to start as the batteries/starters were dead all the time.  Additionally, the clutch seems to engage twice - meaning it engages some, but then a little more as you fully release the pedal.  Lastly, as the tractor warms up, I get the oil light on when the clutch is depressed which I know is the dump valve.  Are all these issues adjustment related or are there other things going on? 

I've got the manual and procedure for the adjustment, just haven't haven't been able to get someone else's schedule to align with mine yet to get it done, as it's a 2 person job. 

Pic for attention.  Thanks for the help!

IMG_7150.jpg

To adjust the dump valve without a working lube light or a lube pressure gauge installed, do this.
Drive forward up an incline.
Without using the brakes, push the clutch pedal all the way down.
The tractor will roll backwards when the dump valve is opened.
Raise the clutch pedal slowly while rolling backwards until the tractor stops rolling.
This is the position where the dump valve has closed, this should happen before the main clutch starts to engage.
Adjust the dump valve accordingly.  

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1 hour ago, Maynard said:

To adjust the dump valve without a working lube light or a lube pressure gauge installed, do this.
Drive forward up an incline.
Without using the brakes, push the clutch pedal all the way down.
The tractor will roll backwards when the dump valve is opened.
Raise the clutch pedal slowly while rolling backwards until the tractor stops rolling.
This is the position where the dump valve has closed, this should happen before the main clutch starts to engage.
Adjust the dump valve accordingly.  

This is the way I do it regardless if the light works or not. It just verifys that it is working correctly and you have it right.

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