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Super H Tune-up Question


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Hi folks, I just bought a running 1953 Super H for a great deal.  It runs pretty smooth and one of the first things I would like to do is to do a little tune-up.  Change oil, plugs, wires, radiator flush etc.  We have an old M, Super C and B on the farm but I have never really tinkered with these old classics.  I am just curious for recommendations from guys on what oil you use, spark plugs, plug wires and such.  I'll get her painted and such this winter but in the meantime will use for some light mowing and raking.  Appreciate any input from the experts!  Thanks!

Super H.jpg

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Thought I'd help you out with what I know. It's not a ton. I'd avoid champion plugs like the covid lol. Plug wires, I'd stick with copper core wires. Some of the old ignition coils don't have enough to push the voltage through the new carbon core wires. As for ignition, a good simple cleaning of the points will do. I've always used a piece of paper and electrical contact cleaner. If they are burnt and pitted, they wouldn't hurt to be filed, but if it runs good now, I wouldn't want to monkey around too much. Change fuel filter or clean sediment bowl and screen. As for oil, I'm out of my league on them, I'd assume just straight thirty weight oil?? Rear end, some say 80-90w and others say hytran. 

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I just did a tune up on my  super M last spring  I use 15-40 engine oil Champion plugs are the best I'd replace the cap and rotor and points the parts aren't that expensive plug wires to if they are old and have cracks also if your real energetic check valve clearance takes more work but it will run and start better good luck

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I'm of the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" camp, especially in this day and age of quality issues with the replacement parts.

Unless you have a concern about the way the tractor runs, I say skip the "tune-up." Changing plugs, wires, cap, rotor, condenser, and points for the sake of changing them, you are often changing from better to worse. All these components are made on the same production line overseas no matter who you buy from these days, and all have the same issues. It's not uncommon for the condensers to be bad out of the box. It's not uncommon for the little phenolic block on the points to break off, or the spring to snap in two. Oh, some will say to get them from NAPA or the dealer, they're better, but they're not, unless you come across some old stock.

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1 hour ago, Matt Kirsch said:

I'm of the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" camp, especially in this day and age of quality issues with the replacement parts.

Unless you have a concern about the way the tractor runs, I say skip the "tune-up." Changing plugs, wires, cap, rotor, condenser, and points for the sake of changing them, you are often changing from better to worse. All these components are made on the same production line overseas no matter who you buy from these days, and all have the same issues. It's not uncommon for the condensers to be bad out of the box. It's not uncommon for the little phenolic block on the points to break off, or the spring to snap in two. Oh, some will say to get them from NAPA or the dealer, they're better, but they're not, unless you come across some old stock.

Wow really? I've always felt like a good tune up is well worth it My tractor always had a miss and occasional backfire slowing down found that the old cap had a crack I tuned it up new plugs cap rotor points its never run so good its been at least 20 years since I did it last figured it was time

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44 minutes ago, ksfarmdude said:

Wow really? I've always felt like a good tune up is well worth it My tractor always had a miss and occasional backfire slowing down found that the old cap had a crack I tuned it up new plugs cap rotor points its never run so good its been at least 20 years since I did it last figured it was time

Look at what I wrote: "Unless you have a concern about the way the tractor runs."

You had a concern about the way the tractor ran.

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5 minutes ago, Matt Kirsch said:

Look at what I wrote: "Unless you have a concern about the way the tractor runs."

You had a concern about the way the tractor ran.

true but after 20 some years I would have done it anyway just on the account of better starting  and power lots of other benefits also everyone has their own idea when its time for new ignition parts there's no set guide line 

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Autolite 3116 spark plugs. They are a non-resistor plug and don't just "up and die" for no reason like all the rest. 30W Low Ash engine oil. The best caps are from Standard motor products. They are nice and shiny smooth, and have good sized copper terminals. You might find one locally with the same characteristics. Solid core wires. Buy good mid-grade gas without ethanol. Also, I would like to add, that tractor is way too nice to repaint!! :)

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Looks good LFD ! I also agree it looks too good in it's work clothes tp paint. I've been using Case IH 15w40 diesel oil in my Super H's with no problems. I'll be the odd man out as I've had good luck with Champion D15Y plugs, but I'm still using from the stock pile I bought 15 years ago, can't speak for the quality of the new ones.

Pat in Wis

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x2 on the poor quality ignition parts.  If it starts and runs good, leave it alone and run it.

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37 minutes ago, Tickertoy said:

x2 on the poor quality ignition parts.  If it starts and runs good, leave it alone and run it.

Or if you change points and condenser keep the originals because you might have to put them back in.

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Staying on the subject, I would like to do a little tune-up

Appreciate any input from the experts, any experts I knew had a lot of experience and that's me. 😎

Change the oil in the oil bath air cleaner 10w20 and if you can take the top hood off and clean out the 3/8 tubing coming from the head to the breather, than you will know that system is clear.😊

Looking at the picture I'm not seeing a lot of of super? with the 21 factory improvements.

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15 hours ago, superman said:

Staying on the subject, I would like to do a little tune-up

Appreciate any input from the experts, any experts I knew had a lot of experience and that's me. 😎

Change the oil in the oil bath air cleaner 10w20 and if you can take the top hood off and clean out the 3/8 tubing coming from the head to the breather, than you will know that system is clear.😊

Looking at the picture I'm not seeing a lot of of super? with the 21 factory improvements.

I'm seeing 3 super features in the pic, disk brakes, sealed beam headlights and the Super sized carb.

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On 7/20/2020 at 7:49 AM, ksfarmdude said:

true but after 20 some years I would have done it anyway just on the account of better starting  and power lots of other benefits also everyone has their own idea when its time for new ignition parts there's no set guide line 

the important thing is to keep the points and plugs gapped . a plug can go for a very long time with a cleaning and filing of the electrode flat and regap. very important to periodically adjust the valves as over time they will get tight and burn if not set. same with points remove and file flat and regap and as good as new.

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