Jump to content

Recommended Posts

900 hours ago I overhauled my 1066. Probably  was done 4 or 5 years ago. This past 6 months or so I have trouble keeping the bolts on the exhaust manifold on the number one cylinder tight. The rest of the bolts stay tight. I am wondering what's causing this, and how to keep them tight. Should I put studs in? I assume this is possible. Any thoughts or suggestions  would be great. Thanks!

Link to post
Share on other sites

First thing I’d do is take the manifold off and get it surfaced, to make sure that the sealing surface is true to the cylinder head.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, INTERNATIONAL 1466 said:

You won't get the studs anymore if you go to IH, they will be bolts. At least that's what I was given last time I went to get the studs.

I wasn't.  You must have one of those crappy parts guys.  

Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, J-Mech said:

I wasn't.  You must have one of those crappy parts guys.  

Boy, I wouldn't say that to him. He is really good, and I like him. You know, you are a smart guy and probably a good mechanic, but you sure can let your mouth get ahead of your brain sometimes. 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, INTERNATIONAL 1466 said:

Boy, I wouldn't say that to him. He is really good, and I like him. You know, you are a smart guy and probably a good mechanic, but you sure can let your mouth get ahead of your brain sometimes. 

My mouth can't move fast enough to outrun my brain... neither can my fingers on a keyboard.  No other explanation that I can come up with, other than the parts guy didn't know. And I would have for sure told a parts guy that who tried to pawn off a bolt to replace the manifold studs on a 400 series.  I've had no issues getting studs from IH, or McMaster Carr if that is where I need to get them at. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Studs with the heavier longer Nuts is the only way to go I've never had trouble getting the studs I find the Nuts are harder to come by 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I find even good parts guys, get confused by the new parts numbers and computers,  then they are too busy to investigate.   I’ve found out from you guys here that parts are available, that my old timer best parts guy......told me we’re no longer available -years ago. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, ksfarmdude said:

Studs with the heavier longer Nuts is the only way to go I've never had trouble getting the studs I find the Nuts are harder to come by 

How many of those nuts do you want ? 

I know where there’s s bucket full of them . 

Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, J-Mech said:

My mouth can't move fast enough to outrun my brain... neither can my fingers on a keyboard.  No other explanation that I can come up with, other than the parts guy didn't know. And I would have for sure told a parts guy that who tried to pawn off a bolt to replace the manifold studs on a 400 series.  I've had no issues getting studs from IH, or McMaster Carr if that is where I need to get them at. 

At one time, the exhaust manifold studs & nuts DID sub to a prevailing torque grade 8 bolt, p/n 1809774C1, and the studs were not available.  Most SRC reman engines came with these bolts in the cylinder head, ready for installation.  The part number for the bolts has since subbed back to the traditional 682840C1 stud, & 687987C1 nut, and 684034C1 washer.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Alittle off topic  but I'll never purchase another caseIH reman engine from SRC  the one I got once had poor quality  aftermarket bolts even had exhaust stud holes fixed with heilcoils and had to swap parts from the old engine to make it useable on top of that it only  lasted 1500 hrs before the cam went bad poor poor quality parts very disappointed 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Timing on this thread is good (for me) and sorry if I'm somewhat hijacking it.

Recently took the head from my 1466 to get rebuilt and while there, had them remove many of the broken bolts/studs from the exhaust manifold. Which holes get studs vs bolts (like I said, many were busted off)?

Thanks!

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, ksfarmdude said:

Alittle off topic  but I'll never purchase another caseIH reman engine from SRC  the one I got once had poor quality  aftermarket bolts even had exhaust stud holes fixed with heilcoils and had to swap parts from the old engine to make it useable on top of that it only  lasted 1500 hrs before the cam went bad poor poor quality parts very disappointed 

Mechanic at our local dealer told me awhile back they quit using remans too. They rebuild them in the shop now. Have a somewhat local machine shop does good work on the parts too.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I’ve been using grade 8 bolts on the ones I’ve done with much success!! I believe I even did bolts on the 1256 and 1456, and so far, they are tight!

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Farmall1066 said:

I’ve been using grade 8 bolts on the ones I’ve done with much success!! I believe I even did bolts on the 1256 and 1456, and so far, they are tight!

That is what I do............but the manifold goes on my mill and I take a skim cut with a fly cutter to true everything up first.  No issues here.

Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, ksfarmdude said:

Studs with the heavier longer Nuts is the only way to go I've never had trouble getting the studs I find the Nuts are harder to come by 

A few years ago I was able to get those nuts from either steiner or All states.  I believe they called them “high nuts”

Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, Mike56073 said:

A few years ago I was able to get those nuts from either steiner or All states.  I believe they called them “high nuts”

ITS BETTER IF YOU CAN GET THEM IN  BRASS. THEY DONT RUST TO THE STUD THEN. FORD USED TO USE THEM ON THEIR EXHAUST COLLECTOR PIPE FLANGE TO THE BOTTOM OF MANIFOLD.I AM TALKING JUST THE NUTS. FORD STILL HAS THEM. GET THE HIGH NUTS THHEY ARE HEAVIER AND TALLER.

Link to post
Share on other sites
29 minutes ago, farmall666 said:

ITS BETTER IF YOU CAN GET THEM IN  BRASS. THEY DONT RUST TO THE STUD THEN. FORD USED TO USE THE ON THEIR EXHAUST COLLECTOR PIPE FLANGE TO THE BOTTOM OF MANIFOLD.

Doesn't really matter if the nuts rust to the stud.  The exhaust manifold isn't something you remove unless necessary.  As long as you put antiseize on them, they will still come off several years later.  Plus, I don't think the brass holds the torque like the steel.  If it was a 25-35 ftlb torque setting, sure.  But the 55 ftlb that this manifold uses is pretty steep for a brass nut.  It might not hold it at all. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, farmall666 said:

ITS BETTER IF YOU CAN GET THEM IN  BRASS. THEY DONT RUST TO THE STUD THEN. FORD USED TO USE THE ON THEIR EXHAUST COLLECTOR PIPE FLANGE TO THE BOTTOM OF MANIFOLD.

Never seen brass studs used and doubt they would handle the torque but only seen brass nuts used on certain things

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...