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5150 Won't Move


Lou
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I've tried to check the other post on this subject and did what was suggested with no relief.

I purchased a 5150 about a year ago and really like the tractor, powershift is great but the hydraulics were weak after it gets hot, so I took the pump off and took it to a hydraulic shop for rebuild and they couldn't find parts so I bought a rebuilt one from Worthington Ag and put on it. Now it won't move in forward or reverse, doesn't even try. I checked power to the forward and reverse solenoids, 12.5v on both when shuttle shift is in correct position for that direction. The clutch valve is going in and out as the clutch pedal is depressed. The fuses and relays seam to be good. I have looked and it seams that I hooked everything up correctly. The 3-point works correctly and the steering works good. When I shift the powershift sounds like its shift gears. Transmission is full of fluid. I don't know what else to try! It drove fine before the new pump. Any ideas?

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Just a couple thoughts. Is there a drive key on the new pump and was the gear already on? How hard is it to put the old one back on might be a junk pump. Good gaskets and o-rings. The newer tractor I know very little,is there a way to check flow and pressures. 

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No drive key and gear already on pump. The old pump went back as a core charge reimbursement. I replaced most of the o-rings and gasket. Yes flow can be checked if you have the equipment which I don't but I might can check the pressures. The steering and 3 point lift work off the same pump so I know that part is OK.

Thanks for the suggestions.

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A flow tester in #1 remote (bottom) is a great diagnostic tool on those tractors. Start it up and set flow to known GPM (8) then shift into each regulated circuit. Flow should drop a bit then recover right back to preset (8) if it doesn't you have a leak in that circuit. Regulated circuit would be (4) power shift gears, forward & reverse, diff lock, mfd, pto and pto brake.

Another handy pressure reading is the test port on bottom of main pump outlet, with no function demand you should read a low standby of 4-600 psi, steering to lock 2400 psi then remote dead headed should be 300 greater than steering. 

You REALLY need to get a gauge on regulated circuit also as it is pretty important, say its only making 220 of the 300 psi spec. It will run and drive like this but go to field and give her ole Jesse and you will be replacing clutches in trans. 

If tractor drove before pump replacement I would suspect pressure problems with replacement pump. The hydraulic pump / compensator is NOT for the faint of heart on that series. You can take a lot of wild guesses or get service manual and gauges and it will lead you to the problem. 

Good luck! 

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Thanks, I’ll have to get a better set of gauges, the ones I have only go to 400 psi but I have a nephew that can probably fix me up. I’ll let you know what I get. 
Thanks again.  

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To echo what CIHTECH says, time to break out the gauges.  In my experience it is not impossible for a pump failure to cause other mischief in the hydraulic system.  

If I had to hazard a wild guess, assuming that the F/R solenoids are working properly, I would say the inching valve (clutch pedal) isn’t seating properly.  The inching valve, regulated oil supply to the FNR valve and the FNR control are about the only places where a failure could disable both directions at once.  

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Ok put gauges on the test port under the large line going to the remotes, started it up, 700 psi not under load, turned steer al the way one direction and got 2400 psi and deadheaded the remotes and got 2600. Pressures dropped a little after it got warmed up. Not the 300 psi difference it’s suppose to have, what does this tell me? Any ideas?

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Lou, 

Pressures you recorded are good but I would bump the hitch / remote circuit up a 100. What all did you do to tractor when you replaced the pump? There is a ground wire on side window (top right corner looking at it) if this is missed or broken it will stop them dead. Years ago lots of people round here added the high speed gears and took side cover off missed the ground wire when putting cover back on. Reason I mention this is it's right in the pump area, if wiring harness got roughed up during the pump replacement, its simple to check. 

Couple ?'s what is your serial #, does it have "N" in the shuttle? Pretty sure it has to be a Euro tractor??

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I’ll check the ground wire tomorrow. I think it’s a euro tractor also. It’s a 5150 Pro. Yes it has a N in the shuttle. The sn starts with 106....  its a 1996 or 7. The FNR shuttle valve are different than what’s in my service manual, it doesn’t have a modulator solenoid that I can find. I ordered a o-ring kit for the valuing that attaches to the pump but many of them didn’t fit right and I had to reuse some of the old ones, do you think I should take it back apart and make sure they’re not leaking?

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Ground wire is attached, it’s got a bare place but that shouldn’t hurt a ground wire. Having trouble finding a fitting to hook gauge up to regulated circuit. Any easier place to check it?

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Ok checked the regulated pressure and it was 300 psi. Checked the PTO and it work as it should. Tried to check the pressure on the 1st power pack but I’ll have to get another fitting. Checked the ohms on the forward and reverse solenoids, both read 9.2 ohms. Any ideas on where to go next would be appreciated?

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Are the shuttle solenoids getting 12v? Get a gauge in the forward port on shuttle valve. Make sure your inching spool is bottoming out, can't imagine why it isn't if tractor drive right up until pump was replaced. On right hand side of shuttle valve is a spool to rear then 2 springs and a spool to front. Over the years have seen this spool (front) one over travel to to rear and wedge in bore dumping regulated pressure to shuttle valve. I guess with new pump and unstable pressures it would be a possibility. 

Tractors with "N" in shuttle do not have a modulation solenoid. 

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Figured it out! The creeper has been disconnected on this tractor for some reason, when I was changing the hyd pump I must have move the activation lever for the creeper to the neutral position. When I shifted it sure enough power to the wheels. I haven't got it put back together yet. Does the creeper lever need to be toward the back of the tractor or toward the front for normal use? It's hard to get to once the wheel goes back on.

Thanks CIHTech and all others for your help. You've certainly taught me a lot about the tractor for future use!

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Oh boy.  I got caught out by that problem myself, plumb forgot about it.  Right after I bought my MX150 which is a Euro with a creeper.  Messed with the lever in the cab and next time I want to use it, no move.  Engine has to be shut off on them to get it to shift back in gear.

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Good to hear, that is the problem with armchair diagnosing. When I walk up to a tractor I take in so many things, options an etc.... when I am not standing right there or know the tractor it's easy to forget the little things. 

Can easily see how the creeper shift got disengaged as its right there above pump. I should have thought of it myself. I guess it started out as a hydraulic problem so here we go down the wrong road................

Around here when a customer calls in and says I was chopping and ............ I already know what tractor he is using to do each task and know the tractor so sure makes it easier.

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Yeah you probably would have took one look at that creeper lever and seen it was in between gears. The way I look at it I needed to learn more about how the tractor works and I have. If your gonna have equipment 20+ years old you better know how to check a few things. Thanks again. 

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6 hours ago, Ray Mason said:

CIHTECH, What do you think of the OTC 4277 Mechanical Hydraulic Flow Meter?

 

Pretty much the same thing components wise as the one I have, mine just isn't in a fancy blue box! Check out Northern Tool for the one I have , then you would need a hose and load valve. 

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