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oldtanker

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Not as big or as fancy as most of you with big farm shops but big enough for me to get several things in to work on the. Going with 24X54X10. Insulated with a concrete floor! Can't wait to actually get started!

Rick

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2 minutes ago, oldtanker said:

Not as big or as fancy as most of you with big farm shops but big enough for me to get several things in to work on the. Going with 24X54X10. Insulated with a concrete floor! Can't wait to actually get started!

Rick

Congrats on your new build.  Just a thought, when I built my first garage/shop I also built 24 wide and forever wished I had spent the few extra dollars and went 30 wide.  For me, the extra six feet in the beginning would have saved the lean to shed(s).

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15 minutes ago, RichardDSalyer said:

Congrats on your new build.  Just a thought, when I built my first garage/shop I also built 24 wide and forever wished I had spent the few extra dollars and went 30 wide.  For me, the extra six feet in the beginning would have saved the lean to shed(s).

I'm not looking for storage. Just someplace to work on my growing project list. I plan on a lean to if needed down the road.

Rick

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built a 40x40 which i thought was big enough....wrong, by the time you put the needed tools and stuff in they start to grow out from the walls by about 4 feet but it is awesome to have a nice heated shop to work in during winter.

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10 feet isn’t very tall. I would suggest going to 12 feet if at all possible, even if it means giving up some building length to keep in budget. I spent plenty of time in a 25 x 30 x 11 shop, lack of headroom became an issue quickly. Also, lack of headroom limits your door height pretty badly if you want an overhead door.  

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Congratulations!  I am envious.  I would also side with Gearclash on the height regarding doors.

Remember, nature abhors a vacuum.  It is amazing how quickly new buildings fill up.

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I have shop envy already OT😪     

No, seriously very happy for you, the one thing I have yet to have is a nice shop. 

With your talents I'm sure you will put it to good use.😃

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Please re-think your 10 foot height!!!!!  I have been strapped with a 10 foot overhead door for nearly 30 years.  Once the roof is on there is no way to change the door height without lots of $$$$.

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Rick.   Think about the height like others have said.    10’ ceiling usually equals 8’ door.    You talked about a 560 or the like,  you will have to pull muffler and push in or lean over hard.    I have that issue with my shed.   

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I don't know how you are laying out the building, but if you're going to have doors on 54' side, you may want to consider going wider-deeper.  24' isn't very deep if you want to pull in a full sized truck and pop the hood. As others stated, you may also want to consider a taller building. Congrats and good luck. 

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Respectfully I’m sure he has thought about his needs, that said I wish I would have built 50% bigger but in time I would have filled it too, now I would like 50x100

I think for aesthetics your width should be 2/3 the length and appropriate height for the size

Congrats I take it you found a supplier and builder 

Also consider your door location based on climate, I wouldn’t put any doors on a sidewall if you have a metal roof in a snow zone 

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Sounds like a good plan. Mine is 30x50 with 12’ sides. I wish it was taller so I could put in a lift but I bought it used and paid to have it taken down and moved so I couldn’t change dimensions. I’m sure you will like it no matter what you decide on for sure. 
 

(My building was 3-4 years old and the owner was a buddy who got a job and had to move elsewhere so I knew what it was)

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No matter how big you build it, it will never be big enough. 

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Would definitely go higher than 10ft.......................My old man cheaped out with height.............He was never the one steering something with vice grips leaning back to clear the door, and he should have been so he got hit in the head a few times to realize how stupid that was.  Heck, now even the open station tractors on big rear rubber won't even fit, it is nothing but a tool storage area.

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Not difficult to make one bay 12 and the rest 10.

High ceiling, higher heat bill.

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5 minutes ago, MTO said:

Not difficult to make one bay 12 and the rest 10.

High ceiling, higher heat bill.

Excellent idea! 1 taller bay really doesn't affect the budget like doing the whole shop but will be handy as a shirt pocket.

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I will give another perspective for going taller,  if you want to put a lean to off a side, with much pitch on he roof you end up short fast.  
 

but we all make choices for reasons.  Enjoy the shop. Heated floor? Adding A/C?

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OK, here is what I'm looking at. https://midwest.menards.com/postframe-web/redirect.do#/summary/2/1/56588/3183  I have a budget of about 35,000.  So about 13,500 for materials. I have bids on the floor at about 5K. So I'm at 18,500 or so. Call it 20,000 with a heater. I don't have an estimate for putting the building up yet nor for electric. I may wind up doing the electric myself. Gotta check the laws first. Hope to have at least one or 2 bids in the next few days. If I can add in another 2 feet I will. I'd like to have a little extra money left over but it's not a deal killer if I spend it all. Extras like benches will be out of pocket, not out of the budget. I'll be repairing another small outbuilding in the spring. That will have storage in it.

 

Rick

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4 minutes ago, AKwelder said:

I will give another perspective for going taller,  if you want to put a lean to off a side, with much pitch on he roof you end up short fast.  
 

but we all make choices for reasons.  Enjoy the shop. Heated floor? Adding A/C?

No floor heat. While very nice it is just too expensive. I don't know about AC.That may become a latter add on. Seems like a lot of extra money for 2 months a year.

Rick

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In 16 I put floor heat in my new 40 x 48 and it cost 3400$ .  Didn't even price or consider anything else but thought it was as cheap as a furnace, could be wrong though since I didn't price anything else. But my house furnace cost about 3000$ in 05.

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28 minutes ago, oldtanker said:

OK, here is what I'm looking at. https://midwest.menards.com/postframe-web/redirect.do#/summary/2/1/56588/3183  I have a budget of about 35,000.  So about 13,500 for materials. I have bids on the floor at about 5K. So I'm at 18,500 or so. Call it 20,000 with a heater. I don't have an estimate for putting the building up yet nor for electric. I may wind up doing the electric myself. Gotta check the laws first. Hope to have at least one or 2 bids in the next few days. If I can add in another 2 feet I will. I'd like to have a little extra money left over but it's not a deal killer if I spend it all. Extras like benches will be out of pocket, not out of the budget. I'll be repairing another small outbuilding in the spring. That will have storage in it.

 

Rick

From what I remember of codes you as a home owner have the right to pull a permit and do your own work subject to their inspections (and fees for re-inspections). They may not make it very easy for you but I think they can not stop you, at least for your home, they may have farm/business clauses they try to apply to you

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26 minutes ago, oldtanker said:

No floor heat. While very nice it is just too expensive. I don't know about AC.That may become a latter add on. Seems like a lot of extra money for 2 months a year.

Rick

Concur with both thoughts.  One thing I would do though maybe is consider putting foam insulation under the concrete floor.  Should save some heating $$ that way.  AC is very nice but it can be added later.  

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29 minutes ago, oldtanker said:

No floor heat. While very nice it is just too expensive. I don't know about AC.That may become a latter add on. Seems like a lot of extra money for 2 months a year.

Rick

If your paying to have it done I agree, doing it your self?  Not sure your right

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3 minutes ago, AKwelder said:

If your paying to have it done I agree, doing it your self?  Not sure your right

I got a quote of $11000 installed. When I went to buy my pex, insulation, pump, clamps, and misc except for my boiler [ 75 gal water htr ] I asked if they had heard of the $11000 guy. Didn't tell them I got a bid from him. The reply was yes, they supply him with a lot of materials. I put mine in myself. Took my nephew and me about 2 hrs to put down insulation and clamp pex to wire mesh. Was a very simple job only 1 zone. Nephew is my concrete man and this was a 1st time of doing in floor heating for him. I put it in my farrowing barn in 91. Every thing that went under the concrete came home in an 8 ft pickup bed accept the wire mesh, $530 some dollars. 1300$ for water heater, $900 for a half sheet of plywood with pump, valves, gauges, expansion tank, manifolds, themostat & some cord all assembled by place I bought it from. Attach board to wall, hook pipes from floor to manifold, hook water htr to red & blue pex on board, fill with RV antifreeze, plug in, set themostat on 65 . Runs me around $1000 per winter for LP.

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Mine is 30x44 with 9 ft ceiling,steel lined with 2x6 walls. I do have to remove some mufflers to get in the door but usually they have to come off anyway. I found a used 90% furnace with central air,with the temps here lately it has been worth it. Always wish it was larger.

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