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International T-9 Diesel


IH OAK
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Took the motor out of a TD-9 loader tractor one time---- it was a bear! --- I had to slide the clutch throw out bearing shaft clear out to get mine to come over the hump. I drove my shaft out to the right side. ---- Been over 23 years and CRS dont help!

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15 hours ago, IH OAK said:

Thanks. I read it a couple of days ago. it's a later engine. 

Is it hard to remove the clutch and flywheel while the engine is still in there? Flywheel is a little heavy but shouldn't be too difficult to do that. Once the clutch is removed, its only a couple of bolts. I dont know how tight the working space is. Once the engine is out, the flywheel will come out too.

Other idea, can the top of the bell housing be removed on the crawler? I did this on my WD9 and it made it possible to lift the engine + flywheel and clutch straight up when the clutch and transmission were apart from each other.

If you are not able to do that, than I dont know either. But if your manual says its possible, it is. Look very carefully if you didn't look over something 

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17 hours ago, IH OAK said:
17 hours ago, DWF said:

IH Oak go to the construction equipment board on this forum, there is a guy working on a TD-9 doing the same thing as you, at least read it and there are pictures.

DWF

Thanks. I read it a couple of days ago. it's a later engine. 

If it's my engine you're talking about- it's newer than yours but very similar to remove. From one of your pictures you still show the clutch throwout bearing cross lever still in the machine- that has to come out. I didn't remove the equalizer spring cap (6 bolts) as the spring itself was worn enough on the front bushing/pin to slide off.  Mine came out the 1/4 inch and stuck like yours. I used the load leveller/cherry picker like you but jammed 2 wedges on either side of the 2 dowel pins on the back plate. It's getting the correct angle on the engine and a bit of force but when it pops- all is good.  Just saying that's what I did. 

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Thanks all!

The engine is out. I had a hunch all along that the clutch was holding me up so I pulled it loose and the engine came right out. I am going to reinstall the engine with the clutch on it to save all the hassle of lining that stuff up.

I have a hunch that the guy (he was rough on EVERYTHING...ether and all) slipped the clutch allot as it is cracked and the pilot bearing is disintegrating.

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I'm happy that you got it out! I'll bet you are happier than me.Good luck to you.

DWF

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NOW the REAL work begins!!! LOL!! --- glad you got it out! Putting it back in will be even harder! Take your time and work safely on it!

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Radial cracks in a flywheel are very normal.  Not sure I've ever seen a used flywheel that wasn't cracked from the center out.  IH even had specs for how long/wide a crack could be on some other tractors.   Now, if the cracks run circularly around the flywheel--its junk.

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I got the rods and pistons out on Friday (the fourth) and rod 4 spun a bearing. It looks like it may be more than .030" damage. All the other bearings were showing copper. If it comes to it, does anyone know where I can get a crank? 

I know I asked before but where are the best places to find parts? 

Here's some pics.

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I do have a good crank, does need grounding. But I don't think you would like to know about shipping costs..

As for other parts, www.weberstractorworks.com might have NOS parts like bearings, pistons, sleeves etc. You do need deep pockets.

Used parts, visit local collectors or scraps yards

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Thanks all. 

Weber's has bearings for WAY cheaper than Jensales but they say their for "WD-9 - 650" Is that a Super WD-9? Would the bearings interchange?

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Lets stop and take a breath......From earlier comments on this thread, we were discussing how you needed to take it apart and see what was wrong and then decide what to do.

OK, you have a spun bearing, looks like you would need a rod & probably a crank, at the very least.    Plus all the other parts to rebuild a motor.  I would suggest you get some prices on those things, then stop and evaluate....is this crawler worth the $$$ it will take to fix up?   And don't forget, there may be a lot of other stuff wrong too---undercarriage, tranny, etc.    Will the tractor pay for itself if you DO fix it.  (BTW, you will almost never get your money back on fix-up-to-sell)

Its not a sin to abandon a project if its not cost effective.   I know how hard it can be when you are emotionally invested to not go ahead anyway (its called "pouring money down the rathole").    That's got to be your decision though!   IDK, maybe you will find parts reasonable and have a real use for the tractor.....just, don't forget to stop & consider cost/benefit.   

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7 hours ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

Lets stop and take a breath......From earlier comments on this thread, we were discussing how you needed to take it apart and see what was wrong and then decide what to do.

OK, you have a spun bearing, looks like you would need a rod & probably a crank, at the very least.    Plus all the other parts to rebuild a motor.  I would suggest you get some prices on those things, then stop and evaluate....is this crawler worth the $$$ it will take to fix up?   And don't forget, there may be a lot of other stuff wrong too---undercarriage, tranny, etc.    Will the tractor pay for itself if you DO fix it.  (BTW, you will almost never get your money back on fix-up-to-sell)

Its not a sin to abandon a project if its not cost effective.   I know how hard it can be when you are emotionally invested to not go ahead anyway (its called "pouring money down the rathole").    That's got to be your decision though!   IDK, maybe you will find parts reasonable and have a real use for the tractor.....just, don't forget to stop & consider cost/benefit.   

2x easy to have > $6K in engine and $5K in USED !! uc

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I agree with Jeff. Decide what the damage is and what you need to fix it. These things get expensive very quickly. Spending money isn't bad as long as you think its worth it.

I've heard on here that Reliance parts aren't the best quality and Jensales mostly sells Reliance if I'm not mistaken. Don't have experience with Reliance myself. So watch out

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If you have the money and can use the machine, why not fix it? Yes, it’s obsolete, and I’m sure you couldn’t resell it for a profit. Yard art is one thing, but if you can use it a little bit it won’t take long to get several thousand dollars worth of work out of it. It costs $1,500/week to rent a skid steer loader of any size. 

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On 6/10/2021 at 10:28 AM, Dirt_Floor_Poor said:

If you have the money and can use the machine, why not fix it? Yes, it’s obsolete, and I’m sure you couldn’t resell it for a profit. Yard art is one thing, but if you can use it a little bit it won’t take long to get several thousand dollars worth of work out of it. It costs $1,500/week to rent a skid steer loader of any size. 

Thanks. Exactly my thoughts that I can't put on paper.

Yard art drives me nuts.

I already have several people wanting me to get it done and fix their driveways/trails and level ground for grain bins.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I took the crank to C&P in Fort Wayne and they said the mains are .010 under and the worst rod is .020 under.

Weber's bearings say "WD-9 - 650" Is that a Super WD-9? Will the bearings work in the D335? I need to know so I can tell them if they need to go to .030 on the mains. They said the mains should clean at .020,  and weber's bearings are way cheaper than Jensales but they only have standard and .030. 

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Olson's has a head gasket but it says "For TD9, WD9........Fits Models: 335 converted to 350"

Will that fit my engine?

The part number in my manual is 53437 DG.

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They also have this kit. I Don't know about prices-I will have to wait till Monday to call them.

It appears from the title "...D335 and D350 gasket set" that they used the same gaskets. Is that correct?

 

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The D335 engines that were converted to 350 cubic inch often have bored out sleeves, so than they will interchange. But for a normal D335, the holes in the head gasket would be too big, so I don't think that would fit. Normal D335 head gasket won't fit a D350 because of smaller bore.

Someone else probably will know the exact answer, but Olsson can probably tell you too

And, do make sure you know if you have flush or protruding sleeves, it makes a difference

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Where can I find rings? All I was able to find was pistons, sleeves and rings for $2000.

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