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International T-9 Diesel


IH OAK
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Sorry guys!--I hadda laugh!-- WOW! lol! gotta be a brute for punishment to mess with a junk 9!--I had 4 of them and of the 4 ,--3 of them ate the front main shells and destroyed all the timing gears--- sold the 4'th one and a month after he ran it ,--YUP ate the timing gears in it! ----front shells run too close to the crank gear that drives the rest of the timing gears and when they slide out a tad---its all over but the shoutin!  I wasnt the only one that had that same problem either, so good luck on your venture!

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13 hours ago, SONNY said:

Sorry guys!--I hadda laugh!-- WOW! lol! gotta be a brute for punishment to mess with a junk 9!--I had 4 of them and of the 4 ,--3 of them ate the front main shells and destroyed all the timing gears--- sold the 4'th one and a month after he ran it ,--YUP ate the timing gears in it! ----front shells run too close to the crank gear that drives the rest of the timing gears and when they slide out a tad---its all over but the shoutin!  I wasnt the only one that had that same problem either, so good luck on your venture!

hummm, i dont see how the brg can slide out when it is stalled with a crush and the tab to hold it in place. been around piles of these diesel engines and this is the very first i heard of that. picture please. you got some good odds 4 out of 4.

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I don't want to be harsh to ya Oak and was trying be be nicer than some but I  would run from this project. I put a fortune in the head of my W9 just because I could at my age. that thing will break the bank . But you have to find this out yourself being a young guy. Don't spend money on the injection pump and injectors until you are ready to fire it up. It may well be money wasted

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Yup, crush fit and tabs shear off and out into the gears they go! lol! --- probably end play in the crankshaft--dont know exactly! ---- sorry no pix. of the damage, first 3 went to the junkyard a long time ago  and---well I think thats where the 4'th one finally ended up at!  He was NOT a happy camper about that deal!

As far as the 9 itself they are a great little dozer, nice to drive and easy to haul. I would still love to have one only with a gas engine in it. ---- none of them left around here anymore ---- all went to the junkyard and I have no way to go 5 states over to get one!

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I got a radiator cap because it is sitting outside and I don't want water in the antifreeze, and when I went to put it on I found that the neck id is too small and there is nothing to hold onto.

I looked in the parts manual and there appears to be two parts to the neck (see atatched pics).IMG_7485.thumb.JPG.b79d4961edd0122514333ef11b4a25d1.JPGIMG_7495.thumb.JPG.e9cfde946d291a73653381e7852654de.JPGIMG_7496.thumb.JPG.d285b4b9437be582eab5b581b44f6f50.JPGIMG_7497.thumb.JPG.7f23ff37ad87dfd2e2e5106a6a521d0e.JPGIMG_7500.thumb.JPG.2a1e002217ea8d8d7b368e94167aa0d3.JPGIMG_7501.thumb.JPG.b343a2bfc6275c0b999402a9f9d62546.JPG

Is there a separate neck thingamajigger that I need to find?

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Compression release valve ! is now open and the lever locks properly now.

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The lights don't appear to be stock. My brother claims that the rear light is correct and that the light we found couldn't be a rear light. I told him that all the lights have the same part number and are the same. Who is right?

IMG_7492.thumb.JPG.0f042d040f649db17d665d4a816df220.JPGIMG_7504.thumb.JPG.d1c11d998ffba3e88601963153ceecbb.JPGIMG_7505.thumb.JPG.f06cc1ff1f28a94fa2d3e0f1694a3854.JPGIMG_7488.thumb.JPG.9bf5b9a1876c3d643ebfd1a9b68972f7.JPGIMG_7489.thumb.JPG.f648263dbcc84435c966ef1eed3099fa.JPGIMG_7490.thumb.JPG.392f13f4e0f6bbc183882f856b2ca072.JPGIMG_7491.thumb.JPG.903dbb6d022973a78a7267f596c29a73.JPG

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On 6/22/2020 at 3:00 AM, Ian Beale said:

The lock on the radiator neck is a drive fit over that cast neck.  As I found when ours rusted off.

I found that you could find old style fuel tank caps that were the right size - those back in the day before emission control so it had a cap vent (so ok for a non-pressurised system) and use their locking ring.  The right tank had  a locking ring of suitable diameter to drive over the TD6 cast neck when you chopped it off the neck of the fuel tank.  You could even end up with a chrome plated cap if you chose.

IIRC the one I used came from a Mark 2 Ford (UK) Zephyr - which won't help you very much I'd guess but a junk yard raid might produce something suitable.

Also when your track adjusters are breaking like that check the amount of flap in the slides for the front idler.  If it is flapping and you put in a higher grade thread you can start breaking the bolts out of the front recoil spring support or even break the recoil spring retaining rods.  Been there, done that.  No T-shirt.

 

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I would be tempted to find a rubber compression plug for the radiator...similar to what IH uses on their 400 series engine dipstick (slide in place & turn wingnut to tighten).   You can buy them in various sizes.  I've seen other old engines with that as the radiator cap.    If that is a non-pressurized system, you would need to make sure it could vent....maybe a hole thru the fitting?

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51 minutes ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

I would be tempted to find a rubber compression plug for the radiator...similar to what IH uses on their 400 series engine dipstick (slide in place & turn wingnut to tighten).   You can buy them in various sizes.  I've seen other old engines with that as the radiator cap.    If that is a non-pressurized system, you would need to make sure it could vent....maybe a hole thru the fitting?

Could I get just the filler neck part somewhere?

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You could try a rad shop

Read above friction fit, you would have to clean up the rust of the cast neck and measure it then go to rad shop and see if they can match it, then tap in place or epoxy or both

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28 minutes ago, Ian Beale said:

IIRC the lights were all the same.

And I ground out the front rim and fitted  7 inch vehicle light units when parts got hard to find

Thanks.

If I change the lights I will probably do LEDs or (maybe) HIDs ?

Just wondering... what is IIRC?

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  • 2 months later...
On 10/27/2020 at 8:26 PM, IH OAK said:

@King of Obsolete what do you think??

hardtail is correct on quick visit to a rad shop. the ih light is on the track pad but the shake apart. for the Twins (2 td-9 winter freight cats) i mounted a simple rubber tractor light inside then put the glass lens back on with the steel mesh guard. works good and look like original IH too.  thansk

 

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On 10/30/2020 at 9:33 PM, King of Obsolete said:

hardtail is correct on quick visit to a rad shop. the ih light is on the track pad but the shake apart. for the Twins (2 td-9 winter freight cats) i mounted a simple rubber tractor light inside then put the glass lens back on with the steel mesh guard. works good and look like original IH too.  thansk

 

@King of ObsoleteDo you think I need to pull the head? A friend of mine who does restorations said to get Marvel mystery oil and heat it to 110+ degrees and dump it in the cylinders and bump the starter every once in a while. He does this for all of his stuck engines and said he has never had an engine stay stuck. Some have still had to be rebuilt but they all come loose no matter how long they've sat.

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56 minutes ago, jass1660 said:

You ain’t got that thing running yet? What’ve you been up to?

Recovering from a car wreck, chainsaw attack, and three sibling's weddings, repairs on Dad's tractor, trying to find a regular job, building a motorized bike..... Also Family politics get in the way?

I got "Little Bull" (TD-9's name I got the bug from KoO) into the barn Saturday, Monday I got 3 of the the injector lines loose and found that the sediment bowl is broke. I also cleaned all the loose fuel lines.

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I put the fuel filters assembly back on (they were off when I got Little Bull) the final filter looks like it has never been used and the aux. element is well used.  I also checked the valves and they are all loose except for compression release valves 2 and 4 are stuck open.

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IH OAK,

 

Parts are obtainable for the 9-series diesels, but quite often it takes a fair amount of time to find what you're looking for and will cost more than equivalent parts for the 6-series (TD-6, MD...).

My tricks when locating parts:

1. Locate a parts manual for the Farmall MD or International TD-6. You'll be surprised at how many parts are common to both 6- and 9-series, and MD parts are easier to find. For example, my 1944 UD-6 uses the same injection nozzles (but not the nozzle body) as my 1948 TD-6 and 1950 Farmall MD. International tried to share parts between many different machines - use that to your advantage. Some parts for my TD-6 were also used in the International Scout!

2. Carefully look at advertisements in Red Power Magazine. There are people who specialize in NOS parts (like Weber's) that might have what you need or give you a lead on who might.

3. Don't count your local Case/IH dealer out just because it's an old machine. The last head gasket I purchased for my UD-9 came from the local Case/IH dealer. They were surprised that it could be ordered, and the price wasn't stupid. International Truck dealers, Case Construction, and Komatsu are also parts sources, along with places like F.P. Smith (I get quite a new NOS parts from them) and Bates Corp.

I guess it all depends on what you want to do with the machine. My UD-9 restoration has been a big learning experience, and that alone has been worth (to me...) the money that most others would classify as being wasted. My TD-6 was a similar project, although it was a bit easier because of the commonality with the more abundant Farmall MD.

If you're looking at this purely from a time/cost point of view then the International gas-start diesels aren't going to be a good fit, especially the 9-, 14-, and 18-series.

But, they are darn fun to operate and sound really good. I learned a lot from my TD-6 and UD-9, and spent a buttload of money and time searching for parts, but overall it's been so much more rewarding that the money spent.

Good luck! If you run into stumbling blocks the guys that frequent the construction forum are really helpful and supportive.

 

                - Matt

 

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IH Oak:

 

I just checked on availability of the 9-series head gaskets, for early D335's with protruding sleeves, and they're available from Agkits, F.P. Smith, and Olson's Gaskets.

Not sure about the D350's with flush mount cylinder sleeves. Also not sure if D335's had flush-mount sleeves, either. My UD-9 has a D335 with protruding sleeves, so that's what I was checking on.

So - at least a little more info...

 

               - Matt

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