Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Ralph----

Seems like you commented somewhere several years ago that you made a break over lever for giving leverage for the engagement of the PTO on your 2090.

If you did------how about snapping a couple of pictures for me.

Mine is really hard to snap into the detent position.    Uhhhhh-------I musta lost some more strength through the winter.  I don't have the strength to snap it into detent today.

Found out the hard way the problem with not snapping into detent several years ago.  (burned pto clutch out)

Anybody else been down this road.  I've got some ideas------but somebody else may have a better one.

 

 

DD

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bump fwd-----

I will double check and make sure the cable is moving freely when unhitched from the PTO lever on the hyd valve.

Been heading downhill for a number of years------but really sorta crash landed through the winter.  No strength left.

In the process------I want to make sure my grandson can handle it easy enough.

*****

How are the crops coming.

 

 

DD

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry for being so slow noticing this Anson. Yes, I made a lever for the pto engagement on my 2090 many years ago and it still works great. I installed it in the slot where the hitch lever would be, if the tractor had three point (it doesn't). I'll try to remember to ask my brother, a long time Case tech, if there is an adjustment for detent pressure on the pto engagement. Mine has never given a minute's trouble in the 8300 hours it has on it. I'll get a picture of it tomorrow. Feel free to remind me if I forget. My memory is pretty good, but short. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is an adjustment on reaching the detent-------either by stretching the spring inside the valve or adding shim washers (#36) in illustration.

I added and subtracted shims several years ago (after having the PTO rebuilt) so to stay in detent and still disengage when the engine is shut off.  It took a good strong pull to lock it in detent at that time.  And I felt it more so last year.

I really think my problem is in loss of strength.

Post me up a picture of your lever-------thanks.

Number may be wrong------but what you are doing is tightening the pressure on the spring that is working against the ball.

 

D81C578C-A3B5-4907-8B12-3A34CFF8A39E(full).thumb.png.a547b4e14fd84d204357f8abd85054f2.png

 

Anson 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, Delta Dirt said:

 

I really think my problem is in loss of strength.

Post me up a picture of your lever-------thanks

Anson 

 

 

 

Case did not design that pto control as well as they could have. The next series (94) went to a lever control instead of this "pull button". It was set in a location that I found required two hands to make a smooth engagement of the pto. The knob eventually pulled off this cable so I went to this lever design. I think its a lever off an old roto tiller. I did a video showing the various details of the conversion and will hopefully get it on my youtube channel soon. For now, here is a photo of the console showing the modified lever location. Hope it is some help. 

IMG_1382[1].JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And here is a short video that might give a little more detail as to whats involved in the lever conversion. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the professional "news report" Ralph.  You and ol' Roosty are getting pretty good!!

My tractor has a 3 pt hitch----so slot you used is not available.  The slots for #3-#4 remote valves are open

I had thought about something similar to yours---- working through the open slots.

And-----also creating a lever linked onto top of current pull cable (replacing the plastic knob and installing a small clevis so to connect lever and cable).  I have been thinking I would make a lever for either application.

 Good point I see in looking at your video is to look at the factory lever (for the additional remotes) and see what all might be involved in using one of them.

Question:  did you use the original factory cable or find a shorter one??

I think the plastic pull knob had to be the weak point on the cable from the start.  The previous owner had replaced the knob with a T handle------but still was clumsy in pulling fully into detent while sitting in the seat.

Also might want to look at the "24 series" engagement mechanism.

When you have time-----see if you can get a shot from the bottom side

 

Thanks---

 

Anson

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Delta Dirt said:

Thanks for the professional "news report" Ralph.  You and ol' Roosty are getting pretty good!!

My tractor has a 3 pt hitch----so slot you used is not available.  The slots for #3-#4 remote valves are open

 

Question:  did you use the original factory cable or find a shorter one??

Thanks--

 

Anson

 

 

Far as I recall I did not change anything on the original cable and it works.  Yes, you would have to use one of the other remote slots to install a pto lever since your tractor's three point lever takes up that space. I'll try to get a picture inside the console first chance I get. I'm hoping to head out after supper and spray that last field of oats if the wind drops enough. I hate blowing herbicide all across the country side in the wind. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Find a long lever from a 94 series, 1 or 2 remote, 3 and 4 are shorter, and put it in your extra remote slot. The pivot should be in there,  just need the lever and some cable readjustment to make it work on your pto

This has been on my to do list for our 2090, but the pto still engages pretty smooth so no hurty yet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info on the 94 series levers Fireman.

To anybody looking in------Just make sure the engagement pull is locking into detent.  You can feel it when it clicks into detent.

Note:  do not operate if PTO disengages while engine is running!!!!

I burned my PTO clutch out several years ago by sticking a prop under the knob to hold in engagement.  PTO operated------but apparently was slipping slightly.   That's when I learned about the full detent-------costly education on my part.

PTO should only disengage when engine is shut off (and no hyd pressure); or by knocking the knob down manually.  Properly set-----it will take a slight effort to engage and slight effort to bump it out.

******

My tractor has less than 2,000 hrs on it------- but not as near as clean as Loadstar's 2090 with 8,300 hrs.  You take good care of your equipment Ralph. 

 

DD

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/25/2020 at 6:06 PM, Delta Dirt said:

 

Question:  did you use the original factory cable or find a shorter one??

 

When you have time-----see if you can get a shot from the bottom side

 

Thanks---

 

Anson

 

 

Over two inches rain last night so I had time to look into the console of the 2090. This picture hopefully shows the arm I welded onto the roto tiller lever and how it connects to the original pto cable. It works but I can see room for improvement. Maybe move the pin hole on the arm  so that there is a little less travel for the lever. At present it uses up all the length of the "hitch" slot. It seems to fully engage though so obviously it works. I've used the tractor many hours on the grain vac, haybine, round baler and I think it would have slipped by now if it was going to. 

 

2090 console.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep------looked in the console over the weekend.  I follow what you did just fine (thinking along the same lines as I am).

Location of the pivot point and length of travel on the arm are definitely critical.

For right now------I am going the "old redneck way" with a 10" Crescent wrench pivoting off of a 1 1/8" hitch bushing--------all operating on top of the console and lifting on the nut under the knob.

I won't be using it a whole lot.  Been getting frequent rain through the spring and just getting cranked off to mow the lady's yard------so figure I don't want to take something apart that will work.

Update:  I started this post early in the afternoon.  PTO wuz working fine when I scrubbed too close to a tree limb and broke the side window out of the cab.  One more thing to fix!!!😰

No wonder Ralph's tractor looks better than mine.

 

DD

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anson, while discussing this subject with my brother he recommended you might need a new cable for your pto if it is very hard to pull. He has replaced a few for that reason. He has been a Case mechanic since the 1970s so I guess he has learned a little. The cable will be expensive like everything from CIH but still cheaper than replacing burnt out pto disks. I am still running the original cable on mine though. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...