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TD9 steering clutch release fork clearance


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Okay gentlemen, I have another question for you.  I've reinstalled the clutches on my 1945 TD9 and put the release forks back in place.  They move freely, but it doesn't seem like there is enough room for them to rotate far enough to compress the clutch spring.  I know you don't need to compress the spring very much, but it just looks like the yoke is going to hit the bolts on the bearing cap before it does anything.  It may be that since I haven't installed the frame cover yet the yokes aren't really sitting in their proper position?  It looks like some previous owner had a similar concern and ground away some of the fork.  You can see that in the picture.  So how much space should I have between the fork and the bearing cap bolts at this point?  I don't want to get this thing all the way back together just to find something isn't right.  Here are a couple pictures to show you what I'm talking about.

20200625_082958.jpg

20200625_083111.jpg

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In what way?  That looks pretty much how mine is.  I took my picture from the back side of the yoke looking down.  I can't tell from the picture in the service manual how much space there should  be and it doesn't give any indication 

20200625_083011.jpg

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It is, that is the problem.  In that first picture, I have the release fork rotated all the way so the throwout bearing is just touching the spring cup.  The problem is I don't see any other way these parts could be installed.  From the rear of the tractor (as seen in the picture in my second post) everything looks fine.  The forks aren't bent and all the bushings are new, so everything is tight. 

I just went out an put the frame cover on and installed the bushings where the release forks pass through at the top.  Everything lines up fine, but when I look through the inspection holes I can see the forks still almost touching the bearing cap bolts.

The only thing I can see that may be wrong is that the throwout bearing ins't wide enough and so the fork has to rotate farther to contact the spring retainer.  So I guess the question is: Should the rear of the throwout bearing rest against the release collar or should there be a space?  When I took the clutches apart both bearings were flush against the release collars.  I had to replace one bearing and the new one was VERY difficult to press on.  Makes me think maybe it shouldn't go on that far?

Thanks for the help.

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I do have the service manual but it doesn't say anything about how much clearance there should be or show that specific picture that I could find.  Everything is back the way is was when I disassembled it (except with new parts), maybe that is why it didn't turn before.

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It appears from your photos that you have everything installed correctly.  What about the pivot pin on the bottom of the fork?  Those can be difficult to get lined up and installed properly if you are doing it solo.  Yes, the throw-out bearing should bottom out in the collar.  Attached is a photo after my installation.

Gene

IMG_2890.thumb.JPG.5338f5fec08a3b2bc061bb5dc1e51419.JPG

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I use lots of never seize on the bottom pivot so it is well lubed. put the deck plate on and lots of never seize on the steering fork and the bushing. it is when you hook up the fork to the steering clutch lever is when you need everything in the right places. the trick is to use channel lock pilers and hold the steering fork tight against the bearing as you figure out where the arm goes on that joins the linkage to the levers. also the fibre horse hair seal will be gone in the bushing so stack old O-rings up and when you push the little arm down till the bolt goes through this will seal the O-rings to keep any water from getting in. plus lots of never seize too. once everything is hooked up and adjusted the levers should be easy. then go out and work the cat and come back and adjust again because all the disces and such have now set them selfs in.

thansk

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Thanks guys.  Yes I do have the pivot bolts lined up and installed per the manual with equal distance on the fork bushings, top and bottom.  Good to know the throwout bearing is supposed to be installed flush.  I was not looking forward to pulling those clutches out again and cutting the bearings off if I had done it wrong.

If you all are interested in seeing my work in progress I made a few YouTube videos of it.  There are three of them so far.  You can start them here: 

 

 

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So I figured out what the problem was.  The pivot bolt wasn't screwed in far enough so the forks were sitting a little low.  Even though it looked like it was in far enough, and the forks pivoted fine, they were not centered vertically on the clutch center line.  This made them interfere with the flange bolts ever so slightly.  I raised them a little and now there seems to be plenty of clearance.  There is no mention of this in the manual and it is interesting how sensitive the clearance is to very small height adjustments.  Hope this helps someone else.

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