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New to me TD15 stuck steering clutch

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I picked up this Td15 crawler from my relatives estate, 3100 original hours, 150 series 2428 sn.

 I’ve got it running and driving but only turning left. I can’t for the life of me get the right turn clutch free. I’ve read some guys say to fill the clutch case with kerosene and leave sit for a few hours then drain. I’m hesitant to do that but I really don’t want to pull it apart as it looks like quite a job. The boosters do work and it is releasing it from what I can see through the windows. Today I hooked it to my ripper that I set in the ground with the 4wd and I pulled the **** out of it and it never let loose. How do I check the adjustment in them just to be sure they’re releasing enough. 
 

Im also confused as to what one of the hyd pumps is for on right side of the motor, one obviously is for the boosters but the second runs to a filter housing under the floor board and runs into the center of the trans case under the seat. What would that do? I had someone suggest it’s lube oil for the transmission. Doesn’t the trans run 80/90 or 85/140 oil? 
 

Ive also got a coolant leak where the heads meet in the middle on the pump side.  It stops when warmed up, just more annoying than anything.  Otherwise it’s a good runner and sounds really good. 

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One pump for the towed equipment and the other for steering booster?

The books would hopefully tell you.

Also tell how to adjust the steering clutch,and brake. You where pulling ripper with the steering clutch back all the time? I have been told use some brake to build heat in the clutch pack. The few I have delta with I always had to take them apart. But I never have been in a TD 15 of any vintage. I was told by a former 15 owner some models you needed to break the track to put new brake bands in. As he put it, it went down the road before the second set of brakes where needed. Most are not like that. Just pull fuel tank and cover plates and your there.

The last Cat D6 I worked steer clutches in I did the stuck one and put fuel tank and misc back on ran it a day. At which time the other clutch needed adjustment,which needed taking a part. So I should of just done the second one the first time. As it had more stuck together plates than loss ones,but not that big a deal.

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The implement pump is on the front of the engine. The second one behind the booster pump goes under the floorboards to a filter housing then into the trans case. The suction side of the pump pulls from the middle of the trans under the seat. 
 

Yeah pulled the ripper with the lever back and holding the right brake as long as I could till it almost killed it. 
 

I’ve got a couple other crawlers but have never had to dig into one of the clutches. It looks like a terrible job from what I can see. Break track, and pull the final, doesn’t look fun. I’m thinking of trying the kerosene first. 

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I can’t remember seeing any pressurized lube system before on those, but there it is, not sure of the benefits, didn’t seem to be a failure point of splash?

The track doesn’t have to come off or be split, you will have to pull the fuel tank and then the deck plate comes off to access, some guys with then cut the plate into 3 sections to keep the wet side covered while you work on the clutches, you will need something to lift them out

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The clutch comes out the top?? That’s better than what I thought but still A plenty big job. 
 

Where would I find new friction plates? Figure if I’m pulling it I’m gonna replace them. 

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Yup once the deck plate is off it’s all accessible from the top and a little underneath for the brake banks and linkages and the clutch fork bolt, easier access than the little ones but of course they weigh more...new steels and frictions are available from general gear or I think the name now is steeringclutch.com, John Parks in Idaho, you may need some other parts once you get in there, spline shaft etc but won’t know until it’s apart, he may have those used, your steels maybe good to reuse, have to see if they are pitted from corrosion, you can choose regular friction material or bimetallic which are more $$$ but less likely to seize up in the future, the bolt spacing on the drum to coupler is not symmetrical so you want to make sure the pattern matches each side on reassembly.

There probably is some good topics of this from the past describing the job with the pitfalls to avoid, i’ll see if I can find and link

The coolant leak hopefully can be solved by retorquing the heads, coolant seal concoctions or pulling heads, I would try to avoid latter as head gaskets are likely hens teeth and the fire rings are tricky to get properly installed after.

Old frictions would probably contain asbestos?

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Hope the link works for general gear

http://www.tpaktopc.net/td1820strcltch.htm

These are for TD 18 and 20, they are all the same parts you just need less steels and frictions for TD14 and 15 if I remember 

There was some special plates (3), basically a piece of flat stock with holes drilled in specific places but I don’t think you actually needed them with these

There are some videos on YouTube for sc replacement mostly TD6 or 9, same process just way more cramped, you may need to roll the machine back and forth to rotate the bolt holes for ease of access as your doing this

You could search king of obsolete website he has probably worked on everything on these era machines, I think he had tips for using grease gun hoses to replace the old lube lines to the spline shaft as a cheap replacement and how to pay attention to orientation of them, sorry been awhile since I’ve been in there

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This video kind of shows the removal, you can see the metal tabs he made to keep the clutch drum compressed for removal

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Thank you, I appreciate the post, that video helps make sense of how that comes apart now. 

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I was just looking through TD 20 200 series literature and one of the updates was a pressurized lube system for transmission so looks like your 150 series received this also, how are you coming along with this.

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