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hardknocks

Alternator on 66 series

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Got a 1066. That I have all the wiring off. Due to painting. But needs arise. And have to use it.    Long story short can't. Get it to charge . This is how I wired. The alternator.  Battery to key switch.,,,key switch to alternator.  Lug on alternator. To battery. And from lug on alternator. To spade connector. And it won't charge. And it's a new alternator green wire is from key switch

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Technically, the green wire should go to the resistor behind the panel that is between your feet...but it *should* charge if the big lug has battery power at all times (not keyed power)...Unless you have a bad alternator or simply need to raise your rpms.... Are you checking for voltage with a dvom or just watching the amp gauge?

Travis

 

P.S. I'm sitting here taking bets on how many responses you get before someone tells you to "just put on a on-wire alternator"....

 

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On the back side of the alternator, next to the rear bearing is a D shaped hole. Inside that hole is a tab that you can use to full field the alternator and see if it will charge by grounding that tab with a small screwdriver or probe of some sort. If it charges then the regulator has failed. If it does not charge there is a problem.

 

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They tested it before I left the auto parts store and it was putting out the correct voltage and yes the lug has constant power.   So what does the resister do.  I've had them go bad. And won't charge. But it's bypassed

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I'm betting the wire that goes between the charge lug and the battery (B+ main lug on starter solenoid) has a bad connection, or isn't hooked up... or is just broke. 

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Would agree with J-Mech. Especially how you can see all the corrosion on the terminal end connected to the battery stud. 

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6 hours ago, hardknocks said:

i will run a new wire from alternator to battery and try that will update

Why not just clean the terminals and check the wire?  If it is bad, then replace it.  

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Like sparky said. A single wire alternator would simplify this. Thx-Ace 

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28 minutes ago, acem said:

Like sparky said. A single wire alternator would simplify this. Thx-Ace 

I think it was tongue-in-cheek....

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there is no sheet metal on the tractor whatso ever  so its very simple to eliminate the old wiring by just running a new one to starter.  to me anyway

 

Thanks

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5 minutes ago, hardknocks said:

there is no sheet metal on the tractor whatso ever  so its very simple to eliminate the old wiring by just running a new one to starter.  to me anyway

 

Thanks

So, you're one of those guys who just unhooks wires, then runs a new one draping it here and there.  I love fixing things after people do that.  What a mess! 😡

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NO!!!! im in process of painting the tractor..... the sheet  metal is off Due to that fact .. and new wiring is going on.  i ended up having to put the tractor back to use for a short period of time.  so iI'M TEMPORARLY putting minimal wires on. so it will  charge.  You dont know me so before you jump to conclusions  you might need to consider the whole story.  you WILL NOT find one of my tractors half axx'ed.  all i wanted was some  friendly advise  not negativity. thats what this forum is for  ADVISE  not Criticism.

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3 hours ago, hardknocks said:

NO!!!! im in process of painting the tractor..... the sheet  metal is off Due to that fact .. and new wiring is going on.  i ended up having to put the tractor back to use for a short period of time.  so iI'M TEMPORARLY putting minimal wires on. so it will  charge.  You dont know me so before you jump to conclusions  you might need to consider the whole story.  you WILL NOT find one of my tractors half axx'ed.  all i wanted was some  friendly advise  not negativity. thats what this forum is for  ADVISE  not Criticism.

Good luck with your tractor. 

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JMech just can’t help himself. 

John

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10 hours ago, hardknocks said:

NO!!!! im in process of painting the tractor..... the sheet  metal is off Due to that fact .. and new wiring is going on.  i ended up having to put the tractor back to use for a short period of time.  so iI'M TEMPORARLY putting minimal wires on. so it will  charge.  You dont know me so before you jump to conclusions  you might need to consider the whole story.  you WILL NOT find one of my tractors half axx'ed.  all i wanted was some  friendly advise  not negativity. thats what this forum is for  ADVISE  not Criticism.

Dont get too worked up, lots of info here just be patient. 

One thing I have a question for you and others here. I seem to remember the #1 lead needing a resistor or load (lamp) to charge correctly. You make no mention of having a resistor or charge lamp in your wiring. I would think it would charge somewhat without but nobody has mentioned it and I'm not afraid to be wrong. 

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From our very own JEFF C ILL. I thought he explained it well and save my typing 

Screenshot_20200701-193801_Samsung Internet.jpg

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This is a perfect application for a single wire alternator.

Or a redneck single wire alternator. Connect the two spade terminals to a single wire. Put an alligator clip on the other end and connect it to the battery connected on the alternator, or to the battery when in use. Disconnect the clip when you shut it off. It's is t temporary patch.

I know this works.

Thx-Ace 

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On 6/28/2020 at 9:49 AM, hardknocks said:

Got a 1066. That I have all the wiring off. Due to painting. But needs arise. And have to use it.    Long story short can't. Get it to charge . This is how I wired. The alternator.  Battery to key switch.,,,key switch to alternator.  Lug on alternator. To battery. And from lug on alternator. To spade connector. And it won't charge. And it's a new alternator green wire is from key switch

IMG_20200628_093907018_HDR_copy_1748x2328.jpg

Where did you buy the alternator? A 1000 years ago we used to fix alternators, generators And starters. Even kept a few new ones on hand. Surprisingly the AC Delco rebuilds were the worst for having a bad one now and then. Used to take new non working alternators apart to clean brushes or fix stuck brushes and the like. Maynard tells you to bypass regulator a lot of times this trick would get dirty brush set  to work.

 

PS the batt wire doesn’t appear to be horrible. The solder is just green on the end from corrosion 

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Touch a screwdriver to the bearing cap on the end while it's running, if the cap is magnetic,  its charging. Otherwise I'd do like ACE said, if that doesn't make it charge you've got a bad alternator. 

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I got the alternator from O'Reilly's .  I do not have a resistor or bulb in line. I will try what acem. Said. .  it had very little magnetism when I touch screwdriver to the bearing end

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There is a small amount of magnetism when it's not charging. When it is charging the magnetism is strong. Thx-Ace 

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Sounds like a bad alternator to me. We went through three that failed right off the bat in quick succession before we got one that lasted for more than a few minutes on the W-400. The one on my 1586 isn't acting right (kinda slowly comes up to voltage over the course of an hour) and it was one of the more expensive higher-end rebuilds.

Don't know whether it's a flaw in the alternator design, the rebuild process, or the components used, but rebuilt 10SI's seem to be the worst for getting bad ones out of the box, or having early failures.

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8 minutes ago, Matt Kirsch said:

Sounds like a bad alternator to me. We went through three that failed right off the bat in quick succession before we got one that lasted for more than a few minutes on the W-400. The one on my 1586 isn't acting right (kinda slowly comes up to voltage over the course of an hour) and it was one of the more expensive higher-end rebuilds.

Don't know whether it's a flaw in the alternator design, the rebuild process, or the components used, but rebuilt 10SI's seem to be the worst for getting bad ones out of the box, or having early failures.

thanks. everyone 

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