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Repair of a 966 in the far North


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1 hour ago, Big Sand Lake Lodge said:

OMG Why didn't I think of The King. He has helped us out many times. Lynn Lake is the closest hamlet with a all weather airport. We use Lynn Lake when our runway is soup and we can't land wheeled aircraft. The King is the only person with a van and he has been so kind to assist us and ferry our guests from the float plane dock to the airport from time to time. He even signed a few copies of his book for some of our guests.

Right now I'm stuck in Tennessee. Our governments have closed the border and shut us down until they think the world is safe again. So I'm using this time to stage materials so we will be ready when they lift the blockade.

Once we are able to get on site again I'll be sure to photo document the repair and share with all you good folks.

Check us out if you care to at www.bigsandlakelodge.com

Wow, it is not going to happen this year, for sure, but I just added this to my bucket list. 

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Like this post, I have used 2x6s screwed together on uneven ground to provide a smooth rolling surface for a floor jack. Wedge some blocks of wood on each side of the front axle bolster to prevent the front part from tipping. 

1 hour ago, 7and8and1456 said:

Here is how I did an 856.

004 (Large).JPG

 

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I used to have 2 side crank trailer jacks like the one in the picture below. They were 3" square and about 3' or so tall. I had welded on a plate up near the top of the jack. The plate was about 8"×10" and was half inch thick. I had holes drilled in it to where it would bolt right onto an IH frame rail, one on each side. On the jacks I had, I had taken the plate off the bottom and put some large, about 6" heavy duty casters. Worked real good, didn't take up much space. Then if something was off just a bit, you could crank one or the other side up or down to even things out. 

180455.png

Edited by RBootsMI
Forgot the picture
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In your case, I'd likely encourage you to slide the clutch plate & pressure plate on the transmission input shafts, slide the tractor back together, and install the pressure plate bolts thru the bottom opening.   Its less likely to damage the transmission pulling the tractor back together if everything isn't in perfect alignment.   Its not hard, just a bit tedious as you have to rotate the engine several times to start and then draw up all the bolts evenly.   Did that for years until I made the tool.   

BTW - NEVER "force" the two together, if they don't slide together with minimal force, there is something not right in the alignment.

One of the things I found most helpful is 2 long alignment studs.  Put one in place of the front frame bolt on each side .  It really helps the engine and tranny line back up as you pull it together.  A couple long bolts with the heads cut off work great.

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39 minutes ago, Big Sand Lake Lodge said:

Great pics. So many solutions.

Now if the Canadian government would just open the border and allow me and maybe some of my new friends to travel north. Knock this out we would.

We have been designated a non-essential business by the Canadian government because we are in the travel and tourism industry.

There should be a special exception made for "care and maintenance of the facilities"... in a normal world. But we are talking about the Canukistan gov't!

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On 6/7/2020 at 12:08 PM, RBootsMI said:

I used to have 2 side crank trailer jacks like the one in the picture below. They were 3" square and about 3' or so tall. I had welded on a plate up near the top of the jack. The plate was about 8"×10" and was half inch thick. I had holes drilled in it to where it would bolt right onto an IH frame rail, one on each side. On the jacks I had, I had taken the plate off the bottom and put some large, about 6" heavy duty casters. Worked real good, didn't take up much space. Then if something was off just a bit, you could crank one or the other side up or down to even things out. 

180455.png

I have 2 sets made from that same jack. I put 8" HD swivel casters on mine I found on ebay. I don't use them much on tricycle front tractors unless I put a cherry picker attached to the radiator casting to hold it upright. 

 

 KIMG0897.thumb.JPG.328a123d8ef854d0e7ac197355ad454e.JPG

KIMG0896.thumb.JPG.7627c70b1ee7fbee882516b43b46655b.JPG

 

This is more stable for the narrow fronts. 

KIMG0898.thumb.JPG.ba5c56dae04503a69b2a852cec3659a4.JPG

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17 hours ago, FarmerFixEmUp said:

I have 2 sets made from that same jack. I put 8" HD swivel casters on mine I found on ebay. I don't use them much on tricycle front tractors unless I put a cherry picker attached to the radiator casting to hold it upright. 

 

 KIMG0897.thumb.JPG.328a123d8ef854d0e7ac197355ad454e.JPG

KIMG0896.thumb.JPG.7627c70b1ee7fbee882516b43b46655b.JPG

 

This is more stable for the narrow fronts. 

KIMG0898.thumb.JPG.ba5c56dae04503a69b2a852cec3659a4.JPG

I'm liking this idea. The up side for me is I can use them for other jobs when I need them. In my world everything needs to be multi use.

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Same Idea as mentioned by others, Here is mine I use them for a lot of other things. Got the jacks from harbor fright. I have common bolts and a plate to attach to the roller box.

jack stand.jpg

Jack stands..jpg

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I had a 560 supported from the split at the rear end forward on mine(kept the T/A section with the motor). The jacks supported it fine but the cranking mechanism on the cheap jacks is in my opinion OK and doable but could have a better ratio of gearing as they are quick. If you turn the handle it would be better if you had to crank more turns for the movement. I only use them just a few times, if I was doing more work better jacks would make life easier.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A quick update to bring everyone up to speed. If anyone considers the pace of a tortoise speedy.

Paul and the good people of Fawcett Tractor have worked their magic and have provide an extensive list of required parts. Thanks to everyone. 

Now to make a substantial monetary deposit to the Fawcett bank account and get those parts to our materials staging area for airlift to Big Sand. Made the decision to also replace the TA so the repair is going to be a little more involved than a simple split and clutch replacement.

The bad news is the border and travel north of the 53rd is still prohibited to non-essential people. Like me! 

The government will take another look in 30 days and advise if we can go in and get to work. I sure hope I can get to work on the ole girl before the snow flies. Only have about another month or two of what I consider warm weather. I've never enjoyed turning a wrench wearing gloves and three layers of clothes. Right now 20 hours of daylight comes in handy. Wish I could make use of it.

I will keep this post up to date as the situation develops. Thanks to everyone who has contributed and expressed their support.

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5000lb jacks would be fine.   Side crank w extendable legs preferred for ease of use.    I like VacDaddy's unit above, except I would maybe add some light angle iron for a triangle brace up to front frame rails since you plan to be on uneven terrain.   Obviously this would have to be loosened if you needed to adjust the jacks.

So.....does this lodge have a generator?   Does the tractor over provide a backup (PTO generator)?   if so--you need to fix an "essential service".....nah that could get dicey.....

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Doing the TA while you have it split is smart. There are some extra tools required for a TA job and varing opinion on counter shaft nut securing. Some people recommend welding it. Do you have a welder at Big Sand?

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One other thing....you will need a couple good jacks for the back.  And don't forget that when you slide off the center section, the rear section can tip backward....so needs to be supported front and rear

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8 hours ago, MarkG said:

Doing the TA while you have it split is smart. There are some extra tools required for a TA job and varing opinion on counter shaft nut securing. Some people recommend welding it. Do you have a welder at Big Sand?

Good grief, don't ever weld a countershaft!

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Jeff, Mark, Doctor

We run a 100kw stand alone diesel generator that supplies our power requirements. The tractor doesn't provide any PTO service. We have nothing that requires attachment to the PTO. We just have a draw bar, no three point hitch. We pull flat farm wagons for cargo, some with benches for people to sit. A rolling road packer, a sheep's foot, and drag screens for runway maintenance.

Yes, we have an old 50 amp stick welder. We also have oxy/acetylene outfit. There is only one place the welder can be plugged in for use. I have on my wish list a new wire feed welder and a small plasma cutter so they can be a little more mobile. But then I have a lot of things on my wish list.

Already purchased those jacks. Yup, side crank, extendable leg, weld on type. Knowing I would have to fabricate and weld on a proper mounting plate to be able to attach them to the tractor. Got lucky, Princess Auto had them on sale for half price. Also picked up some 8 inch steel castors for the feet. Guess I should also pick up a engine stand to hold the speed trans while I play around inside it.

Would like to hear more about any "special tools" like the 2 3/4  inch socket, that are required? Aside from just routine hand tools and the like. 

I take it there is some controversy on the proper method to lock/secure the bearing lock nut on the speed transmission counter-shaft if you can't achieve the required 300 ft/lbs torque spec? Is red lock-tight suitable to aid in this issue?

When I drained enough of the trans fluid last summer to replace the trans brake I only found pieces of the TA clutch disks and nothing else that caused alarm. Like gear teeth or metal shavings. In taking the additional steps to replace the TA I cannot express the apprehension I have about the unexpected condition of what I'm going to find inside.

Asked the community for any pics they had of the tractor and Larry sent me this one of when they got stuck in some quicksand a few years back. I wasn't around in those days and missed out on all the fun.

Tractor.jpg

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4 hours ago, Big Sand Lake Lodge said:

Jeff, Mark, Doctor

We run a 100kw stand alone diesel generator that supplies our power requirements. The tractor doesn't provide any PTO service. We have nothing that requires attachment to the PTO. We just have a draw bar, no three point hitch. We pull flat farm wagons for cargo, some with benches for people to sit. A rolling road packer, a sheep's foot, and drag screens for runway maintenance.

Yes, we have an old 50 amp stick welder. We also have oxy/acetylene outfit. There is only one place the welder can be plugged in for use. I have on my wish list a new wire feed welder and a small plasma cutter so they can be a little more mobile. But then I have a lot of things on my wish list.

Already purchased those jacks. Yup, side crank, extendable leg, weld on type. Knowing I would have to fabricate and weld on a proper mounting plate to be able to attach them to the tractor. Got lucky, Princess Auto had them on sale for half price. Also picked up some 8 inch steel castors for the feet. Guess I should also pick up a engine stand to hold the speed trans while I play around inside it.

Would like to hear more about any "special tools" like the 2 3/4  inch socket, that are required? Aside from just routine hand tools and the like. 

I take it there is some controversy on the proper method to lock/secure the bearing lock nut on the speed transmission counter-shaft if you can't achieve the required 300 ft/lbs torque spec? Is red lock-tight suitable to aid in this issue?

When I drained enough of the trans fluid last summer to replace the trans brake I only found pieces of the TA clutch disks and nothing else that caused alarm. Like gear teeth or metal shavings. In taking the additional steps to replace the TA I cannot express the apprehension I have about the unexpected condition of what I'm going to find inside.

Asked the community for any pics they had of the tractor and Larry sent me this one of when they got stuck in some quicksand a few years back. I wasn't around in those days and missed out on all the fun.

Tractor.jpg

Impact driver with Phillips but. The type you hit with hammer. The shifter fork screws are staked in the rods. Impact driver quickly loosens them.

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Thought you might be interested in my shop project I jus started today.  966 bad clutch & Ta.  Shift linkage needs attention also.

Here is a pic 

20200625_144815.jpg

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On 6/23/2020 at 1:12 PM, Big Sand Lake Lodge said:

I take it there is some controversy on the proper method to lock/secure the bearing lock nut on the speed transmission counter-shaft if you can't achieve the required 300 ft/lbs torque spec? Is red lock-tight suitable to aid in this issue?

It is retaining the locknut after achieving the 300ft/lbs...  Some tack weld the locknut to the countershaft threads.  On the ones I've done, I drilled a hole through the nut and countershaft (keeping chips from getting in bearing), pounded in a spring pin coated in red loctite, and then peened the ends of the pin over so that it can't come out.

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16 hours ago, ole 815 said:

Thought you might be interested in my shop project I jus started today.  966 bad clutch & Ta.  Shift linkage needs attention also.

Here is a pic 

20200625_144815.jpg

Yes, yes, yes. I am so interested. So interested that I might jump on the bike and knock on your shop door! You wouldn't be the guy that has a row of every model of Big Red parked along the road in front of his place would you?

Dang, I'm also very envious. Big beautiful out of the weather shop. Hard, smooth, level shop floor. Rolling gantry crane at the ready. No fair I cry,, no fair. Just kidding. You are blessed.

In a past life I used to work for a company that had their headquarters in Newton, IA.

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