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Well this stinks. Broken axle clamp bolts or whatever you call them.

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2 of the bolts snapped off on the axle clamp or whatever it is called.  Guess I am going to Wengers to get a used set rather then paying someone to try to get those bolts out.  I was baling some idiot cubes when it happened.  Stopped the tractor dead in it's tracks.

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Had that happen to my 756 once.  Ruined the wheel!

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You might be surprised Ive had a couple break and was able to channel lock out the bolt end...

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The one is snapped off way down in.  The other one snapped off at the head.  I got the outside one off completely.  Need to get the inside one off yet.  I hope I can salvage the inside one like you said mader.  The threads are pretty crusty.  It doesn't look promising.  Not trying to be cheap but $70 a piece without the bolts seems a bit much.

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I used cat bolt and issues stopped.

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Have you got a welder? Burry a stick Of 6013 down in the hole and burn it off in there, continue as needed to get flush, then you can weld a nut on, The heat will expand the bold and then when it contracts it has crushed some of the rust. The flux will insulate the thread and you should be able to back the bolt out. 

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The last time I broke one, I replaced all the bolts with grade 8  7/8 fine thread bolts from Alma Bolt was about $ 25 for four bolts, SAE  washers, and lock washers. cab

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My 766 had the clamp type wheels (34").  I broke several bolts on the left wheel but never broke more than one bolt at a time.  Always on the outside, always the left wheel.  I don't remember having any trouble getting the broken bolts out, but don't remember exactly how I did it either.  I think they must have broken off outside the threaded part of the clamp.

That wheel eventually developed a crack in it, and I replaced it with a 34" wedge lock and never had any more trouble.

I probably asked for it, though, running around 130 hp and weighing about 14,000 with rim-mount DMI lock-rail duals.  Although I believe the wheel and clamp were the same as a 1206 had.  Funny that the right wheel never caused any trouble.  I always suspected the left wheel might have had a casting defect.

I don't have the seven any more, but as far as I know it still has one clamp wheel and one wedge lock.  It resides near Waverly Nebraska now.

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1 hour ago, 615 spike said:

The last time I broke one, I replaced all the bolts with grade 8  7/8 fine thread bolts from Alma Bolt was about $ 25 for four bolts, SAE  washers, and lock washers. cab

You would be better off to use a hardened flat washer and no lock washer with the grade 8 bolt.  The lock washer can open up and leave the bolt loose.  A properly torqued grade 8 bolt will stay tight.

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 Over a couple days my 826 broke several a year or 2 ago. Think i got new bolts from ih and dont recall them being awful for price. I got mine out ok. Think i welded a nut to one and other i got out with pliers.

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8 hours ago, mader656 said:

You might be surprised Ive had a couple break and was able to channel lock out the bolt end...

Same here, twice was able to do that.

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Didn't they originally have studs and nuts?  We only ever had one tractor with them, not much on it was original. It had studs and when they broke that's what I replaced them with. From dealer, but, dealer might have been selling me aftermarket parts too.   I like this pic those guys....for that other thread with the custom wedge lock adaption 

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Was looking, at least it not Like a 560 with that special key that S about $115 , easy adjustment ,in and out ha

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We used to have a problem on the 656 hydro loader tractor hubs. I never had to give up on a clamp- the broken bolt came out either  easy with vise grips or by welding a 3/8" bolt offset into the broken piece for something to turn. I keep a supply of grade 8 bolts on hand, but haven't need any since the help left.

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10 hours ago, vtfireman85 said:

Have you got a welder? Burry a stick Of 6013 down in the hole and burn it off in there, continue as needed to get flush, then you can weld a nut on, The heat will expand the bold and then when it contracts it has crushed some of the rust. The flux will insulate the thread and you should be able to back the bolt out. 

I have a Lincoln tombstone I bought new in the late 90s.  Trouble is I don't have electric set up to use it.  The previous owners of this place were definitely not electricians and I haven't got around to renting a trencher or backhoe and making it right.  Guess I have too many projects.

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2 hours ago, stronger800 said:

Didn't they originally have studs and nuts?  We only ever had one tractor with them, not much on it was original. It had studs and when they broke that's what I replaced them with. From dealer, but, dealer might have been selling me aftermarket parts too.   I like this pic those guys....for that other thread with the custom wedge lock adaption 

I think your right and believe thats what i was sold but would have to look.

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I'd bet if you took it to any shop they could probably withdrawl that bolt easy enough. And if not $70 would be a bargain. Hopefully you can find a couple cheaper somewhere 

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13 hours ago, stronger800 said:

Didn't they originally have studs and nuts?  We only ever had one tractor with them, not much on it was original. It had studs and when they broke that's what I replaced them with. From dealer, but, dealer might have been selling me aftermarket parts too.   I like this pic those guys....for that other thread with the custom wedge lock adaption 

I'm told that some of the larger tractors used studs.  I skipped Wengers and got what I needed from local repair shop.  Ty had some stud kits in CIH packaging that we looked at using but I ended up buying regular bolts from somewhere else.

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I don't have it back together but I have the parts now.  I am going to reuse the one hub clamp.  The other one is very worn where it would sit in the axle groove.  A couple observations after getting it apart.  The one bolt was all rusty where it was broke and must have snapped off a long time ago causing some movement between parts.  There is a little bit of wear where the cast hub goes against the cast wheel center and the one hub clamp is all worn down.  Apparently it was moving for a bit.  I was able to get the bolts to screw right out of the hub I am reusing.  There was some threaded meat sticking out of the back side of the hub clamp.

I'm going to put it back together tomorrow or Thursday.  I don't have anything to loose.  Hopefully the wear on the wheel center isn't to much that it happens again any time soon.

 

 

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22 hours ago, 615 spike said:

The last time I broke one, I replaced all the bolts with grade 8  7/8 fine thread bolts from Alma Bolt was about $ 25 for four bolts, SAE  washers, and lock washers. cab

Haha that's where I got mine from too! (If it's the same Alma bolt) But I'm guessing it is lol

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My brother has a pair of wheel centers from his 656 as he put 9 bolt hubs and 23.1-26 BF Goodrich on it for some flotation

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17 minutes ago, bitty said:

My brother has a pair of wheel centers from his 656 as he put 9 bolt hubs and 23.1-26 BF Goodrich on it for some flotation

Thank you for bringing this up. I am going to see if I can get and keep things tight but if not I'll check back with you to see if he is willing to part with them.

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Got it back together.  It seems ok but I am going to leave the weights off for a bit to make sure it stays tight.  You just can't get in there with the weights on.  I'm out $70 for the used hun wedge and about $45 for 4 new bolts.  Those grade 8 fine threads are spendy.  Hoping it will stay tight and not grenade.  

Here is the tractor.  Not correct or the prettiest thing but we own it.😁

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Did you use at least a three foot pipe to tighten them down?

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2 hours ago, VacDaddyt said:

Did you use at least a three foot pipe to tighten them down?

Snug with a regular socket set and then hammered them down with a DeWalt cordless impact. I'm thinking it puts out 700ft lbs?   Think that is enough?

The cordless impact is very handy.  I bought it last fall when I was changing a truck bed on a one ton cab and chasis.

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