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hardknocks

Alternator on 66 series

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1 hour ago, Matt Kirsch said:

Sounds like a bad alternator to me. We went through three that failed right off the bat in quick succession before we got one that lasted for more than a few minutes on the W-400. The one on my 1586 isn't acting right (kinda slowly comes up to voltage over the course of an hour) and it was one of the more expensive higher-end rebuilds.

Don't know whether it's a flaw in the alternator design, the rebuild process, or the components used, but rebuilt 10SI's seem to be the worst for getting bad ones out of the box, or having early failures.

Chinese made parts. Used to be Taiwan parts but China can beat their price

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You probably know this but if you have to buy a new one they do make that clocked at 1200 instead of 3:00 so your wires arent hanging out the side. The one you have is the most common it seems I just usually have them order the 12:00 clocked so I dont rip the wires out on brush and it looks nicer 

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1 hour ago, dale560 said:

Chinese made parts. Used to be Taiwan parts but China can beat their price

Other alternators don't seem to have the failure rates, though. Same Chinese parts, same cut-rate shops doing the rebuild work.

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It's putting out. 14.47 volts.  So. It's working. I put a bulb. In line. With. Switch. Tractor off  light shines. Running.  Not lite.  Thanks guys

 

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9 hours ago, Missouri Mule said:

You probably know this but if you have to buy a new one they do make that clocked at 1200 instead of 3:00 so your wires arent hanging out the side. The one you have is the most common it seems I just usually have them order the 12:00 clocked so I dont rip the wires out on brush and it looks nicer 

I have just removed the four bolts and reclocked them before too. Although I think I remember one case where the casting wouldn’t let that happen. Might have been on a different model.

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I'm glad you got her working. Thx-Ace 

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👍

John 

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Yep, alternators and thermostats, takes 3 to get a good one.

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Toss the delco Alt they are made for pick-ups & cars get yourself a Nippon denso brushless alt problems solved

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46 minutes ago, ksfarmdude said:

Toss the delco Alt they are made for pick-ups & cars get yourself a Nippon denso brushless alt problems solved

Pretty true. The dirt and heat really take a toll on the delco.

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On 7/3/2020 at 7:23 PM, ksfarmdude said:

Toss the delco Alt they are made for pick-ups & cars get yourself a Nippon denso brushless alt problems solved

You have a part number for replacement

 

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29 minutes ago, hardknocks said:

You have a part number for replacement

 

No I don't I get them from deere they are replacement alternators for 40 series tractors and I use them on our IH and they work very well

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1 hour ago, hardknocks said:

direct bolt on

 

yep Identical

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On 7/2/2020 at 4:08 PM, hardknocks said:

It's putting out. 14.47 volts.  So. It's working. I put a bulb. In line. With. Switch. Tractor off  light shines. Running.  Not lite.  Thanks guys

 

What did you do? The way I read your post the bulb didnt help so did you replace it or what? Thanks 

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The purpose of the resistor is to protect the tractor wiring in case of a failure in the circuit between the alternator output stud and the battery terminal on the starter solenoid. If that wire fails the entire amperage of the alternator will go out the #1 terminal back to the ignition switch.  The wiring and switch would not last long if it had 70 amps flowing through it.

Applying full battery voltage to the #1 terminal will not cause any problem. That terminal receives full charging voltage through the diode trio in the alternator. It is also connected through one of the brushes to the stator. The regulator controls the voltage output by  varying the ground the other brush

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i end up putting a lite in line after the switch.  and ran new 10 ga to solinoid.  when i turn key on its lite up and after started it goes out.  so now im guessing if its not charging the lite will stay glowing when its running

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On 7/10/2020 at 4:22 PM, Owen Aaland said:

The purpose of the resistor is to protect the tractor wiring in case of a failure in the circuit between the alternator output stud and the battery terminal on the starter solenoid. If that wire fails the entire amperage of the alternator will go out the #1 terminal back to the ignition switch.  The wiring and switch would not last long if it had 70 amps flowing through it.

Applying full battery voltage to the #1 terminal will not cause any problem. That terminal receives full charging voltage through the diode trio in the alternator. It is also connected through one of the brushes to the stator. The regulator controls the voltage output by  varying the ground the other brush

Thanks for posting that

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